Gan, Maldives to Chagos

Passages are not my favorite part of cruising. Too often it's a bad version of Snow White's dwarves: Sleepy, Grumpy, Queasy. For this trip, 2 new dwarves decided to join in: Squally and Lumpy (the seas). On the bright side, we had mostly decent winds, were visited by pods of hundreds of dolphins, and the boobies that took refuge on our boat at night generally behaved themselves (no crash landing or throwing up on our heads as has been reported by other boats).

We managed to just beat the setting sun and pull into the Salomon atoll during daylight after two and a half days of sailing with just a few hours of motor-sailing at the beginning and end. The ability to sail was a good thing because our starboard engine decided to overheat and develop a leak at the heat exchanger cap bolt, leaving it out of commission until we can figure out what's ailing it. Our last day was spent dodging squalls with the accompanying reefing and unreefing of sails (lather, rinse, repeat) but we averaged 7 to 9 knots of boat speed. At the end, we were rewarded by the welcome sight of the lush Chagos isles, tiny fish jumping like popcorn, and a much anticipated good night's rest. We happily fell asleep to the sound of rain that we didn't have to sail through.

The next day, we stopped by to say hi to Time Bandit, who had gotten there a couple weeks earlier, and then went off to try our luck at trolling a lure from the dinghy. About two minutes in, we had hooked a little tunny. The cruisers who raved about the fishing were not exaggerating. One of the resident black-tip sharks happily gobbled up the remains after we filleted our catch.

To Chagos and beyond

 

And, just like that (it seems), our three months in the Maldives is over and we head for Chagos. The weather and wind predictions are about as good as we can expect for this leg of our journey. We will probably have to motor at the beginning, until our wind fills in, and there may be some squalls. But we will be happy if we get some wind and not too many squalls.

One last turtle shot (our anchorage is lousy with them)

We will be off the grid for up to four weeks in Chagos (only email through our satellite phone) and then for another two weeks or so to get to and into the Seychelles. This will be the longest time that we have been without access to any shopping (our Pacific crossing was only 20 days!), so we are packed to the brim with food and fuel. Because most of the inhabitants were 'relocated', Chagos is a relatively untouched marine sanctuary that very few people get to visit. We'll try to do a blog update at some point through our sat phone email, but with technology being involved, we can't make any promises.

Hunt for the Wilderchildren

 

Notice: Google has notified us that our email subscription service is ending in July and users will no longer receive automated notifications when we post a new blog entry. Bear with us as we try to figure out what we need to do.

If you haven't seen The Hunt for the Wilderpeople, I highly recommend it. This photo above is a shot from our own 'private' island (occasionally visited by locals but not since the start of Ramazan). Conrad is expressing himself using found objects, a.k.a. garbage, of which there is plenty unfortunately.

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We have been enjoying the calm waters and lack of mosquitoes here (a huge plus!) before we make our final push south for Gan, our last destination in the Maldives. We want to time our departure from the Maldives to maximize our Chagos permit, which begins on May 1. Hopefully the weather will cooperate.

 

Wahoo revenge souvenir of five stitches

Matt's stitches have healed up and he has been able to get into the water again. The snorkeling and fishing here has been good and the coral is in relatively good condition compared to some of our stops up north.

We have seen some huge schools of parrot fish here

As Javerne and Marsouin have moved ahead, we finally met up with Paul and Chris on Georgia. We knew they were here in the Maldives, but had always been just in front of them as we have moved south. We haven't seen them since Tonga. It's been nice to catch up and reminisce. We all did a little beach clean-up and have seen some beautiful sunsets.

In case you were wondering, boat work continues to call. Matt had to replace a sheared off bolt (a bell housing, engine mount bolt in case you were wondering--yeah, I didn't think so), which is one of the boat jobs that sounds simple but takes multiple days, with much swearing and sweating. In the end, you have that feeling of accomplishment that you get from working hours on something, even though you only ended up where you were before the thing broke in the first place.

I don't care what anyone says, we love the Maldives

 

Auto-color in Photoshop gave this a weird look, but it's better than the original, washed out underwater camera coloring.

Before we got to the Maldives, the few recent reports we read were not particularly positive. 'It's expensive.' 'The coral is dead.' 'You can't go where you want.' Of course, the most recent reports were from cruising friends and acquaintances that were here in 2020, which was a bad time for everyone. 

Dolphins! Photo credit: Michel Luthi of Javerne

 

Likewise, Coronavirus made our visit to Sri Lanka much different than it would otherwise have been. After being personally confined to Galle Port for over four months, having Perry's new paint job ruined by the concrete wall, and being in Galle for ten months longer than we had planned, we probably don't have the fondest possible memories of Sri Lanka, either (but we still liked it overall!).

Another great shot from Javerne.

Maybe that backdrop is the reason we love the Maldives so much. Or maybe it's the white sand beaches, clear water, and tons of fish, rays, sharks, turtles, and dolphins. It's true that most of the coral is dead and that we can't go to most of the inhabited islands, but we're having a great time anyway. Matt's been re-honing his pole-spear fishing skills. Even though his preferred spear tip rusted through and he's been using one that doesn't hold onto the speared fish quite as well, we've been well fed with fresh fish. 

We spent a week in Hulhumale and Male to stock up on fresh provisions and other sundries and wait for a package. One of my least favorite parts of cruising is waiting for boat parts in remote places. And Hulhumale is not where we would choose to spend a lot of time. It's a nice enough city/island but the anchorage is hectic and the water is dirty (it was amazing how much growth was our bottom after just a week). We finally got our package (it took over a month to get here, but we consider ourselves lucky). Of course, Matt installed the new part and it had an issue and didn't work. Good thing our old one still mostly works.
 

This octopus reminded us of those martians/aliens on Sesame Street

We high-tailed it out of the big city as soon as we could and are enjoying snorkeling and swimming again. Our friends Michel and Corinne on Javerne got some great shots of the hundreds of dolphins that frequent our current anchorage and give it the nickname 'Dolphin Anchorage' (also, it's easier to remember than 'Mahaanahuraa').  We enjoyed swimming with them and were able to get much closer (10-15 feet) than normal--probably due to the fact that they are used to the dozens of boats a day that bring tourists to see them up close.

We happened across the octopus pictured above on one of our snorkeling outings.  He was very curious and we got some good video of it here. Octopus seems to be a very popular meal for local fishermen and cruisers alike. Their inquisitive nature (the octopuses, not the people) is probably not helping them in the not-getting-killed department. After seeing My Octopus Teacher, we don't really feel like eating them, much less killing them.

Mark took a picture of this Titan Triggerfish under Perry

 

We have a lot of ground to cover to get to Gan in time to check out and position ourselves for our passage to Chagos (our permit begins May 1 and we don't want to waste any of our allotted four weeks). So we keep moving south, swimming the reefs as we go. If you have ever found yourself wondering what we do all day, boat repair and maintenance are still high on the list (the other day Matt realigned the port engine and replaced a switch for our water maker). It's not all sunshine and the-ocean-is-our-aquarium, but we're not complaining.

$30 in a restaurant...

 

The dodgy pier at the abandoned resort at Dholhiyadhoo

Sometimes we play a game at dinner where we say how much we think our entree would cost if we bought it in a restaurant in the States (have I mentioned that we don't have a TV?). Yesterday, Matt made a lobster risotto and we threw out some numbers, then settled on 'Market Price' because of the lobster. It was good but could have benefited from some white wine.

The over-water accommodations are now more 'in-water'

We have been having either fish or lobster (with squid thrown in every so often) almost every day since we arrived in the Maldives: grilled fish, pan-fried fish, grilled lobster, fish and chips, sushi (wahoo and tempura calamari), sweet and sour fish, fish dumplings, fish salad, fish chowder (New England and Manhattan styles), udon noodle soup with fish stock, fish tacos, ceviche, you name it. Between the two wahoo that we caught trolling a lure and the fish and lobster that Matt has speared, we are flush with fish. The kids keep asking for plain old pasta with marinara sauce for dinner (and we did make pizza once), but we're making hay while the fish sun is shining.

  

Due to the COVID restrictions in place in the Maldives, we have only been to uninhabited islands (except the abandoned resort that houses two caretakers), which has suited us just fine. We have occupied ourselves with swimming and snorkeling. Every now and then a fishing boat comes close enough to wave or shout a greeting (one even gave us a lobster). Sometimes the uninhabited islands get visits from resort boats bringing guests who want a 'private island' experience. We have been lucky enough to spend some time with a couple other cruising boats, but here in the Maldives the cruising boats seem to spread out among the sprawling atolls.

 

Matt going shopping for dinner

We will keep making our way south and hope to stop at an island where we will reportedly be allowed to get some fresh produce, which we're getting low on. Pie with canned peaches and fresh whipped cream will have to do as our fruit for now. In addition to fish-filled water and idyllic islands, the Maldives offers decent cell reception. Even when anchored in what looks like the middle of nowhere, we have been able to get at least some Internet reception.

 

Just a couple of the many, many fish here

Perry anchored near sand-covered Hurasfaruhuraa. (Definitely a Barbara Walters soft-focus effect and NOT a scratched, fogged up lens.) 

Death of a Sailboat (don't worry--not ours)

Sachiyo looking like she's seen better days.
But this was the best we ever saw her.

This is a post we wrote awhile back but never published. We're still enjoying the Maldives. Yesterday Matt and the boys swam with dolphins (well, 'with' might be overstating things since the dolphins were just going about their business, but they didn't swim away).

 

We spent over four months with a view of this steel sailboat from our spot on the opposite wall in Galle Harbor. Apparently, she sailed from India to Sri Lanka years ago (the stories range from 5 to 10 years). 

She didn't have an inboard engine, but tried to leave Sri Lanka with a small outboard.  After the engine died and the boat was damaged in a storm, it was towed back to the port and tied up. The owner went away and the years went by.

Broken mast from all the banging the day
before and dangerously low in the water.

After banging against the wall without fenders for years and suffering from total neglect, the boat had missing port lights and rusted out holes on the deck.  Every few weeks the cheap dock lines would chafe through and she would pinwheel forward, usually bouncing off the work boat parked just in from of her. The coach house roof had holes and the boat  would would take on water and gradually sink lower in the sea. It had no bilge pumps, so the local agent would organize regular pump-outs every few weeks to keep her floating. 

 

Heavier and more frequent rains from the southwest monsoon season had her sinking lower and lower. It's uncertain if the violent surge from the day before cracked something that started a leak, or if it was just the accumulated rains, but one morning she was riding so low in the water that we alerted the local agent. Unfortunately, the pump out didn't make it in time.

This guy went on the boat to bail, but his
added weight only made it worse...

 

Uh, oh...

Glug, glug, glug. After a few days of work by divers, the boat was winched back towards the shore so it could be lifted out by a crane.

Up she comes...

Her resting place for a few months

Some of her remains after 'disassembly'

Galle, Sri Lanka to Uligan, Maldives

Look! A sail!

We made it to the Maldives, a year behind schedule. As we were checking out of Sri Lanka, our agent gave us our port clearance document and said, 'You're going to the Maldives so it's very important that you have this because they're all Muslim there.' We're still scratching our heads over that one (for the record, just about every place you go wants a clearance document from your last port). 

Handy AND stylish propane carry-all

After several weeks of final preparations and provisioning, we tossed off the (by now well-worn) dock lines and were pleased to find that the boat still moved and the props still spun. We moved to the anchorage at Jungle Beach and scraped off most of the jungle that had taken root on the boat bottom. Despite having sat in some pretty fecund water for almost a year, we thought the Coppercoat served us well. It wasn't perfect, but it wasn't as bad as we had envisioned. There were large areas where there was nothing but easily removed green slime. But there were some patches of hard growth (and consequently also the furry stuff that then grows on that), although most of the barnacles, oysters, and other stuff came off easily with a scraper. The displaced shrimp and crabs living in the ecosystem indicated their displeasure by munching on any morsels of exposed skin they could find. The barnacles also exacted some measure of revenge as we all exited the water with varying degrees of scraped knuckles and sliced fingers.

Perry's pre-scraped bottom on the worse-off port side.

The following morning, we left and motored for several hours before escaping the Sri Lankan wind shadow. The forecast predicted 15-knot winds and meter-high waves. Instead, we got 20+ knots of wind and waves that built to over two meters. It was also supposed to be a reaching to downwind run. However, at times we were sailing almost as close to the wind as we can. We had 2 reefs in to slow us down from over 9 knots of boat speed. It was a pretty bumpy and wet ride for our first time out in over ten months. We also faced a lot of shipping traffic as we crossed the busy lanes of all the ships rounding the bottom of Sri Lanka. By the time nighttime fell, there was still no end to the AIS alarms warning us about approaching traffic.

At one point, we were trying to negotiate our way around a 20+ miles-long fishing net that had at least four AIS transponders of its own (the fishing vessel didn't respond to our hail so we couldn't ask how deep the net was or how far beyond the last transponder it continued). We would get to what we thought was the last marker and another one would pop up (and we had to keep sailing closer and closer to the wind). While this was going on, we noticed a different beeping noise than the AIS alarms or the high wind alarms that had been going off up to this point. It turned out to be the bilge high-water alarm. The port bilge had an alarming amount of water (ok, probably only 10 gallons or so, but it was still sloshing around more than we had seen before). Fortunately the water was not as high as the freezer compressor in that area, but it was disappointing that the 'automatic' bilge pump decided it didn't want to be automatic anymore.

Fortunately, we caught it in time and were able to drain the water with the pump (it still worked manually). We added the task of pumping out the water every couple of hours to our to do list until the next day when Matt figured out that the water was coming in through the very hose that was connected to the bilge pump, as the waves would force water into the thru-hull fitting and hose, which would then flow back into the bilge. We closed the valve to the thru-hull and the problem stopped.  The usual solution to this problem is to have a tall loop of bilge hosing installed above the thru-hull that acts as a barrier to any waves that push water in. This thru hull is installed below the sink area and the countertop prevents a high enough loop from being installed (hence the installed valve). You learn something everyday...

The conditions were much the same the next day, except that the big ships had disappeared and nothing more broke. After a stressful day and a noisy, unrestful night, we were not feeling our best the next day. Two of us got sick (I don't want to name names but their names start with the same letter and it wasn't Conrad or me) and nobody felt like eating much. The one good thing was that we were making great speed, aided by a favorable current of up to 2+ knots at times.

Black skies, boo.  Blue water, yay!

 

Finally, on our last full day, things calmed down (which also meant slower going) and we saw lots of spinner dolphins. The next morning, as we approached the island of Uligan or Uligamu (there are multiple names for the many islands here), we were welcomed with a nice rain that washed away the salt covering Perry's decks.

We don't have to sail anymore AND presents?!

 

Our agent Assad brought the officials out (and gave us ice-cream and treats for the boys). Check in was a breeze... Of course, we did have that port clearance document. The officials checked our temperatures and requested that only Matt come out to the cockpit to complete the documentation. We can visit uninhabited islands and it might be possible to go to some inhabited islands with advance permission. We can also have produce and other supplies delivered in some spots. Fortunately, we stocked up in Sri Lanka and, fresh fruit and veggies aside, can easily wait until Male, where we are allowed ashore.

What's better than this for a kid? Nothing! (say ZERO out of 5 dentists)

There were three other cruising boats in the Uligan anchorage, two of whom we had met during our time at Pangkor. It was nice to have some company after being isolated for so long. We had our first cruiser social sundowners in almost a year.

We have also been enjoying clean water and abundant fish. While we were snorkeling today, a manta ray (really a devil ray we think) swam by and we saw a turtle and two stingrays. Matt speared his first fish (a medium-sized grouper). One of the other boats even got to swim with a dolphin for a spell. Matt has been busy fixing what's broke, including MacGyvering a fix to our water maker boost pump (using thread and tape to keep the motor brushes in place while reassembling the pump). Once we have rested and enjoyed this area, we will start heading south.

By the way, one of our containers of preserved eggs must have had a bad egg that spoiled the whole batch. The first couple days of our voyage was scented by rotten eggs. We finally felt up to the task of throwing them away on our third full day. The other container is still there and seems okay for now but I don't think we'll preserve eggs this way again.