tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13388629630769573892024-03-13T10:10:33.982-05:00s/v PerryThis is our sailing blog. There are many blogs like it, but this one is ours.SV Perryhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16973086223410951684noreply@blogger.comBlogger388125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1338862963076957389.post-31940190590284103862022-07-30T08:17:00.002-05:002022-07-30T08:17:30.585-05:00Eek--We sold our boat<p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"></span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjndgHlbr3aGpsRwTFR7kGbcSeHMWA1PtMextTphc4tjvx7xh8yT-1mZebsCgN4nhZm_VHrfr5K6qUBaCyBrfMWCh6iXgda1yMrdbgsMl2X_eqE2WFsoid7DR7k1VNXhyDMnvA-a7xaD4_BdHbAeeNHcAFIPFwZOmbsph6Jb1R80xZnLpu7k2O9VnU7/s3240/Perry%20crew%20then%20and%20now.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2015" data-original-width="3240" height="398" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjndgHlbr3aGpsRwTFR7kGbcSeHMWA1PtMextTphc4tjvx7xh8yT-1mZebsCgN4nhZm_VHrfr5K6qUBaCyBrfMWCh6iXgda1yMrdbgsMl2X_eqE2WFsoid7DR7k1VNXhyDMnvA-a7xaD4_BdHbAeeNHcAFIPFwZOmbsph6Jb1R80xZnLpu7k2O9VnU7/w640-h398/Perry%20crew%20then%20and%20now.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"> </span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">It's official--we have sold <i>Perry</i>. She now belongs to another family that plans to live aboard and cruise. We have mixed emotions about leaving our traveling home of nearly a decade. We have had unforgettable experiences and made lifelong friendships.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Land life is pulling us back in. We bought a car and the kids are enrolled in school for the Fall season (speaking of which, since when did the school year start so early?!). We're excited to spend time with family and friends that we haven't seen in forever and less excited to be stuck in traffic and shovel snow. Be well and we hope to see and hear from you down the line.<br /></span></span></p>SV Perryhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16973086223410951684noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1338862963076957389.post-90667615590492437572022-06-07T08:00:00.006-05:002022-06-07T10:21:09.312-05:00Back on familiar ground<p> </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim85T1W7IuR8PSgTJrrTG2SzKRzOeN1lsSO-_tn2q_5urb7YGkA9VQJdthQPl5PYuUKdye4j8MKjF6HU91QKNXsxLK-fdQQNYTSnuhOScilzo5hR5o6WfGc67Ic3VDpcoTlZQkK-7A-eucfUrdzGNiTvRd2MZ0iJjDj8FMZaKumtFyyUkQgfJLmGn4/s4128/Charlotte%20Amalie%20anchorage.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2322" data-original-width="4128" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim85T1W7IuR8PSgTJrrTG2SzKRzOeN1lsSO-_tn2q_5urb7YGkA9VQJdthQPl5PYuUKdye4j8MKjF6HU91QKNXsxLK-fdQQNYTSnuhOScilzo5hR5o6WfGc67Ic3VDpcoTlZQkK-7A-eucfUrdzGNiTvRd2MZ0iJjDj8FMZaKumtFyyUkQgfJLmGn4/w640-h360/Charlotte%20Amalie%20anchorage.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-size: small;">Charter boat central - Charlotte Amalie, St. Thomas</span><br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">It seems weird to be around so many Americans.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span></span></span></span></p><a name='more'></a><span style="font-size: medium;"> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWbrn5k3K-qmDLONxldhzy9riLro5eGjKyOc0kOEUB_n4lWJbtgPwP4-alXMlRlxSuN8d0bBedjeBXPUc_qBgVBIsXmMKFNGuNRfiQPYnXfL6UYlCuN2Jg0CV18aUS1GLUUp65tZZUAOq2f_-VQH8oGzrcSdSSIrMjR3Wax84qMM5MleEQU1wo1I5o/s4128/Researcher%20with%20leatherback%20turtle.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2322" data-original-width="4128" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWbrn5k3K-qmDLONxldhzy9riLro5eGjKyOc0kOEUB_n4lWJbtgPwP4-alXMlRlxSuN8d0bBedjeBXPUc_qBgVBIsXmMKFNGuNRfiQPYnXfL6UYlCuN2Jg0CV18aUS1GLUUp65tZZUAOq2f_-VQH8oGzrcSdSSIrMjR3Wax84qMM5MleEQU1wo1I5o/w640-h360/Researcher%20with%20leatherback%20turtle.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">From our leather back turtle egg laying trip back in Grenada (we haven't taken many pictures lately). This was the smaller but better lit of the two turtles we saw.</span></span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">The U.S. Virgin Islands has a lot of Americans, for obvious reasons. If anyone here were to ask us where we were from, they would mean which city, not which country. But no one has--maybe because as soon as they hear us speak, they know we're American.<br /></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Normally, the most common question we get on our travels is, 'Where are you from?' And being from the U.S. has usually garnered at least a little interest in places like The Solomon Islands, Papua New Guinea, Southeast Asia, and South Africa. Once we left the Caribbean, the nationalities of our fellow cruisers got a lot more diverse.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Now that we're back on this side of the world, we're just one of the crowd. And the U.S. Virgin Islands is the U.S. There are multiple McDonald's here in <a href="https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwiXlYyXkpr4AhX3SjABHRQ1CxUQwqsBegQIBRAB&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3D39uoolmtjSA&usg=AOvVaw0cYSDMKs7PDfvNWQJVt1TU" target="_blank">St. Thomas</a>. There are K-marts, Wendy's, Pizza Hut and Home Depot. It's the same, but different (they drive on the left side of the road in left-hand drive cars, McDonald's doesn't have soft serve cones, and you can hear a Caribbean lilt in a lot of voices).<br /></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"></span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDuRjqABqGGRYUByZg1jPzpekOK31IUIYzRBMLgsPOBrZ_GXfuKuOfK4avd40XxgnVNtKMb_26JrVsDm4eYc8GT4EY7JIoosgrdMAlUwh-3atxF_JzcQK8yu6U8fe_JRcLh_tfvcCqZYCE_1MJo6I9NTOc_y5scSy0hbM8ko1LkqqhE1p1jSxT-15r/s2580/Leatherback%20turtle.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1818" data-original-width="2580" height="450" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDuRjqABqGGRYUByZg1jPzpekOK31IUIYzRBMLgsPOBrZ_GXfuKuOfK4avd40XxgnVNtKMb_26JrVsDm4eYc8GT4EY7JIoosgrdMAlUwh-3atxF_JzcQK8yu6U8fe_JRcLh_tfvcCqZYCE_1MJo6I9NTOc_y5scSy0hbM8ko1LkqqhE1p1jSxT-15r/w640-h450/Leatherback%20turtle.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">The red light supposedly doesn't disturb the turtles as much as white light.</span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"> </span></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We're here waiting for the effects of tropical storm <a href="https://www.orlandosentinel.com/weather/hurricane/os-ne-tropical-storm-alex-sunday-update-20220606-evqxv3r3pnekrggvorte6vnroy-story.html" target="_blank">Alex</a> to pass. The storm itself is long gone but it took with it our wind and we have been waiting for it to come back before leaving to head to Florida.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We picked up the mainsail <a href="https://www.northsails.com/sailing/en/2021/06/full-batten-vs-standard-cruising-mainsails" target="_blank">battens</a> that a cruiser on one of the Caribbean Facebook pages was giving away. Our friends Paul and Chris on <i><a href="http://svjeorgia.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">Georgia</a></i> were kind enough to pick them up for us, since they had just gotten to <a href="https://www.svperry.com/2014/05/st-john-us-virgin-islands.html" target="_blank">St. John</a> as the batten gifter was leaving. When we were delayed in Trinidad and then Grenada, Paul and Chris had to leave and found a sailor in St. John to hold them for us until our arrival. We picked up the battens and the longer one fit almost perfectly. It was the kind of coincidence that leaves you worried that you have used up all your luck and will pay for it at some point. But we're not <a href="https://www.oddgodfrey.com/oddlog/thepostmodernsuperstitioussailor" target="_blank">superstitious</a> (<a href="https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwiXlYyXkpr4AhX3SjABHRQ1CxUQwqsBegQIBRAB&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3D39uoolmtjSA&usg=AOvVaw0cYSDMKs7PDfvNWQJVt1TU" target="_blank">just a little 'stitious'</a>).</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"></span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9qCMcu_xFrynREYkAkOX9thIDGPmEBsZH1LiPPic5e31ay6NZTjzCNM07VNsObqnhaiknnPoBfoplkQav5kKDizpEboKOKwZljOXebIv25ThFXx09gZpayXgSaWHhz8VEElz4IrszCVO2vSCsGbTjpWjpWwbNLOJVeJ8GfdzPoQMfax7d8bzHDZcJ/s1656/Leatherback%20turtle%20being%20measured.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1076" data-original-width="1656" height="416" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9qCMcu_xFrynREYkAkOX9thIDGPmEBsZH1LiPPic5e31ay6NZTjzCNM07VNsObqnhaiknnPoBfoplkQav5kKDizpEboKOKwZljOXebIv25ThFXx09gZpayXgSaWHhz8VEElz4IrszCVO2vSCsGbTjpWjpWwbNLOJVeJ8GfdzPoQMfax7d8bzHDZcJ/w640-h416/Leatherback%20turtle%20being%20measured.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Researchers measuring the 'smaller' turtle. One of the volunteers was told to put her hand under the eggs as they came out of the turtle so she could count them.</span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"> </span></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We were able to catch up with our friends Tim and Steph, who also own a Privilege catamaran, but were in St. Thomas about to run a charter on a beautiful <a href="https://www.sailmagazine.com/boats/boat-review-fountaine-pajot-victoria-67" target="_blank">Fountaine-Pajot Victoria</a>. It's the kind of boat that makes it hard to come back to your own modest vessel without feeling that you're actually living in squalor. We last saw them eight years ago in Grenada and even though our paths have been different, it felt as if nothing had changed.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We haven't seen any cruise ships since we arrived, but that is about to change. Three cruise ships are scheduled to arrive in Charlotte Amalie within the next couple of days. We don't know how full the ships will be, but when we were here eight years ago, the town changed drastically when the passengers descended. They're the bread and butter of the area and sorely needed.</span></span><br /></p>SV Perryhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16973086223410951684noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1338862963076957389.post-90140678272433670552022-05-19T19:15:00.005-05:002022-05-22T11:55:58.561-05:00Around the world in 2869 days<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicGTunw8Lx1LnyFYjTgXSGkQN6lgP8T0KOg82JueyY_TgBpoaYCHIGUs_dTJ5v26bTLbRXy41LoaBgajMT6AXI4-q0r9WG_vbH3S77ioDPqL5RVwUFpK4ZWF8_3okxQLIvJ4uKYjBBhvw99NssZVKjLhRxTRKYA0ni0Bme1GgJXgxdGvPz7nKhGeej/s2576/Group%20shot.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2576" data-original-width="1932" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicGTunw8Lx1LnyFYjTgXSGkQN6lgP8T0KOg82JueyY_TgBpoaYCHIGUs_dTJ5v26bTLbRXy41LoaBgajMT6AXI4-q0r9WG_vbH3S77ioDPqL5RVwUFpK4ZWF8_3okxQLIvJ4uKYjBBhvw99NssZVKjLhRxTRKYA0ni0Bme1GgJXgxdGvPz7nKhGeej/w480-h640/Group%20shot.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">It's a bit less dramatic than going around the world in 80 days, but we made it to Grenada, closing the loop on our circumnavigation. We left Prickly Bay in August 2014 and have returned after almost 8 years.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span></span></span></span></p><a name='more'></a><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"> <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj75lJjPH3lWEJc7eHpjkkOpM51cthAP3eo6Eo9es_SHxdOIgnEgGY1E0H8uRQ608DnxHwI1RQXokDIXyEd79DTOFs5wxcipURv3gjLjvgDPgLdgsov-zNaaNeGYEHD1BJn15t_frlbzSt-_5IuwqW1tFo6cg_Z5fmQzHjaBtLKvvHUsZrgx6K2gSgQ/s4128/Flags.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4128" data-original-width="2322" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj75lJjPH3lWEJc7eHpjkkOpM51cthAP3eo6Eo9es_SHxdOIgnEgGY1E0H8uRQ608DnxHwI1RQXokDIXyEd79DTOFs5wxcipURv3gjLjvgDPgLdgsov-zNaaNeGYEHD1BJn15t_frlbzSt-_5IuwqW1tFo6cg_Z5fmQzHjaBtLKvvHUsZrgx6K2gSgQ/w360-h640/Flags.jpg" width="360" /></a></div><br /></span></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Our goal wasn't necessarily to go around the world, but now that we're here it seems like something to celebrate. We toasted the event with a bottle of <a href="https://www.svperry.com/2022/01/we-love-cape-town-but-should-we.html" target="_blank">Pierre Jourdan</a> champagne from our visit to the farms near Cape Town. We have traveled 46,000 miles, visiting 46 countries and enjoying countless experiences and friendships. We loved Grenada during our first visit, so we're happy to close the loop here. It feels like all our old friends from back then should still be here.<br /></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We traveled overnight from Trinidad to allow us enough time to arrive in Prickly Bay during the day. Also, the few 'pirate' incidents that have occurred during this leg was during daylight hours. Our trip was mostly uneventful, though the wind and favorable current that had us ripping along at over 8 knots died to under 2 knots overnight. We got impatient and ended up motoring the last few hours. As a consolation, we did catch a mahi-mahi. <br /></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"></span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6lezZ2Z1lsBp4dqA1lWFsBdQ-6Qm4jhBLDun4e1lk_iVXE3E5VcU4zqMmjqLAPuFp7mVn0zpBU3pG6HvrVzQUKfqCU6p9A4TzJAqjomo7lbT0XmCR8cJDsu85k5sUlWksP4gn9RUYSIvGKrttfHcKm0vYLZmCCC7ICX3lLR6ZdGDIRqMbdjyEuLOZ/s4128/Bamboo%20cathedral.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1662" data-original-width="4128" height="258" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6lezZ2Z1lsBp4dqA1lWFsBdQ-6Qm4jhBLDun4e1lk_iVXE3E5VcU4zqMmjqLAPuFp7mVn0zpBU3pG6HvrVzQUKfqCU6p9A4TzJAqjomo7lbT0XmCR8cJDsu85k5sUlWksP4gn9RUYSIvGKrttfHcKm0vYLZmCCC7ICX3lLR6ZdGDIRqMbdjyEuLOZ/w640-h258/Bamboo%20cathedral.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-size: small;">The bamboo cathedral in Chaguaramas, Trinidad</span></span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><br /> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgakCobfnejQhheNdF_duDea0vhLDgRdrgcW4aS-sS5UrmB-5wKg3srYsG0UhiERZfp3_VAUwfyBuSPkhwYNf8N7QWi9KDgcBu598j1uu8bKviyS01ZNqWmQaaOOtZQ4CRy_9X9ODGNUavKVCF4cMf4YPxO-6MpOysoOusM2-6UHMX9s5uWvTihC3Di/s4128/Radar.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2322" data-original-width="4128" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgakCobfnejQhheNdF_duDea0vhLDgRdrgcW4aS-sS5UrmB-5wKg3srYsG0UhiERZfp3_VAUwfyBuSPkhwYNf8N7QWi9KDgcBu598j1uu8bKviyS01ZNqWmQaaOOtZQ4CRy_9X9ODGNUavKVCF4cMf4YPxO-6MpOysoOusM2-6UHMX9s5uWvTihC3Di/w640-h360/Radar.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">An old radar installation on the bamboo cathedral hike</span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /></span></span><span style="font-family: verdana; font-size: medium;">We will be here a few days to have our life raft re-certified. What, you say? We should maybe have done that before the 5800 nautical miles spent crossing the Atlantic ocean? You may have a point, my friend. But what's done is done. </span><p></p><p><span style="font-family: verdana; font-size: medium;">Also on the to-do list while we are in Grenada is to <a href="https://www.svperry.com/2014/08/sometimes-dull-moment.html" target="_blank">win some more livestock</a> if Bingo Night at the Prickly Bay Marina is still going on.</span></p><p><span style="font-family: verdana; font-size: medium;">What with coming back to Grenada and <a href="http://www.svperry.com/p/perry-for-sale.html" target="_blank">posting our boat for sale</a>, I've been hit with a bout of nostalgia. I stumbled upon <a href="https://www.svperry.com/search?q=tour+de+boat" target="_blank">this post </a>with a video tour of the boat conducted by the boys when they were just wee little guys. <i>Perry</i> looks a bit different these days with different upholstery and no more 'goldfish/hand logo' on her hull and the boys are all grown up. Hopefully they will look back as fondly as I do upon this last decade aboard spent exploring a few corners of the world.</span><br /></p>SV Perryhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16973086223410951684noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1338862963076957389.post-79678510795636711962022-05-16T12:40:00.002-05:002022-05-16T12:40:58.696-05:00The end is near<p> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRSUWzw96YZINp8HSuaBDeZ6mHGbDFxsIWUYec5fKIBz02iuerp68Nungum_dMHY3uZmo8Aiv3PZoMamR5mzN33_PdRXIHC6pcS59XfA-hhROYSNa48k2OUh1D08eiYyW064SvrmRzKl1bozR4Ox6w8c88DcrNtrz1C9edfkh8YqEJIUygz5Cz2qCT/s4608/Perry%20sailing%20port%20fw%20quarter_small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4608" data-original-width="3456" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRSUWzw96YZINp8HSuaBDeZ6mHGbDFxsIWUYec5fKIBz02iuerp68Nungum_dMHY3uZmo8Aiv3PZoMamR5mzN33_PdRXIHC6pcS59XfA-hhROYSNa48k2OUh1D08eiYyW064SvrmRzKl1bozR4Ox6w8c88DcrNtrz1C9edfkh8YqEJIUygz5Cz2qCT/w480-h640/Perry%20sailing%20port%20fw%20quarter_small.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Photo courtesy of Michel Luthi on <i>Javerne</i>.<br /></span></span></td></tr></tbody></table></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><i>Perry</i> is headed back into the water this afternoon and we will start our way up the Caribbean this week. We haven't seen much of Trinidad because we have been so focused on boat work. We have tried <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Doubles_(food)" target="_blank">doubles</a> I'm a fan but the rest of the crew isn't into savory and spicy breakfast.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span></span></span></span></p><a name='more'></a><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We're getting close to the end of our almost ten year adventure and we have mixed feelings about moving from the boat back onto land. We're putting Perry on the market before we get back to the U.S. Here's <a href="https://www.svperry.com/p/perry-for-sale.html" target="_blank">the listing</a> if you or anyone you know is in the market for a boat. </span></span><br /><p></p>SV Perryhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16973086223410951684noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1338862963076957389.post-16094555131283043782022-04-23T08:00:00.093-05:002022-04-23T20:05:47.683-05:00Our Atlantic crossing<p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"></span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvfTcRpLhbRy7GjNj-zYcny4_XKVvl5-1i6wcBSJaYTTE81ZO1GKvjahKO7Au671UG7dlDNFGkVk5aPe-FAZbwCdU65fK15DIvGMNARXp1qNKFhqqLwV0KXr1CaeBWdFptrfxmCZh_WIgstazC5i9WA_KEeygCZjMxE01aNmT8bULjhrVtaDwLrmI3/s751/Atlantic%20crossing.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="505" data-original-width="751" height="430" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvfTcRpLhbRy7GjNj-zYcny4_XKVvl5-1i6wcBSJaYTTE81ZO1GKvjahKO7Au671UG7dlDNFGkVk5aPe-FAZbwCdU65fK15DIvGMNARXp1qNKFhqqLwV0KXr1CaeBWdFptrfxmCZh_WIgstazC5i9WA_KEeygCZjMxE01aNmT8bULjhrVtaDwLrmI3/w640-h430/Atlantic%20crossing.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">The trip seems so short on paper</span><br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><br /></span></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We have completed our Atlantic crossing and again have decent Internet access and a little bit of time and energy. I write this from <i>Perry </i>on the hardstand at <a href="http://www.peakeyachts.com" target="_blank">Peake Yacht Services</a> in Chaguaramas, Trinidad. We're here to fix the hull paint that was damaged in <a href="https://www.svperry.com/2020/12/this-is-what-passes-for-excitement.html" target="_blank">Galle</a> (by the way, the ferry that we saw in Galle on its delivery voyage is here in Chaguaramas), change our <a href="https://www.followingseas.media/blog/2017/1/30/name-that-bearing-1" target="_blank">cutlass bearings</a>, and a few other projects.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span></span></span></span></p><a name='more'></a><span style="font-size: medium;"> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6bc6yAilLU-Zq5HrrF32azUixnnfDPvCRLY2kl8P9baD8gPC5HmyVWLGpq7lUiwNc_SHbLpEKEZ_lLNOWbXmkrXEK1oOLJkO8NaU4xEE_XKKX5t8Tho2NTwi78eDsbN3n72S42Rul148XPEUhwdYLULVSb6j1YJn4ZTPRNVellIuQoFRLAXDbXH0_/s3816/Fernando%20Peak%20Hill%20and%20beach.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2304" data-original-width="3816" height="386" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6bc6yAilLU-Zq5HrrF32azUixnnfDPvCRLY2kl8P9baD8gPC5HmyVWLGpq7lUiwNc_SHbLpEKEZ_lLNOWbXmkrXEK1oOLJkO8NaU4xEE_XKKX5t8Tho2NTwi78eDsbN3n72S42Rul148XPEUhwdYLULVSb6j1YJn4ZTPRNVellIuQoFRLAXDbXH0_/w640-h386/Fernando%20Peak%20Hill%20and%20beach.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Morro do Pico (Peak Hill) in Fernando de Noronha, Brazil<br /></span></span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">I have added pictures to the <a href="https://www.svperry.com/2022/03/goodbye-st-helena.html " target="_blank">blog entry about St. Helena</a> that was made from our satellite email, originally with text only.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">After we left St. Helena, we made a 13-day passage (1804 nm) to Fernando de Noronha, Brazil. It was the second longest passage we have ever made. We were very happy to have satellite email updates from family and friends along the way because it turns out that being stuck on a boat for almost two weeks without very good sleep can get tedious. </span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">On the plus side, after a slow start, we had decent wind for most of the trip. The constant squalls kept us on our toes and required frequent sail changes, but at least we were sailing. We motored for about 11 hours on the last day, as our wind disappeared.<br /></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Fernando de Noronha is kind of a mini-Hawaii for Brazilians. The scantily-clad, mostly Brazilian tourists were a far cry from the conservatively dressed crowd we have become accustomed to over the years. The Brazilian <a href="https://www.byrdie.com/brazilian-wax-4844209" target="_blank">Brazilians</a> were on prominent display with rear-end photo ops being the local twist on selfies. The main activities in Fernando de Noronha (besides seeing and being seen) are spending time at the beach, snorkeling, diving, and surfing. Matt and the boys enjoyed body surfing and Conrad rented a board for a few hours.<br /></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">It is one of the most expensive places we have been and we only stayed four days. Matt repaired the top car of the mainsail track, whose pin had bent. This consisted of bending the pin back into shape (think a beefy vice and lots of hammering) until we can get somewhere to get a replacement. It was nice to have a break before moving on to our next destination: French Guiana (or straight to Trinidad, depending on conditions and timing).<br /></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"></span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTNwlsvsTK5FKkTXud8rxgpWoEepBky64ivG8X2p8-VnzAnYBZqoLlmQGXlQvNlqdnRerIfsHGtgPVajFZ0AeZJW47UAqGuEWvOPj04oeT2-zGXG0EXp0hBRIzH4nGFeM7_nUzgPOF0zmIiPqywpHS8AWl6NApPZBMxSSR2q4V5cmfTXreNna6xvzW/s3903/FrG%20M%20taking%20pic%20in%20cell.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3903" data-original-width="2960" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTNwlsvsTK5FKkTXud8rxgpWoEepBky64ivG8X2p8-VnzAnYBZqoLlmQGXlQvNlqdnRerIfsHGtgPVajFZ0AeZJW47UAqGuEWvOPj04oeT2-zGXG0EXp0hBRIzH4nGFeM7_nUzgPOF0zmIiPqywpHS8AWl6NApPZBMxSSR2q4V5cmfTXreNna6xvzW/w486-h640/FrG%20M%20taking%20pic%20in%20cell.JPG" width="486" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Prison cell on Ile Royale</span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><br />Matt chose our route to minimize the time spent in the <a href="https://www.metoffice.gov.uk/weather/learn-about/weather/atmosphere/intertropical-convergence-zone" target="_blank">ITCZ</a> (the <a href="https://oceanservice.noaa.gov/facts/doldrums.html" target="_blank">doldrums</a>) and maximize the current that runs along the coast. The strategy worked well and we had three days in a row on this leg where we sailed more than 200 nautical miles a day. We motored for about 5 hours total, typically when squalls sucked away our wind. This was also during the time when our generator was acting up and we needed to charge the batteries with the engine anyway. </span></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Our fairly boring passage was rudely interrupted by the aforementioned generator at (of course) 3:00 a.m. It got a bug up its butt and decided to start putting out more than 300 volts (it's only supposed to put out 230 volts). Fortunately, though our Sterling battery chargers are only spec'd to handle 270 volts, they were able to handle the additional power without frying. Had we been running the watermaker at the time, we would probably have burned out the pump.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"></span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfFEo1wzgvixec8dmsL5rpQODcDlCqSDhjIymrr0_EbpZDNY9aFesqR5nqtxXc3Tnk3Hcyz5NVrtAGVtfib6VRLAIUbSEJKXqc5ZZN1nXoE2u16SHgceNXNwTSHbf7wvFjUT5bVBxMD23EOV0zknUoaBIwa2uMkQZVF4AiA1kwwZXJeAxu6lX6PNSc/s3108/AVR%20for%20gen.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1878" data-original-width="3108" height="386" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfFEo1wzgvixec8dmsL5rpQODcDlCqSDhjIymrr0_EbpZDNY9aFesqR5nqtxXc3Tnk3Hcyz5NVrtAGVtfib6VRLAIUbSEJKXqc5ZZN1nXoE2u16SHgceNXNwTSHbf7wvFjUT5bVBxMD23EOV0zknUoaBIwa2uMkQZVF4AiA1kwwZXJeAxu6lX6PNSc/w640-h386/AVR%20for%20gen.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">The repaired AVR</span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><br />Matt sent a satellite email out to cruising friends and got some helpful advice that confirmed his suspicions. The AVR (automatic voltage regulator) had failed. Matt was able to pull the board out and identify the issue: a broken wire connecting one of the components to the circuit board. Luckily he was able to fix it by epoxying the loose component (the glue holding the component down had failed, and the vibrating component had eventually cracked the wire) and soldering in a jumper wire. Fortunately, the sea state wasn't too rocky for all this, though being stuffed into a cramped engine room underway is no one's idea of fun.</span></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv3Knzf8V8OWIAlzzLQHv52doubPdWGEF34LYN1TdQ6Tviq-wrZtrxjcp9TE1AH99txeqwY_oRJoXk8nrVHz4G1IutDZWSeD2gTA43Mh0qtO4OtF7cdXa8sstduWIQwHnz3SENtjA12IAi_UinVzW0yFLgHBzR1DGdcL04-IMWe6yT_MS-bJLEvofs/s4128/FrG%20Devil's%20Island.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2322" data-original-width="4128" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv3Knzf8V8OWIAlzzLQHv52doubPdWGEF34LYN1TdQ6Tviq-wrZtrxjcp9TE1AH99txeqwY_oRJoXk8nrVHz4G1IutDZWSeD2gTA43Mh0qtO4OtF7cdXa8sstduWIQwHnz3SENtjA12IAi_UinVzW0yFLgHBzR1DGdcL04-IMWe6yT_MS-bJLEvofs/w640-h360/FrG%20Devil's%20Island.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Ile du Diable (Devil's Island) - Because it was impossible to land a boat, a cable car carried prisoners across strong currents and shark-infested waters</span></span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><span style="font-family: verdana;"></span></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We decided to stop in French Guiana because had we kept going, we would have gotten to Trinidad on the weekend (Easter weekend), which would have meant overtime charges and closed offices. In total, it took us eight days (1378 nm) to get to Iles du Salut, which is comprised of three islands (Ile Royale, Ile Saint-Joseph, and Ile du Diable--Devil's Island) used by France to house prisoners. <i><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Papillon_(1973_film)" target="_blank">Papillon</a></i> and <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dreyfus_affair" target="_blank">The Dreyfus Affair</a> made famous Devil's Island (where political prisoners were kept in horrendous conditions). Ile Royale is now idyllic and swarming with tourists, so it's hard to get a feel for the oppression that the prisoners must have endured.<br /></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOcDOG6GTAq2bRoxcn_sPXhSGO_hmmrAcjQYU_tWEjDvSll7_XaVWEx5SEtwFeRMhgfGdUumFKjEDTRWCaym7nGohQckBUsVprYtGmRtDsFtXnprN3ADAZgIh2kQuqEI7_9AxFLWstfGC__XpiTW8FZeFFWdPM-KXZAJ2_8r51VMO3y-054HrgMktY/s2748/FrG%20peacock.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2322" data-original-width="2748" height="540" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOcDOG6GTAq2bRoxcn_sPXhSGO_hmmrAcjQYU_tWEjDvSll7_XaVWEx5SEtwFeRMhgfGdUumFKjEDTRWCaym7nGohQckBUsVprYtGmRtDsFtXnprN3ADAZgIh2kQuqEI7_9AxFLWstfGC__XpiTW8FZeFFWdPM-KXZAJ2_8r51VMO3y-054HrgMktY/w640-h540/FrG%20peacock.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Peacocks roam Ile Royale<br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikKLGbFeu8PD652P9t1QMEC9qOWcJ99876EUhk_ticftmpJ6HDttubpqZ99_cNzCPdWV5Z_eexI0HKY5_FGgMbkhAZSGLELlZX0H_TfOTR4yB_Nd0ZbYoYdmdMZ9s2GUJj4KEJOPi9FEL_Ei3L_x5qnbYcO_VydFy9lff9ZoqNMxNgb_7p1joHQQxC/s4128/FrG%20Open%20air%20prison.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4128" data-original-width="2322" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikKLGbFeu8PD652P9t1QMEC9qOWcJ99876EUhk_ticftmpJ6HDttubpqZ99_cNzCPdWV5Z_eexI0HKY5_FGgMbkhAZSGLELlZX0H_TfOTR4yB_Nd0ZbYoYdmdMZ9s2GUJj4KEJOPi9FEL_Ei3L_x5qnbYcO_VydFy9lff9ZoqNMxNgb_7p1joHQQxC/w360-h640/FrG%20Open%20air%20prison.jpg" width="360" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">An 'open air' cell on Ile Saint-Joseph, where the worst of the worst prisoners were kept, exposed to the elements.</span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: verdana;"> </span></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">After two days at Iles du Salut, we started on the final leg our of our Atlantic voyage. Our 4-day passage to Chaguaramas, Trinidad was a mixed bag. Our first day was 214 nautical miles, which is one of fastest days we have ever had. On days two and three, the wind and current moderated a bit and as we approached the coast of Trinidad, we still had 60 miles to go and only a few hours of daylight left. So we slowed down to make sure we would arrive the following morning. We passed a couple oil rigs, one of which lit up the night sky with an eerie orange glow.<br /></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We'll spend a week or two in Chaguaramas (hopefully no longer than that, though boat yards have a tendency to <a href="https://www.svperry.com/2016/02/yes-i-realize-there-are-real-problems.html" target="_blank">suck you in</a>). The boat yard is remote and you need a car to get groceries and most other things, though within walking distance there is a Budget Marine and an expensive convenience store that carries produce. Fortunately, Peake Yachts provides a free shuttle to the mall and grocery store and the facilities here are nice. That's okay--there are fewer distractions; all the better to get our work done.<br /></span></span></p>SV Perryhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16973086223410951684noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1338862963076957389.post-29716799739179328812022-03-19T03:40:00.000-05:002022-04-22T13:49:36.273-05:00Goodbye St. Helena<p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">This post was originally made with the satellite connection and email but has been updated with pictures.<br /></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6C8HwfziiQDXXfjrHl1R3ZbHqL7VlQ3Z23QSXOiELBP7BlRpQAd-uWEOcxSmSdefZRc9GHPKxKjbJm5jl4RU9p7xuI9c2DRSuZUbe-s9LcuujGuzsUX9xQb28KcLdeIpkh8pEivnrLF8aVLRhD1tFgAR9Z1tOSj6MOKPq_4mhT-Usexr7i6rl735w/s4128/STH%20Jacob's%20Ladder.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2322" data-original-width="4128" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6C8HwfziiQDXXfjrHl1R3ZbHqL7VlQ3Z23QSXOiELBP7BlRpQAd-uWEOcxSmSdefZRc9GHPKxKjbJm5jl4RU9p7xuI9c2DRSuZUbe-s9LcuujGuzsUX9xQb28KcLdeIpkh8pEivnrLF8aVLRhD1tFgAR9Z1tOSj6MOKPq_4mhT-Usexr7i6rl735w/w640-h360/STH%20Jacob's%20Ladder.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Jacob's Ladder (699 steps)<br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table> </span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">After just over a week in St. Helena, we are continuing on our journey across the Atlantic. St. Helena is not big but is packed with unique and varied terrain (hills and valleys plunging into crystal clear waters, arid scrub, and pastures from an English countryside), as well as loads of history.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span></span></span></span></p><a name='more'></a><span style="font-size: medium;"> </span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqiHvd2vvgjyBwsSaiBafVZqyPv4Uua84Lv5EY-BFV7Osn56isKmhCSidFun3lhYK1HNSR-AQHzQoYT6IhzFa5M-ViKN7SFg4YumswAFvbe7mAvfG2A0jo-MiaJ3smhhk3GukPcoS5W9pZMoYGIzXmtFRRHTJjDFGQAAtTRZbREYqopFsmdhTzEUtX/s4128/STH%20Napolean's%20house.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2322" data-original-width="4128" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqiHvd2vvgjyBwsSaiBafVZqyPv4Uua84Lv5EY-BFV7Osn56isKmhCSidFun3lhYK1HNSR-AQHzQoYT6IhzFa5M-ViKN7SFg4YumswAFvbe7mAvfG2A0jo-MiaJ3smhhk3GukPcoS5W9pZMoYGIzXmtFRRHTJjDFGQAAtTRZbREYqopFsmdhTzEUtX/w640-h360/STH%20Napolean's%20house.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Napolean's house/museum<br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><br />We visited the house where Napolean spent his final days and used Internet in the remains of an old castle. There are cannons everywhere. The people are friendly and welcoming. Every passing car (and there are a lot of cars) and pedestrian waves and greets every other car and person.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc7zCVdNGQjNk1tt4nb4Il4pOrEcf3Y4TUJzbrQUVi0XTOYWX7rEivraKpob50W6UvAu-Ao82noeX0j3CVgCfFsoGDVajmXemwLaxhNAu8fGAy9-XXc7qqv3BhGNxIlK4bSAgEDWRAce1CLOM_MEo2DEL6XsptXVIk92NAGw5kbU78twzBuHQnxHC2/s3018/STH%20Napolean's%20grave.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2220" data-original-width="3018" height="470" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc7zCVdNGQjNk1tt4nb4Il4pOrEcf3Y4TUJzbrQUVi0XTOYWX7rEivraKpob50W6UvAu-Ao82noeX0j3CVgCfFsoGDVajmXemwLaxhNAu8fGAy9-XXc7qqv3BhGNxIlK4bSAgEDWRAce1CLOM_MEo2DEL6XsptXVIk92NAGw5kbU78twzBuHQnxHC2/w640-h470/STH%20Napolean's%20grave.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Napolean's tomb (his body has been moved to France)<br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><br />It's one of the more expensive places we have been, which is understandable considering how remote it is. We will also not miss the anchorage because it can get quite rolly. The trade-off is that we have seen huge Mahi Mahi and Devil rays swimming by the boat. Apparently, a whale shark swam right by our boat in the anchorage but we were busy fixing something and didn't notice.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH8qsAZKBX1tVThZVfDx9Ir43qm65_Qr0-OdOGY53DN-RqxPLluRqO3cJ4cR9Q-3K0mnIWbYkdxulN1PERKZ_ExWZ92Cv7f_LiIGoQ_b_T9WnkxL1NCaQhFNynEfG3UCd3PXbp4oxOREkShmssCuVCt0AnQM1guadQ_d8MZpmqeLa90uaAOXaAFlz6/s4128/STH%20M%20and%20boys%20on%20beach.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2322" data-original-width="4128" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH8qsAZKBX1tVThZVfDx9Ir43qm65_Qr0-OdOGY53DN-RqxPLluRqO3cJ4cR9Q-3K0mnIWbYkdxulN1PERKZ_ExWZ92Cv7f_LiIGoQ_b_T9WnkxL1NCaQhFNynEfG3UCd3PXbp4oxOREkShmssCuVCt0AnQM1guadQ_d8MZpmqeLa90uaAOXaAFlz6/w640-h360/STH%20M%20and%20boys%20on%20beach.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Sandy Beach</span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /></span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPUbnRSDkBQ16qzAHdSBE_9NJSxGDf4MNnLJUlsPwaaIHPA02-sQMb8u-FVuPIS_M9TPrIO_GfDXeHxgBm1Bj0R8bDEbl9o6Q3-sqGlilYp1uODCEiF89PNz2n0JEaScRJzv5xOHBU-1guJR9xf7coeIODtLrE_iRP4vFtgHXbDP7RHfG2NmrbQ2D3/s4128/STH%20J%20on%20fort.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2322" data-original-width="4128" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPUbnRSDkBQ16qzAHdSBE_9NJSxGDf4MNnLJUlsPwaaIHPA02-sQMb8u-FVuPIS_M9TPrIO_GfDXeHxgBm1Bj0R8bDEbl9o6Q3-sqGlilYp1uODCEiF89PNz2n0JEaScRJzv5xOHBU-1guJR9xf7coeIODtLrE_iRP4vFtgHXbDP7RHfG2NmrbQ2D3/w640-h360/STH%20J%20on%20fort.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We plan to head to Fernando de Noronha, which is part of Brazil, for a short respite. You can see our progress at <a href="https://forecast.predictwind.com/tracking/display/Perry">https://forecast.predictwind.com/tracking/display/Perry</a>.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2322" data-original-width="4128" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqHofVkM9ZgcoH-0rW9eNu4r79KXSJBqyJc0Azh7EGW1mMysZRJ4LOmm652ly85eb7nOMoG22Gk0PNMW38xkuciyXK24DyJp4yJdgtekCSs2S5xCuVKtD1w2YQEsGa9RQuxNyZzRyUJy8AZ_iSDRqN5XXIOUhYhfJ-fu8LhbaQYQ_tvkYj22LezWfi/w640-h360/STH%20approaching%20STH.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="640" /></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Approaching St. Helena<br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table></span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqHofVkM9ZgcoH-0rW9eNu4r79KXSJBqyJc0Azh7EGW1mMysZRJ4LOmm652ly85eb7nOMoG22Gk0PNMW38xkuciyXK24DyJp4yJdgtekCSs2S5xCuVKtD1w2YQEsGa9RQuxNyZzRyUJy8AZ_iSDRqN5XXIOUhYhfJ-fu8LhbaQYQ_tvkYj22LezWfi/s4128/STH%20approaching%20STH.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqHofVkM9ZgcoH-0rW9eNu4r79KXSJBqyJc0Azh7EGW1mMysZRJ4LOmm652ly85eb7nOMoG22Gk0PNMW38xkuciyXK24DyJp4yJdgtekCSs2S5xCuVKtD1w2YQEsGa9RQuxNyZzRyUJy8AZ_iSDRqN5XXIOUhYhfJ-fu8LhbaQYQ_tvkYj22LezWfi/s4128/STH%20approaching%20STH.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisEwuJulED2aKvWUc-4uNYyTMOSVzV6MIw7hvkcCHMe9CZrNsz5PId0Swwz7WDogKwp09dRgz_gL3wr1wER66bKHwrKG6s-fYMQd6-ZY5VndVoGShPcCnyYfYmQ0rwVD0A2_JoBQ8rAcK0SIv7J2lzU4CMcpi1-dUkRt48NSV9hLMXtBp8p6vrlQH5/s4128/STH%20C%20on%20hike%20in%20desolate%20terrain.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2322" data-original-width="4128" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisEwuJulED2aKvWUc-4uNYyTMOSVzV6MIw7hvkcCHMe9CZrNsz5PId0Swwz7WDogKwp09dRgz_gL3wr1wER66bKHwrKG6s-fYMQd6-ZY5VndVoGShPcCnyYfYmQ0rwVD0A2_JoBQ8rAcK0SIv7J2lzU4CMcpi1-dUkRt48NSV9hLMXtBp8p6vrlQH5/w640-h360/STH%20C%20on%20hike%20in%20desolate%20terrain.jpg" width="640" /></a></div></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9oq4NZO0qc_y9GcAoRPjGRutLH9UIc9iBfTNJMfHHNbBHKLY9fG03JWZRi3ufEjMcctYj4P1HBKAop3as19GNtM2XulRnb_UNTxcRPBRlXnv67rE87rQAHWasmgibFgcrlM36nHSuymOWSrioMUga6Y0zV87ALmQYsS4U_J8DlRkU3bYps-k2oKTG/s4128/STH%20fort%20next%20to%20sea.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2322" data-original-width="4128" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9oq4NZO0qc_y9GcAoRPjGRutLH9UIc9iBfTNJMfHHNbBHKLY9fG03JWZRi3ufEjMcctYj4P1HBKAop3as19GNtM2XulRnb_UNTxcRPBRlXnv67rE87rQAHWasmgibFgcrlM36nHSuymOWSrioMUga6Y0zV87ALmQYsS4U_J8DlRkU3bYps-k2oKTG/w640-h360/STH%20fort%20next%20to%20sea.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgl90zlrVm55_FebxtRtOqoJuP3ZgXJa6pMIhERwVv0GB-URNN8Ccq1yNJs9K_bgnjCfnBIuMjmCeWnbG7cUoYm9zBhEJ_DrLgulr6i2-E23cWxCGGgOeWHsX29-_YODn-l5lLZpUozxhqB2_KtvR0R0WD0tlRqU4N0Dgu0hKud_X_yZWpd3OSczAjh/s4128/STH%20boys%20on%20fort%20wall.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2322" data-original-width="4128" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgl90zlrVm55_FebxtRtOqoJuP3ZgXJa6pMIhERwVv0GB-URNN8Ccq1yNJs9K_bgnjCfnBIuMjmCeWnbG7cUoYm9zBhEJ_DrLgulr6i2-E23cWxCGGgOeWHsX29-_YODn-l5lLZpUozxhqB2_KtvR0R0WD0tlRqU4N0Dgu0hKud_X_yZWpd3OSczAjh/w640-h360/STH%20boys%20on%20fort%20wall.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /></span><p></p>SV Perryhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16973086223410951684noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1338862963076957389.post-9628396033112504482022-03-08T10:50:00.000-06:002022-03-08T10:51:36.497-06:00Namibia to St. HelenaTechnology makes our life as ocean goers so much easier. Besides the auto-pilot ('Otto'), satellite communications for weather, GPS and radar, AIS is our superpower out here. It's like our eyes, but better. The Internet has all the details (look up Automated Identification System), but basically AIS uses VHF and GPS technology to let ships track each others' position anywhere on earth. Smaller fishing vessels in certain parts of the world often don't have AIS, so you still have to keep watch). Most of the time, ships will see us on AIS and avoid us without even a radio call. As a vessel under sail, we technically have the right of way, but bigger ships always win.
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<br>But sometimes ignorance can be bliss.
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<br>On our passage from Namibia to St. Helena, there was a huge tanker called 'Winning Kindness' that was drifting along as we passed it. We were too far away to see it but it showed up on AIS. We wondered what it was doing, but often ships will change their speed to get to their destination at the right time. Then later that evening, we saw the same ship on AIS again. This time it was going 12 knots and we were projected to be on a collision course. It didn't help that our boat speed was fluctuating a lot due to the flaky winds we have been getting, making it hard for other boats to predict our position. As we kept an eye on the boat's position for the next hour and a half, it occurred to me that it was like the start to a bad horror film. 'An unsuspecting family unwittingly sails past a tanker. Later, the same tanker is suddenly in front of them and heading straight for them.'
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<br>Well, of course nothing bad happened and the tanker passed a couple miles behind us. If we hadn't had AIS, we would never have even known the ship was there until we saw its lights as it got closer. After spending so much time making sure we would avoid hitting Winning Kindness, we later saw on AIS that it was drifting along at .3 knots again. Of course, even though the drama on AIS kept us in suspense for such a long time, without AIS it would have been much more disconcerting to see a huge tanker that close to us, especially at night.
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<br>Being in South Africa and Namibia reminded us that the Portuguese gave the world more than Peri Peri chicken. Vasco da Gama and Bartolomeu Dias, who were Portuguese explorers that landed in Africa in the 15th century, did their exploring without any of the information or technology we rely on. It puts what we're doing--with all the tools at our disposal--into perspective.
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<br>But almost nine days at sea is still nine days at sea. Overall, it was a pleasant-enough passage, but it was certainly not a set-it-and-forget-it kind of sail. The flaky wind required many course adjustments and sail changes. The seas kept much of the ride bumpy and banged the boat around. But we made bread (using Maeve--the 50-year old sourdough starter that Merel on Anjea gave us), fished (1 mahi mahi and 1 tuna) and played Euchre.
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<br>As always after a long passage, we were elated to see land. We were greeted by huge volcanic cliffs that plunge into the sea and a mooring field full of boats, including a few that we know. Having arrived on Tuesday morning, we have a couple days on the boat before our PCR tests on Thursday. It's just as well because it gives us a chance to rest and work on some of the projects we have accumulated. We can't do much about the dead start battery for the generator and starboard engine until we can get to land, but the top car for the mainsail needs a repair and the clothes we have been wearing for way too long need to be washed.SV Perryhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16973086223410951684noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1338862963076957389.post-57196051716080277822022-02-28T00:00:00.069-06:002022-02-28T00:00:00.177-06:00Namibia to St. Helena. Also, track us!<p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"></span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgVVq2S9WGhxPXhcnbpGnbyB62YpOF9bR6-Spva8eeakdi6NnqPthGmFAo53KqcdrEINr7bgir1PbOvzMEdOt8iv0lqSCJkHitO6GxbdCzSRQqg7Z659ZH04BTl-CKzT0e9qVD7hhFbSz9NSxH21dluCzQxHGlMXsTNuLRcx6Vo7kCz9h-IM8EgnWR-=s1920" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1920" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgVVq2S9WGhxPXhcnbpGnbyB62YpOF9bR6-Spva8eeakdi6NnqPthGmFAo53KqcdrEINr7bgir1PbOvzMEdOt8iv0lqSCJkHitO6GxbdCzSRQqg7Z659ZH04BTl-CKzT0e9qVD7hhFbSz9NSxH21dluCzQxHGlMXsTNuLRcx6Vo7kCz9h-IM8EgnWR-=w640-h360" width="640" /></a></span></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><br />Matt mentioned the other day that when he had seen other cruisers' pictures of the Namib desert, he had no idea how cold it would be. I mean, it's the desert. It's supposed to be hot during the day, right?<br /></span></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span></span></span></span></p><a name='more'></a><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"> <br /></span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEj8_Nn4rhpVjdaGCkXzIMvxBvNu3B5xxujQUOila_msCuwTJAfE3cbhPuyvZ5diggyFJWfsiaEkW_FM2zEniWlNdJznu2JFH8QBQ449s8Ef4uAp1NpZSRx1az-G1LWsvgQf1OmpezcG-r1aU9bMVL_Ne4fWIZfyiRNhCAeibTjgKZs2RDTHMwvnuy5H=s4128" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2322" data-original-width="4128" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEj8_Nn4rhpVjdaGCkXzIMvxBvNu3B5xxujQUOila_msCuwTJAfE3cbhPuyvZ5diggyFJWfsiaEkW_FM2zEniWlNdJznu2JFH8QBQ449s8Ef4uAp1NpZSRx1az-G1LWsvgQf1OmpezcG-r1aU9bMVL_Ne4fWIZfyiRNhCAeibTjgKZs2RDTHMwvnuy5H=w640-h360" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><i>Perry </i>surrounded by dunes at Hottentot<br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">So why have we been bundled up with every layer we own during our sails through Namibia? It's the <a href="https://gondwana-collection.com/blog/fun-facts-about-the-benguela-current-in-namibia" target="_blank">Benguela Current</a>, which acts like an air conditioner for the entire coast of Namibia. The water temps hover around 55 F, and the air is about the same. Our sail from <a href="https://www.svperry.com/2022/02/missing-out-or-incredibly-lucky.html" target="_blank">Luderitz</a> to Hottentot Bay was cold, fast and a bit lumpy. There was a lot of fog, seals and dolphins too. <br /></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgZitM_U_grVl75uGMz6Wp-dYrxHc6HO7tCZdlZE7UtDt4xwMbFS5AhPhnD8zHuGnpmCxQ40sy0LSMIP2n9eB8v99GZJgvXW6f1syOd7qvUnlbiGm_NhtelHK19TaAY4WvfZIEEi-gMpnByK8RzHhk16PLyOK7Lshp4sSVAmUKyC8STge0n7CyB7Y1F=s4128" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2322" data-original-width="4128" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgZitM_U_grVl75uGMz6Wp-dYrxHc6HO7tCZdlZE7UtDt4xwMbFS5AhPhnD8zHuGnpmCxQ40sy0LSMIP2n9eB8v99GZJgvXW6f1syOd7qvUnlbiGm_NhtelHK19TaAY4WvfZIEEi-gMpnByK8RzHhk16PLyOK7Lshp4sSVAmUKyC8STge0n7CyB7Y1F=w640-h360" width="640" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"></span></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Hottentot Bay is a deserted desert with endless dunes, a few abandoned and semi-abandoned buildings, and a handful of lobster fishing boats. After an afternoon enduring howling winds, the next morning was relatively calm. We were able to launch the dinghy and spent a morning climbing some dunes and exploring the shore. Later, one of the lobster boats insisted that we take a huge (~15 kilo) bag of very small spiny lobster, which they delivered to us by having us throw a rope at them and tying the bag of lobsters to the end of the rope. There were way too many for us to eat and even though we appreciated the gift, we ended up letting over half of them go to keep growing. But some weren't going to make it. So we've been feasting on <a href="https://www.svperry.com/2013/03/lobster-dinner-lobster-salad-lobster.html" target="_blank">lobster</a> for the last 3 consecutive </span></span><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">meals </span></span>(breakfast excluded, although we would have made lobster omelettes if we had been on our game).</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiq-FSYVZyyY-sKexVAHGyxf66WFvkqtVss-Bxks1Mdl39FPjuJcSvaPUmpJBPbbF03fjLJ9lJ2eCMeXqrF5iFeyKciUEOgQ3h77pQFOxU_he02Dn2bBbsGQFYa8rLqG9ILgxWMQRd2RvGKmKAixrtav5Nyq2irOAS4wy8k-Ko336DEEjWG-8FgKWWq=s4128" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2322" data-original-width="4128" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiq-FSYVZyyY-sKexVAHGyxf66WFvkqtVss-Bxks1Mdl39FPjuJcSvaPUmpJBPbbF03fjLJ9lJ2eCMeXqrF5iFeyKciUEOgQ3h77pQFOxU_he02Dn2bBbsGQFYa8rLqG9ILgxWMQRd2RvGKmKAixrtav5Nyq2irOAS4wy8k-Ko336DEEjWG-8FgKWWq=w640-h360" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><i>Perry</i> in Hottentot Bay<br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">The anchorage was comfortable enough for us, but the wind was screaming in the rigging and there was a bit of an onshore swell. Based on the conditions we decided to skip Spencer Bay, the next possible stop to the north, and make our way straight to Walvis Bay (pronounced something like "Vahlfish" by some of the locals). We sailed past Spencer Bay in the dark so we didn't see the resident penguin colony, but I could sure smell it.<br /></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"></span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiA5WT7p4XMbyOro5mLCc7zqECkEJs2301axkynu3Qmr_tcbmMeL0I0clFBCJgSxilByOWpP4788TwaOb-liU7SZIpb8fwhKshwMqqPNgcqcIkrLxW_78bgZZWV4HbQKk_pxLxJRCTWRcg8bT9Zjy5ytsDVl60UrneBpbTNfEV3G16emYYHyVIOHlOx=s4128" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2322" data-original-width="4128" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiA5WT7p4XMbyOro5mLCc7zqECkEJs2301axkynu3Qmr_tcbmMeL0I0clFBCJgSxilByOWpP4788TwaOb-liU7SZIpb8fwhKshwMqqPNgcqcIkrLxW_78bgZZWV4HbQKk_pxLxJRCTWRcg8bT9Zjy5ytsDVl60UrneBpbTNfEV3G16emYYHyVIOHlOx=w640-h360" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Whale skull at Hottentot</span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"></span></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"> </span></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Besides wanting to visit Hottentot Bay, we came to Walvis Bay mostly because the forecast for the weekend showed very little wind down in Luderitz. Now mind you, leaving from either Luderitz or Walvis Bay to go to St. Helena, is about the same distance. So we basically sailed 261 nautical miles over two days and two nights to catch the wind and avoid motoring. We have apparently become true sailors, which is to say, a bit touched in the head.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgczEgUGkHmvmHBWbX3Zx_CQZHV5gLWLgZTBqxDkl9681jNUXj2g0ufC6XkrkSPvST0znfgWyy7i2l7LKt_30NOpxWpdevx4nL1qLvV_fUQuY5uwMuQeLpRHGRfhJ7qYjwD0ac2s7ymjsBF1upx1qvMt9r_4VH1NORE2no0iy5cHv_0IoJ3PjdVLmOd=s4026" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1824" data-original-width="4026" height="290" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgczEgUGkHmvmHBWbX3Zx_CQZHV5gLWLgZTBqxDkl9681jNUXj2g0ufC6XkrkSPvST0znfgWyy7i2l7LKt_30NOpxWpdevx4nL1qLvV_fUQuY5uwMuQeLpRHGRfhJ7qYjwD0ac2s7ymjsBF1upx1qvMt9r_4VH1NORE2no0iy5cHv_0IoJ3PjdVLmOd=w640-h290" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Namport Container Terminal in Walvis Bay<br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><span style="font-family: verdana;"></span></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Today, Walvis Bay has a very distinctive and strong fish, sulphur and guano smell (apparently there is an algae bloom that is killing off some fish) and <i>Perry </i>is anchored next to a big dock with huge cranes and hundreds of shipping containers. We stretched our sailing-atrophied legs to walk to and around town, which is a couple miles from the Walvis Bay Yacht Club, near our anchorage. We got a bit spoiled being at the V&A and Luderitz, where the stores were very close to our boat. One of the kids (I won't say who) was at a 7/10 on the whine-o-meter. There are lots of seals in the harbor and several have already tried to take up residence on our transom.</span></span></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjuDXX1x-Uj7gcIIRBhK-dvxX12Q0IBoKQxe97-g2PpuF40WSXr3__oBeXIHZYt2J8nPxWn38NOCYDARXoClvqQoWyHKjVKvkRV5hdKNm1-wpRe_Ndu-LHbf-e6a7s4KWtcoRTdJPI0QOJT_FkBwxpSwP72GO_E_ISyGDJrLDAaohdxXgjQ3CWwZmq3=s1436" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="810" data-original-width="1436" height="362" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjuDXX1x-Uj7gcIIRBhK-dvxX12Q0IBoKQxe97-g2PpuF40WSXr3__oBeXIHZYt2J8nPxWn38NOCYDARXoClvqQoWyHKjVKvkRV5hdKNm1-wpRe_Ndu-LHbf-e6a7s4KWtcoRTdJPI0QOJT_FkBwxpSwP72GO_E_ISyGDJrLDAaohdxXgjQ3CWwZmq3=w640-h362" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Are you really going to make me move, dude?<br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"></span></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dune_7_(Namibia)" target="_blank">Dune 7</a>, which, at </span></span><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">1,256 feet (383 meters), is the tallest dune in Namibia (the seventh tallest in the world), is the other reason we wanted to visit Walvis Bay. </span></span><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">It's a short drive out of Walvis Bay and it beckoned us. We had to maintain our sordid history of mounting whatever high point exists in the area. </span></span>Apparently, we also really like having sand in our teeth and every crevice of our bodies. This was also an acceptable form of exercise that did not involve parental cajoling or whining.<br /></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><br /></span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEj8nNTLdo_4ny09hfsFq2cvb8ABYqy0on-vr2vOEkNdgYVJUg7wmKN6192AFlxYLcVs16n3wEE-BiqyfCbdvfyAm2qQhipZ9wmlAUBDKN3I6aTTwYncLyogliAPADEPr8CybHmPTPgOsU902hJEbzUq5w5PxzXcGIxz_SF9xW0KPKilFg5gugmE-mI8=s4128" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2322" data-original-width="4128" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEj8nNTLdo_4ny09hfsFq2cvb8ABYqy0on-vr2vOEkNdgYVJUg7wmKN6192AFlxYLcVs16n3wEE-BiqyfCbdvfyAm2qQhipZ9wmlAUBDKN3I6aTTwYncLyogliAPADEPr8CybHmPTPgOsU902hJEbzUq5w5PxzXcGIxz_SF9xW0KPKilFg5gugmE-mI8=w640-h360" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Dune 7 near Walvis Bay (not to be confused with Dune 7 in Sossuvlei)<br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">After a couple days in Walvis Bay, we are headed to St. Helena. Because St. Helena is a very small country with limited resources, they can only do PCR tests (which are free) on Thursdays. So we have to time our trip to get there before Thursday, but not so soon that we are cooped up on the boat for more than a couple days. The journey should take about 10 days.</span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiH24HsIZ4Aif9jfS-RkmWfaP8TAJ8vlgpDiujA4js1nVRm-CsLj2w96RZxKnMa3Xa2BeRr-WjCKW2hGaby-jxY9duSrncbuHLZozv5W74GtzhbXmrb5FYFuQ-YqgI522YCS_rQH0BoCs3ZAMh5IhUBdTjGTGHZlzZDA1k0s_TXes8VOhVhNOg8FKOK=s1920" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1920" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiH24HsIZ4Aif9jfS-RkmWfaP8TAJ8vlgpDiujA4js1nVRm-CsLj2w96RZxKnMa3Xa2BeRr-WjCKW2hGaby-jxY9duSrncbuHLZozv5W74GtzhbXmrb5FYFuQ-YqgI522YCS_rQH0BoCs3ZAMh5IhUBdTjGTGHZlzZDA1k0s_TXes8VOhVhNOg8FKOK=w640-h360" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Racing down the dunes with our taxi driver, John, looking on. Spoiler: I lost.</span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Also, because Internet in St. Helena is a million dollars a megabyte or something crazy, we may not be updating the blog much until after we have finished crossing the Atlantic. </span></span><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">While we are underway, you can track our progress here: <a href="https://forecast.predictwind.com/tracking/display/Perry/">https://forecast.predictwind.com/tracking/display/Perry/</a>.</span></span></p>SV Perryhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16973086223410951684noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1338862963076957389.post-68895164227297338052022-02-20T00:00:00.196-06:002022-02-20T00:00:00.181-06:00Missing out or incredibly lucky?<p> </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhhv2ph2ioqotO5C1A6WEDbDVTcdv8NMgfHPt1dQWtIjkFWkncDYVwlndjqpuJx6eQrqVBeyh5F6-ri-15TxHtnHBtn3hSYwIGdK7DjGWUSEV3UtzXTnEHAbDBhYg9wjV5BbYPTXwCogBG0QA0L4LND-wsY0exGVteFnXlru5VlmlGcLHKRNmNNoRg2=s4128" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2322" data-original-width="4128" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhhv2ph2ioqotO5C1A6WEDbDVTcdv8NMgfHPt1dQWtIjkFWkncDYVwlndjqpuJx6eQrqVBeyh5F6-ri-15TxHtnHBtn3hSYwIGdK7DjGWUSEV3UtzXTnEHAbDBhYg9wjV5BbYPTXwCogBG0QA0L4LND-wsY0exGVteFnXlru5VlmlGcLHKRNmNNoRg2=w640-h360" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">The desert in living color. Normally there is no green.</span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">The top attraction in Namibia (competing with <a href="https://www.etoshanationalpark.org/" target="_blank">Etosha National Park</a>) is arguably <a href="https://www.sossusvlei.org/" target="_blank">Sossusvlei</a>, a salt and clay pan surrounded by high red dunes. I'll tell you straight away that we tried and failed to make it there. Still, we feel privileged rather than deprived.<span></span></span></span></p><a name='more'></a><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEh3rWUFHaBQ6eLuL9_T0Jtvcm58aUDXl3ekSOgxr5p9oWDboeBe3z9G8PhW62UIu1IOwzZ-F2iDm9CNx3f2Itik3C663Kx81fQMjB7Dnka8KHczpoGmU2f0yb6XLnzknIHZX_qAj7LKxupEsvOcofXUbztWg-24iowxVZ4XRMgEgKUBwUNcWIwh2Mc7=s3504" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2336" data-original-width="3504" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEh3rWUFHaBQ6eLuL9_T0Jtvcm58aUDXl3ekSOgxr5p9oWDboeBe3z9G8PhW62UIu1IOwzZ-F2iDm9CNx3f2Itik3C663Kx81fQMjB7Dnka8KHczpoGmU2f0yb6XLnzknIHZX_qAj7LKxupEsvOcofXUbztWg-24iowxVZ4XRMgEgKUBwUNcWIwh2Mc7=w640-h426" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We climbed one of the smaller dunes--high enough for us in the heat<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /></span></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">By all accounts, the dramatic dunes are a sight to behold. So we bit the bullet and shelled out the big money
to rent a four-wheel drive Ford Ranger to navigate the sand and gravel roads that make up
most of the six-plus-hour drive from <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/L%C3%BCderitz" target="_blank">Luderitz</a> to <a href="https://www.nwr.com.na/resorts/sesriem-campsite/" target="_blank">Sesrium</a>. We rationalized the extra cost as necessary because only four-wheel drive vehicles are allowed in the last four kilometers into Sossusvlei itself (if you don't want to depend on a paid shuttle service). With the local lodges running around $350 US per person per night, we opted for the cheaper, but still pricey campsite (</span></span><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">over $80 US for <i>camping--</i>in your own tents--for the five of us). They came with power and personal showers and toilets, but it was still just camping</span></span>. The one benefit of the campsite was that it was located inside of the park. That allowed us to get a head start as the park opens the inner gates that lead to Sossusvlei at 5:30 a.m. but doesn't open the main gate until 6:00 a.m.<br /></span></span></p><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We left Luderitz and had a stunning drive through some unreal landscapes that were made even more amazing due to the green hues and grasses covering the normally desolate red-brown of the desert. It's been an active summer here and the normally dry desert has been getting more rain than usual. After driving through a thunderstorm and a few sketchy bits of road, we made it to camp. We ended the day by watching the sun set over the dunes, enjoying a tasty oryx steak dinner, and having some drinks around the camp fire. Then off to bed as it was going to be another "up before the sunrise" outing.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">OK, sorry to interrupt, but time for a bit of a sidebar rant. So we've been to a number of places where the "thing" was to get to a certain spot prior to sunrise in order to watch the sun rise over the mountain, sea, city scape or random goat or whatever. Of course, this usually means getting up at an uncivilized hour, stumbling around while trying to brush your teeth and making sure the underwear doesn't get put on backwards. Then it's off for a walk/drive/bumble, usually cold and certainly to the accompaniment of complaints from the children, to the pre-ordained perfect spot from which to watch the supposed miracle of the sun coming up. And almost invariably, when all is said and done, we've come to the conclusion that we could have just gotten up at close to a regular time and still experienced 99% of whatever it was. That extra 1% from seeing the very first ray of light is rarely worth the hassle of all that comes with it. </span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">And yet, somehow, we always forget these hard learned conclusions, and allow ourselves to be convinced that this time it really WILL be worth it to get up early and see the first light hit the dune, scrubby tree, or scraggly chicken. This time was no different.<br /></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">So, the next morning, we got ourselves up in the dark to time our arrival at the dunes for sunrise and drove along the unlit gravel road, narrowly missing a jackal that darted towards the truck. As we approached the Tsauchab River, which is a normally dry collection of dust and stones, we were met with 3 stopped vehicles and this:</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEitQ1emCVmA3bHqXcK3VXhYNpsqWdwHKhvo4Wpw_PpDM_aHVIg1OQAZ25bzN2WyUwck9fGi5qbhQDoV5PSq9dRxTy1btYvDkm3H9Q-IG6kMnsFl8ko7ris5YWrmybsCdSSZcoFTr89HUlItiNKSBkBykDxjS9pVyfTu2lkfeOXagmlnpvbUqJbFQuAR=s1920" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1920" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEitQ1emCVmA3bHqXcK3VXhYNpsqWdwHKhvo4Wpw_PpDM_aHVIg1OQAZ25bzN2WyUwck9fGi5qbhQDoV5PSq9dRxTy1btYvDkm3H9Q-IG6kMnsFl8ko7ris5YWrmybsCdSSZcoFTr89HUlItiNKSBkBykDxjS9pVyfTu2lkfeOXagmlnpvbUqJbFQuAR=w640-h360" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Our friend and car mate <a href="https://anjea.info/slog" target="_blank">Dave</a> (<i>Anjea</i>). Those are 2-foot standing waves in the Tsauchab River, which is normally a dry river bed.<br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><span style="font-family: verdana;">This is a quote from the Sossusvlei travel site: "Sossusvlei literally translates to 'dead-end marsh', as it is the place where the dunes come together preventing the Tsauchab River to flow any further, some 60km east of the Atlantic Ocean. However, due to the dry conditions in the Namib Desert the river seldom flows this far and the pan remains bone-dry most years. During an exceptional rainy season the Tsauchab fills the pan, drawing visitors from all over the world to witness this spectacular site."</span></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"></span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEguU4dGzpcOGiG4P6GKY-mx_a2E2rWC8yhw6Zy0tRgMpn1ZEkjibHCQgq3XL-dNT2DTZPOn_EjRJ0WKOkoPrhsPa-NkmexWR6InlMRrk2cswqrS5b47aUjb0WeFYIil9hiso6KzEQo-ISp-ZMTQ3nubRFHBwQRdjLtRLPgEB-oBytofifPfY9PaSiIu=s3504" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2336" data-original-width="3504" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEguU4dGzpcOGiG4P6GKY-mx_a2E2rWC8yhw6Zy0tRgMpn1ZEkjibHCQgq3XL-dNT2DTZPOn_EjRJ0WKOkoPrhsPa-NkmexWR6InlMRrk2cswqrS5b47aUjb0WeFYIil9hiso6KzEQo-ISp-ZMTQ3nubRFHBwQRdjLtRLPgEB-oBytofifPfY9PaSiIu=w640-h426" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Why did the oryx cross the road?</span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><br /></span></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We waited an hour for the river to subside enough to cross, but it never did. We went back to camp to have a cup of coffee and give the river a bit more time to go down. Our second try was also unsuccessful. </span></span><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">So,
instead of going to Sossusvlei, we climbed the unnamed dune that sits
just before the river crossing. By that time, it was 9 a.m. and the sun
and sand were already scorching. Matt and Conrad made it to the top, but
Mark and I decided to head down because we were feeling light-headed
and the sand burned our bare feet. We are (or were, anyway) used to heat, but the desert sun is no joke. </span></span> </span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"></span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgOWlUGsFCQM7pxyAuIQ9leVncm-R3sTw4j8otVVqybVUK9uyTUYHWiIGhnudnHA60jxGMPAZXicbK00ozka2npXNpdtgwJZZfByBFzsTWYCUKImCIhDGWHEaS9i5ZPQU7jIKjFW7gJr5LtnauYkeGo3Jlxx-4LE6AL_2hBWwNJBbPVR0mvBCUviBy_=s3534" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2118" data-original-width="3534" height="384" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgOWlUGsFCQM7pxyAuIQ9leVncm-R3sTw4j8otVVqybVUK9uyTUYHWiIGhnudnHA60jxGMPAZXicbK00ozka2npXNpdtgwJZZfByBFzsTWYCUKImCIhDGWHEaS9i5ZPQU7jIKjFW7gJr5LtnauYkeGo3Jlxx-4LE6AL_2hBWwNJBbPVR0mvBCUviBy_=w640-h384" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Luderitz, a German mining town, where <i>Perry</i> is moored.</span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">By
the time we left, the few vehicles that made it across to Sossusvlei
before the river flooded were stranded and still waiting to come back to
the Sesrium side. One intrepid man decided to try to wade into the
river a few feet but quickly got out. It is ill-advised to wade in the
waters. Besides the risk of being carried away, there can be snakes.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjIe3W83PC_XtXatH6EiSoBBg3TV9K0X5PAwbMZZAOx_8YnSWEYic6NbyEkf2Dj18dfSKQioAknhoAJOvPT1nMLb7RjBPrR7LykEc-5ohn7x-rZSE-syITAPbAOwR3hMcYBp4J7BvJZGvxCtzPJdNGWp972pEoe5uTUgcnEFYjFXwz-3SPpHb4oOrCV=s3504" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3504" data-original-width="2336" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjIe3W83PC_XtXatH6EiSoBBg3TV9K0X5PAwbMZZAOx_8YnSWEYic6NbyEkf2Dj18dfSKQioAknhoAJOvPT1nMLb7RjBPrR7LykEc-5ohn7x-rZSE-syITAPbAOwR3hMcYBp4J7BvJZGvxCtzPJdNGWp972pEoe5uTUgcnEFYjFXwz-3SPpHb4oOrCV=w426-h640" width="426" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">A wild desert horse <br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We
have had many Namibians tell us how lucky we were to see the desert in
bloom and how rare it was for there to be water in the river. Local
tourism was up as Namibians flocked to the desert to witness the unusual
scene.</span></span></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We ran out of time to wait for the river and needed to start the 6 hour journey back to Luderitz. </span></span>We planned our route back and got about three miles out of Sesrium when we encountered another flooded river crossing blocking our way. After chatting with a local car that had been waiting for three hours to cross, we decided the only option was to wait for the water to go down and to head back to Sesrium and have some lunch. The prospect of not getting out and having to spend another night at the campsite was a real possibility. Luckily, a ranger at the restaurant told us of another crossing point where traffic had just recently been able to get through, so we headed that way after lunch. We made it across, after a few tense moments driving through the flowing water.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">By the way, Matt later ran into the couple that was waiting for three hours (they have a house in Luderitz) and they never did get through. The spent another night in Sesrium.<br /></span></span></p><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"></span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEh2V3oe3kOrYWvkxH21mt86pY2BIXIxDCWZXj5h89pKenPwzWCKOjDt7KS6rTgD_DBWewoETVBtruf7aurDoR92_POi61DYhDuzqBurM4pQOTSFmdX9TTrS2A2ZKnNRtB5W8uCGisnhzgJ-UfOXRKyavDvDLMRIEeHO9bbgrhppJzyKUqtB6qHDgax7=s4032" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2232" data-original-width="4032" height="354" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEh2V3oe3kOrYWvkxH21mt86pY2BIXIxDCWZXj5h89pKenPwzWCKOjDt7KS6rTgD_DBWewoETVBtruf7aurDoR92_POi61DYhDuzqBurM4pQOTSFmdX9TTrS2A2ZKnNRtB5W8uCGisnhzgJ-UfOXRKyavDvDLMRIEeHO9bbgrhppJzyKUqtB6qHDgax7=w640-h354" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><a href="https://www.nationalgeographic.com/travel/article/eerie-fascinating-pictures-kolmanskop-desert-diamond-ghost-town" target="_blank">Kolmanskop</a>, the German diamond mining ghost town</span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Our trip back was punctuated with heavy rain and a tire change. We're still not sure what we hit, but it did a number on our tire and we later ended up having to buy a new one. We were happy to make it back to Luderitz before dark. Despite never making it to Sossusvlei, we were witness to rare and spectacular scenery. We don't know what we missed, but we know that what we saw was beautiful.<br /></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjJIe7fcTwJ8YvnVtAuFilq8xpmnpBrF4PIX6tIypzSHfA0H6Qv7Cx4bEYNRX6k7zt3cSWZH8045PwA70RL03DqWz91AqMhkvHe8BjFdZkDhryip8ObCaoJNlQNRTiWhIkAaxz75EIiJ9YIxaKwDgZmQopRiH465jPNTr-9HPB7m4x9W6omn6j5pE4V=s3504" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2336" data-original-width="3504" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjJIe7fcTwJ8YvnVtAuFilq8xpmnpBrF4PIX6tIypzSHfA0H6Qv7Cx4bEYNRX6k7zt3cSWZH8045PwA70RL03DqWz91AqMhkvHe8BjFdZkDhryip8ObCaoJNlQNRTiWhIkAaxz75EIiJ9YIxaKwDgZmQopRiH465jPNTr-9HPB7m4x9W6omn6j5pE4V=w640-h426" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Though abandoned for many decades, some of the Kolmanskop buildings look better than newer buildings we have seen in various parts of the world<br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"> </span></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We quite like Luderitz and have enjoyed the best <a href="https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g316112-d2562318-Reviews-Barrels_Restaurant_and_Bar-Luderitz_Karas_Region.html" target="_blank">Eisbein</a> we have had yet. The German influences in the architecture and food give the town a European feel (if you keep a narrow focus and ignore the desert just down the block). We spent a morning in <a href="https://www.nationalgeographic.com/travel/article/eerie-fascinating-pictures-kolmanskop-desert-diamond-ghost-town" target="_blank">Kolmanskop</a>, the abandoned diamond mining town that once boasted the largest production of jewelry-grade diamonds and the highest per capita income in the world. All the building material, including sand (in a desert, mind you), was brought in from Germany.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiRB49kT-cyn6bJCxLnGUDIPulhZH7XpJE8eovj7MiWZD1ZY_LPLM9pcjKc1PSE0CmjB1oAx0e0ZvyB4PS78SxLOqIP-lSsTdHinJYOVH6qP5h9vqM4vPb0h_JRym6PbcVCwqIdSxvzjKmzi97KnudbAgISNVD6RYnVtSOjPJIKvlRntvzV95TgZEfn=s3504" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3504" data-original-width="2336" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiRB49kT-cyn6bJCxLnGUDIPulhZH7XpJE8eovj7MiWZD1ZY_LPLM9pcjKc1PSE0CmjB1oAx0e0ZvyB4PS78SxLOqIP-lSsTdHinJYOVH6qP5h9vqM4vPb0h_JRym6PbcVCwqIdSxvzjKmzi97KnudbAgISNVD6RYnVtSOjPJIKvlRntvzV95TgZEfn=w426-h640" width="426" /></a></span></div><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhCNjImxE4G1oon5r-lHAbjU9qQGlnQ472J8UkKH78qcI6yAwH6nwe6dkOo3e6NFiuaxJAzxMdvfj7BicrLxfLDhS50rqPsDsjyP5dor-hkXfIn_yehq-00ysJRp6BIr_ByNfUxQIiDpBe2IDnKvAe3oj9kdo7PaqFCilZDKXUSA_W6ZUKUia5q7KOE=s3504" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2336" data-original-width="3504" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhCNjImxE4G1oon5r-lHAbjU9qQGlnQ472J8UkKH78qcI6yAwH6nwe6dkOo3e6NFiuaxJAzxMdvfj7BicrLxfLDhS50rqPsDsjyP5dor-hkXfIn_yehq-00ysJRp6BIr_ByNfUxQIiDpBe2IDnKvAe3oj9kdo7PaqFCilZDKXUSA_W6ZUKUia5q7KOE=w640-h426" width="640" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiXn_YbUe79ashIcMCik0JAWr3a130SfeAlzhWsg9J8CYlB2Wwxo97RXKeC4-smuz0ZpfMVKHtobRbMg2lnpjZOd6NqNfLy8oW7lHcRQkatEo8qkwgUUyFz201qw2MRF5R0N9Hkp9FL5SQWyd0XxrHKVfMB07U2hPwNgcPAFsXbpvgx5WUOhkpNkBSm=s3504" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2336" data-original-width="3504" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiXn_YbUe79ashIcMCik0JAWr3a130SfeAlzhWsg9J8CYlB2Wwxo97RXKeC4-smuz0ZpfMVKHtobRbMg2lnpjZOd6NqNfLy8oW7lHcRQkatEo8qkwgUUyFz201qw2MRF5R0N9Hkp9FL5SQWyd0XxrHKVfMB07U2hPwNgcPAFsXbpvgx5WUOhkpNkBSm=w640-h426" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: verdana;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiDaVq3hGQdb4zQvTKxEGdVSQG_5KEcvtT6grTpuFuxhNeVaiJikog-iAOXwF9g9L7sJeEqYalZaII5EVXBstu4oXCZ7WFqczRVXFVBRS5TheHiphL_qfxZluxAIs50-e20f8wAqJu0HMynF4AvJdc6SimYWdqPCCnRjKpBbO2Juvvvjo17C4S2Z-g4=s3504" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2336" data-original-width="3504" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiDaVq3hGQdb4zQvTKxEGdVSQG_5KEcvtT6grTpuFuxhNeVaiJikog-iAOXwF9g9L7sJeEqYalZaII5EVXBstu4oXCZ7WFqczRVXFVBRS5TheHiphL_qfxZluxAIs50-e20f8wAqJu0HMynF4AvJdc6SimYWdqPCCnRjKpBbO2Juvvvjo17C4S2Z-g4=w640-h426" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A hallway in the krankenhaus (hospital)<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br />We also spent a day driving the peninsula around Luderitz, which still has diamond mining and processing operations. There are many lovely bays and rocky hills, with seals, penguins, and flamingos.</span></span><p></p><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhK6wd3unmIKzOjk5h80rkecCdbuopxhyX7jS1dt98b4R045XXQ5QgJRv-Ay1u0-DdPANdj2FKLhp40qAsiVjqeeHd65pjNB87fclh6tmKmqNjhwjCHyvQM49TiiNavSmMVvVksCT8lceCtEZk3sKyEwWQewyhM2TVrRjwdl7BOboNLLsmqbNqUpScH=s2889" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1560" data-original-width="2889" height="346" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhK6wd3unmIKzOjk5h80rkecCdbuopxhyX7jS1dt98b4R045XXQ5QgJRv-Ay1u0-DdPANdj2FKLhp40qAsiVjqeeHd65pjNB87fclh6tmKmqNjhwjCHyvQM49TiiNavSmMVvVksCT8lceCtEZk3sKyEwWQewyhM2TVrRjwdl7BOboNLLsmqbNqUpScH=w640-h346" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">The flamingos are not as pink as some but have a lovely color when they fly.<br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"> </span></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">On the sailing front, our trip from Cape Town to Namibia was mostly uneventful, if a bit slow due to a lull in the wind. The <a href="https://theriggingco.com/2016/09/14/a-whisker-pole-system/" target="_blank">whisker pole</a> failed <a href="https://www.svperry.com/2021/06/chagos-to-seychelles.html" target="_blank">again</a>, which Matt has already fixed (hopefully more robustly this time). </span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">The bigger issue on the passage was that our satellite phone connection was nearly unusable, making it essentially impossible to download weather data and emails. With our provider unable/unwilling to help us fix the problem, we were facing an Atlantic crossing without good weather information or reliable communication. </span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Fortunately, our friends Andrew and Leslie on <a href="https://www.oddgodfrey.com/oddlog" target="_blank"><i>Sonrisa,</i></a> who were still in Cape Town, found and bought an Iridium Go! for us and got it to our friends Paul and Chris on <a href="http://svjeorgia.blogspot.com/" target="_blank"><i>Georgia</i></a> before they left Cape Town for Luderitz--all while we were mostly out of cell phone range on our Sossusvlei trip. A few days later<i>, Georgia</i> arrived in Luderitz after a fast and sporty passage and we now have our new Go! in hand. Dave on <a href="https://anjea.info/slog" target="_blank"><i>Anjea</i></a> has been kind enough to sell us the SIM card we need. We have amazing friends and this was one of the times when we have been blessed with good timing. Once we get the Go! working, we can start moving north towards Walvis Bay. The Atlantic crossing gets closer and closer.<br /></span></span></p>SV Perryhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16973086223410951684noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1338862963076957389.post-63686894425442655782022-01-31T00:00:00.019-06:002022-01-31T01:33:53.764-06:00We love Cape Town! But should we?<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgRNWCpDHOnQ5amg6rqdxKkJ2UCvK5uopTd9Vs4lrUlstxUBDBNVnL3ym03WtpZwZYS3dwCm8lr3-yQe0PbDGm8AQgpN6gEK7Zi9xW-5qqTrhQqzYjlixdRf3zsQEsxugCj-e0F-9QmCigUuOHnx8dxa9DjHyxH-4hIIb6gmPQ2iy8-n8OmuAwrLlq-=s2576" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1932" data-original-width="2576" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgRNWCpDHOnQ5amg6rqdxKkJ2UCvK5uopTd9Vs4lrUlstxUBDBNVnL3ym03WtpZwZYS3dwCm8lr3-yQe0PbDGm8AQgpN6gEK7Zi9xW-5qqTrhQqzYjlixdRf3zsQEsxugCj-e0F-9QmCigUuOHnx8dxa9DjHyxH-4hIIb6gmPQ2iy8-n8OmuAwrLlq-=w640-h480" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-size: small;">This is not a great 'ussie' (plural of selfie), but we always forget to take pictures of ourselves so we publish the picture we have, not the one we want. <i>Hout Bay</i>.<br /></span></span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"> </span></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We haven't met one cruiser who doesn't like Cape Town. This is a rarity because we're all different and not everyone likes the same things. The folks that love the remote islands with villagers that come to trade don't always like bars and restaurants that mark the more populated areas and vice versa.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span></span></span></span></p><a name='more'></a><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjA3dNYCMD2kK715Wiv5ZKWXhwb3zrKdzuCKfizCnuPztshMvI-UPR8C7bLOaYIs8j1Yu9OXZNVC7QshxadSvWfZ8A2QQ-eRhDI9ljq3wt8r7K9NYoxE8we61Cr7SCMtmanwptEeBmOnFebtPlcWfeq3O4ZAFEWZLjKFPCeSO94kD68Ir-JbjxolUTD=s4128" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2322" data-original-width="4128" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjA3dNYCMD2kK715Wiv5ZKWXhwb3zrKdzuCKfizCnuPztshMvI-UPR8C7bLOaYIs8j1Yu9OXZNVC7QshxadSvWfZ8A2QQ-eRhDI9ljq3wt8r7K9NYoxE8we61Cr7SCMtmanwptEeBmOnFebtPlcWfeq3O4ZAFEWZLjKFPCeSO94kD68Ir-JbjxolUTD=w640-h360" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Climbing Lion's Head. Table Mountain in the background.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /></span></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Cape Town has it all. The ocean and mountains provide a stunning backdrop to the well-planned city and surrounds. The restaurants are affordable and top-notch. It's easy to drink too much of the locally produced wines, with easily accessible vineyards and reasonably priced bottles. Our cruising friends back home can't needle Matt about being stuck with bad beer (you know who you are). The people are warm and friendly.<br /></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"></span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiBMPVIlo2i2uITnlPf8duogFLhaHgEjmt7TB-a4PFoPKZ6e7GEZDO7x8xGdBS8kk2owcyRi7rfpRaZwKjsvS3cIcaV7DP7bHCwxLN6ubeUNQIES0kpdXi0YWVSH_es9LQcnhm5rmptjosMfFCC6PzqaXuYs0ub0f1sDKTiBshy5XJ8ND2O0dIYMBsz=s4128" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2322" data-original-width="4128" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiBMPVIlo2i2uITnlPf8duogFLhaHgEjmt7TB-a4PFoPKZ6e7GEZDO7x8xGdBS8kk2owcyRi7rfpRaZwKjsvS3cIcaV7DP7bHCwxLN6ubeUNQIES0kpdXi0YWVSH_es9LQcnhm5rmptjosMfFCC6PzqaXuYs0ub0f1sDKTiBshy5XJ8ND2O0dIYMBsz=w640-h360" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Seaforth Beach penguin colony</span><br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"> </span></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">It's not perfect, of course. The <a href="https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwiaqY2f7dn1AhWOlf0HHRxOCMwQFnoECAUQAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.waterfront.co.za%2Fbusiness%2Fmarine%2Fthe-marina%2F&usg=AOvVaw1PpZghiXD3P6kmBDa-jZrr" target="_blank">V&A</a> is sheltered from the many homeless and poor, but they are just outside--in make-shift shelters and holding up signs in traffic and they're in the '<a href="https://www.theguardian.com/cities/2014/apr/30/cape-town-apartheid-ended-still-paradise-few-south-africa" target="_blank">Townships</a>'. The area is not crime-free, though it's hard to gauge how it compares to, say, Chicago. Even just outside the V&A there are many business who will only accept electronic payments to avoid having cash on hand and most residences and business complexes are surrounded by secure fences with barbed and/or electrified wire.<br /></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"></span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEisBlzgKcBVo1PUkr-98IpfG7H01SL55lkF9NylJiGC7oilYSJtBdr2hflcc0rjpomK7dZcdVfx6Z_o9nukaly0cJdZ_7zKdhQ8FeU6CHi7MQxzSppAxBRkPY2Zl6K8V3ueDFMlrVdhLnnKDSw7x7K3LWdYGwA7miaWPf-Q3_qW_CxC1gLx7oQWxiyw=s2884" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2320" data-original-width="2884" height="514" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEisBlzgKcBVo1PUkr-98IpfG7H01SL55lkF9NylJiGC7oilYSJtBdr2hflcc0rjpomK7dZcdVfx6Z_o9nukaly0cJdZ_7zKdhQ8FeU6CHi7MQxzSppAxBRkPY2Zl6K8V3ueDFMlrVdhLnnKDSw7x7K3LWdYGwA7miaWPf-Q3_qW_CxC1gLx7oQWxiyw=w640-h514" width="640" /></a></span></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"> </span></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">And as much as I have enjoyed our time here, it doesn't really feel like we are cruising. Cape Town has provided us a cocoon of ease and luxury after years of being out of our comfort zone in some way. We have had <i>Perry </i>parked in a marina in single place, don't have to put our dinghy up and down, can speak English (the lingua Franca here), are able to walk to grocery stores that stock any food we want, and have a plethora of entertainment options (restaurants, parks, shopping, hiking, vineyards). </span></span><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Conrad has been able <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uyFNtCrwsXQ" target="_blank">to make good use of</a> the shore power and Internet here.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"></span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEirvCbNWmC_0E7syxtToZu5nbHyNE7kqGvg0pIx9YScaegGIoFTIHcBW2lI6lNkUU5jnrnhL-r09dymdElbognJTQfJkubRkKMCFmVH0PiN1rK-m3iHsl9Z7AWIJ1WW8XVZVF-6qv1dKhciRyaf6YWT5-hJcPobPgOe1VxlbSds9aS15uy7jvjxarzs=s4128" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2322" data-original-width="4128" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEirvCbNWmC_0E7syxtToZu5nbHyNE7kqGvg0pIx9YScaegGIoFTIHcBW2lI6lNkUU5jnrnhL-r09dymdElbognJTQfJkubRkKMCFmVH0PiN1rK-m3iHsl9Z7AWIJ1WW8XVZVF-6qv1dKhciRyaf6YWT5-hJcPobPgOe1VxlbSds9aS15uy7jvjxarzs=w640-h360" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-size: small;">The colorful houses of Bo Kaap (previously The Malay Quarter)</span></span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"> </span></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"></span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhUBvQkBnm1Vk04CyUKYIXdoaZOI2LBemAkszWPGhRp2BNSQiS7galOxDpiKYhFzeazr71v3KKpvG-A3FGUnBhY-NlnPM2WbplT5GCBGtkho4yx_E9bFYAiakd5-UEoXjRD_147Im-3ymk7FjmJEadvhFcSveDWCfxUBHRuQIk2eD7dbxocnY1s6boq=s4032" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhUBvQkBnm1Vk04CyUKYIXdoaZOI2LBemAkszWPGhRp2BNSQiS7galOxDpiKYhFzeazr71v3KKpvG-A3FGUnBhY-NlnPM2WbplT5GCBGtkho4yx_E9bFYAiakd5-UEoXjRD_147Im-3ymk7FjmJEadvhFcSveDWCfxUBHRuQIk2eD7dbxocnY1s6boq=w640-h480" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-size: small;">Dungeons in Hout Bay can be a world-class surf break when the conditions are right (usually during the Winter months).</span></span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We have met several boats who are just starting their cruising adventures. The <a href="https://www.robertsonandcaine.com/" target="_blank">Robertson and Caine</a> factory and several other boat builders are here and the docks near our boat are lined with shiny new cats whose owners or crew are busy preparing to leave. Their excitement and energy is a bit infectious. Living in this world-class, yet affordable-to-us city is in some ways a dream come true, but the urge to push on and to be closer to our families is bubbling to the surface. Weather permitting, we will leave for Namibia in about a week. After Namibia, we plan sail to St. Helena, Ascension Island, and Trinidad (to fix the paint marred by the concrete wall in Galle Harbour). There's a lot of ocean to cover between here and there.<br /></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"></span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgXD7SR_8SrGNkainQklQtlQVOVTRBINq0w8Y51blgmrKNO-iOw6E65VZfHkGmxgEocmP2-7xItwvP_ixl-tmGNzqXHUN9QRa-lyvrbcXdLvg2qRhFG0ydtYrSysWY-j1MfV1wg65lA-5M2lLD68KpMgpz5ZiLlUt7Q1lbhsMZx80pKgLvf_X9ofGex=s4128" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2322" data-original-width="4128" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgXD7SR_8SrGNkainQklQtlQVOVTRBINq0w8Y51blgmrKNO-iOw6E65VZfHkGmxgEocmP2-7xItwvP_ixl-tmGNzqXHUN9QRa-lyvrbcXdLvg2qRhFG0ydtYrSysWY-j1MfV1wg65lA-5M2lLD68KpMgpz5ZiLlUt7Q1lbhsMZx80pKgLvf_X9ofGex=w640-h360" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Workers leaving the vineyards at Groot Constantia</span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><br /> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiVhO-D50EtkCA4NtRpSX2PtQlA5NuttRb5rVJPooc2WxGx7xlhLru__fCQP0v_0gf_AFXlmQjjNj1koONnajRjXMh6_bpyukwTK72se8bFBu-0Btso4ZbkZdFGahVlDtxepnOpCycNI1ogqpuoI0OPvPfqXsvOH4Vcpjyf-2UqjHr6uzksdZKXIW1k=s4128" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2322" data-original-width="4128" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiVhO-D50EtkCA4NtRpSX2PtQlA5NuttRb5rVJPooc2WxGx7xlhLru__fCQP0v_0gf_AFXlmQjjNj1koONnajRjXMh6_bpyukwTK72se8bFBu-0Btso4ZbkZdFGahVlDtxepnOpCycNI1ogqpuoI0OPvPfqXsvOH4Vcpjyf-2UqjHr6uzksdZKXIW1k=w640-h360" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The old Ford in question (see the bottle of Port pictured below)<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /></span></span><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhnoN7ZEGPwGrxm06PV4o8jij7KSqvsZJD2ZfDgc1zp9emtWgFYm_t6R_q-X_oQjGIwTF5i41MG1ivk_0uVI7SftvADS7bCzpFiPh27iAGrBRzY10ZLBjExSwJql8mgwB4fZsPw-sWH8npeQnLddVD6iIMFtgNdIgLuvLTemWV5bFCW9apyKZuY1jio=s3660" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2316" data-original-width="3660" height="404" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhnoN7ZEGPwGrxm06PV4o8jij7KSqvsZJD2ZfDgc1zp9emtWgFYm_t6R_q-X_oQjGIwTF5i41MG1ivk_0uVI7SftvADS7bCzpFiPh27iAGrBRzY10ZLBjExSwJql8mgwB4fZsPw-sWH8npeQnLddVD6iIMFtgNdIgLuvLTemWV5bFCW9apyKZuY1jio=w640-h404" width="640" /></a></span></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEg-uS3r4Wl0xWRWV6Zb9a55aMip2cRZKfmgGb_FUFzHfC2XqB1PzbuBILdgZBn4z3FJFeD1evshh3lxlaaHLLBzeRaWyIU_6uhwJ7uTlBBbPG1sF1mlYj3MF5-yPmcVRbwE2QNx77QGzeAXF4Gsg1aX5XuUPCTcyqJJi0kPQiLYDwMk7jABys0ema2Z=s3654" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2322" data-original-width="3654" height="406" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEg-uS3r4Wl0xWRWV6Zb9a55aMip2cRZKfmgGb_FUFzHfC2XqB1PzbuBILdgZBn4z3FJFeD1evshh3lxlaaHLLBzeRaWyIU_6uhwJ7uTlBBbPG1sF1mlYj3MF5-yPmcVRbwE2QNx77QGzeAXF4Gsg1aX5XuUPCTcyqJJi0kPQiLYDwMk7jABys0ema2Z=w640-h406" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Eikehof Wynes (Eike is Dutch for oak)<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiX4bV5nyPwQzxbVh_M6Mm_hwozKgZJEehGP0Q8BX78Z4E2X3Ad_Yihbn2-dlojUKhon-6MRLnmub9LmPSxZOfTbOsxtkr-kTQCpbaJD40xC3W-ew98LSnpIu6moudCjQu-EEce87sJ6OI8eqlEmwOka0UCbd6xckn1n7NmAEkPQJQzOL4GoPUlb07Q=s3276" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2304" data-original-width="3276" height="450" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiX4bV5nyPwQzxbVh_M6Mm_hwozKgZJEehGP0Q8BX78Z4E2X3Ad_Yihbn2-dlojUKhon-6MRLnmub9LmPSxZOfTbOsxtkr-kTQCpbaJD40xC3W-ew98LSnpIu6moudCjQu-EEce87sJ6OI8eqlEmwOka0UCbd6xckn1n7NmAEkPQJQzOL4GoPUlb07Q=w640-h450" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An Eikehof Wynes ostrich<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgNeQAwg09pWRVxFkpq8FL1RxrWIMLYbLdkAsCWKtHHPhbEp7YzknF-P4Rv-bXRUi2bMfVBg-lobuwp9HEwk1lZO-mXg1LCtdiRPetgmcKAR-xLRBTCOjBQlCPQzcmaaIupkZjKOTHNlDCjmiZ01FzhULi23_BOfNwkiISvX87cEaQXjd9sx9I4iApY=s3510" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2322" data-original-width="3510" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgNeQAwg09pWRVxFkpq8FL1RxrWIMLYbLdkAsCWKtHHPhbEp7YzknF-P4Rv-bXRUi2bMfVBg-lobuwp9HEwk1lZO-mXg1LCtdiRPetgmcKAR-xLRBTCOjBQlCPQzcmaaIupkZjKOTHNlDCjmiZ01FzhULi23_BOfNwkiISvX87cEaQXjd9sx9I4iApY=w640-h424" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Part of the Chef's tasting menu at <span class="ILfuVd"><span class="hgKElc">Protégé Restaurant<br /></span></span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiVxZ_-STA0eDTRO-bUbCPcSQLEKszYWNTbyUIvy4RF9iwKB9z8xepPYrX7uYC23eKKL7keiVq0nWE6DXcfAdnWxrItuYCWlB80xHhUzEqYanpRNL6nsqBf-8MlfWjGbMu3jysdLgW0D6_9yddMhuz6XRPgf7WdT-a3kYshrUHhEGGE_KGjEqCdwYdP=s4128" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2322" data-original-width="4128" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiVxZ_-STA0eDTRO-bUbCPcSQLEKszYWNTbyUIvy4RF9iwKB9z8xepPYrX7uYC23eKKL7keiVq0nWE6DXcfAdnWxrItuYCWlB80xHhUzEqYanpRNL6nsqBf-8MlfWjGbMu3jysdLgW0D6_9yddMhuz6XRPgf7WdT-a3kYshrUHhEGGE_KGjEqCdwYdP=w640-h360" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Grand Provence Heritage Wine Estate<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEh4-EvBBGzmFp_iIVXw31gjh8iQOSrSnSEPneZ27JkVfqqpGE95k2uCMS3eK2thJbXh01Tx3_FXeC2PcTBHAI7Hp2YHlHlG9FxK4VajC-terW74MnjqOsESGkV-kv8yWpggSlt0gKqlQKkWBJmhdfbcz365ID-7beTE034ZemYyeci7iq7u5HllecNl=s1552" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1068" data-original-width="1552" height="440" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEh4-EvBBGzmFp_iIVXw31gjh8iQOSrSnSEPneZ27JkVfqqpGE95k2uCMS3eK2thJbXh01Tx3_FXeC2PcTBHAI7Hp2YHlHlG9FxK4VajC-terW74MnjqOsESGkV-kv8yWpggSlt0gKqlQKkWBJmhdfbcz365ID-7beTE034ZemYyeci7iq7u5HllecNl=w640-h440" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">'<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sabrage" target="_blank">Sabrage</a>' demonstration at Haute Cabriere. Another use for our machete.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table></span></span> <br /><p></p>SV Perryhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16973086223410951684noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1338862963076957389.post-69405248213516718312021-12-31T00:00:00.030-06:002021-12-31T00:00:00.160-06:00Cape Town for Christmas<p> </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjEcI3Yi6XPUDDMBlekYV1bWaEfhbJRHjVAXPeN5SydwuINd2vtZZeCre0LJ2D2MA2qEV-FuY3_7TRwEs8k7ULsIO38NIkm3JBDgK5kxa_YZ4Gp2GHD2ZLjWOMIBRMEyv9u70wxcfO4fiym2Aa24BBFhk2U1gRSYvWulhVZN2IUlYe6MGJKlElIhu1P=s4128" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2322" data-original-width="4128" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjEcI3Yi6XPUDDMBlekYV1bWaEfhbJRHjVAXPeN5SydwuINd2vtZZeCre0LJ2D2MA2qEV-FuY3_7TRwEs8k7ULsIO38NIkm3JBDgK5kxa_YZ4Gp2GHD2ZLjWOMIBRMEyv9u70wxcfO4fiym2Aa24BBFhk2U1gRSYvWulhVZN2IUlYe6MGJKlElIhu1P=w640-h360" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">The top of Signal Hill with Table Mountain in the background<br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p></p><p> <span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">'Cape Town for Christmas' has been our mantra--repeated amongst almost every cruiser headed this way--for so long that it was hard to believe that we were actually here (in time for Christmas, with a day to spare). <br /></span></span></p><a name='more'></a><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiDfBRzMpd8DpInkWDk-RIjSPypQZiu1g1ajwH6BDAuvoQA_SyegbMxEaWysP4hkTUu4Wd-0USnO42dJ4-k5wPXMyvsyxf85EfgN6yUPS6eX58tJsvZsZRgmYRgbvIY87ZWvpZNvzZbfhd-fxYtDsBxTHH1jtGfTO-MGZS8UnxQ6hH6Dybn5GkgocYp=s3324" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1443" data-original-width="3324" height="278" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiDfBRzMpd8DpInkWDk-RIjSPypQZiu1g1ajwH6BDAuvoQA_SyegbMxEaWysP4hkTUu4Wd-0USnO42dJ4-k5wPXMyvsyxf85EfgN6yUPS6eX58tJsvZsZRgmYRgbvIY87ZWvpZNvzZbfhd-fxYtDsBxTHH1jtGfTO-MGZS8UnxQ6hH6Dybn5GkgocYp=w640-h278" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Getting excited about the one harbor seal in Knysna seems so quaint now.<br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><span style="font-family: verdana;">Like many hard-won goals, the journey was just as significant as the end-result. Actually, there was hardly any evidence of Christmas at all here in Cape Town besides a smallish tree and the odd decoration. Even <a href="https://www.svperry.com/2019/12/now-what.html" target="_blank">Muslim Malaysia </a>was more 'Christmas-y', with loads of decorations and Christmas music.</span></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiEDUI2s0Sq1Rh30eStaccu4GR79IoLSE1zhVnfZPOldqoNDWiCUhobh6hc-vTiZPiP5oHsZPmpJZKD7WNq2fEc5XxyPHEVf6RiqMKnbsPvReZAxa2YT0O7S-WrIdMv5xafGrfv6yqc-EBEjgqdseubqBgM4y74C5tiHouWrI1N_Ksey319LvzefisA=s4128" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2322" data-original-width="4128" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiEDUI2s0Sq1Rh30eStaccu4GR79IoLSE1zhVnfZPOldqoNDWiCUhobh6hc-vTiZPiP5oHsZPmpJZKD7WNq2fEc5XxyPHEVf6RiqMKnbsPvReZAxa2YT0O7S-WrIdMv5xafGrfv6yqc-EBEjgqdseubqBgM4y74C5tiHouWrI1N_Ksey319LvzefisA=w640-h360" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">View from Signal Hill<br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><span style="font-family: verdana;"></span></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">There was holiday socializing aplenty: we had eggnog and watched <i>How the Grinch Stole Christmas</i> on <i>Perry </i>with <a href="https://www.oddgodfrey.com/oddlog" target="_blank">Sonrisa</a>'s projector, enjoyed a happy-hour get together with all the other cruisers</span></span><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"> with oysters provided by <i>Ohana</i> and <i>Dafne 2</i>, and <a href="https://www.oddgodfrey.com/oddlog" target="_blank">Sonrisa</a> hosted an upscale Christmas morning dock breakfast. Unfortunately, on Christmas morning itself, Matt was laid out with a stomach bug but we had a pleasant, low-key day.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"></span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhxztyFAFIdrNnESyyykoPVEPJ44Qa3ISKIR_CaJIBnpWUDs99pcNiwcqVH-QT5qMterJuHUw3U6m_OUw2xVIllQQDtbWKu4b0gh5atewYIaAVrBwOmbIM7NjRBuEFALV9Jd7mxOah2r7eBzdoMgIoIZ2WHeMT7cU3U6lOK_-boqrPhOVTbX8k6ut2z=s1194" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="758" data-original-width="1194" height="406" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhxztyFAFIdrNnESyyykoPVEPJ44Qa3ISKIR_CaJIBnpWUDs99pcNiwcqVH-QT5qMterJuHUw3U6m_OUw2xVIllQQDtbWKu4b0gh5atewYIaAVrBwOmbIM7NjRBuEFALV9Jd7mxOah2r7eBzdoMgIoIZ2WHeMT7cU3U6lOK_-boqrPhOVTbX8k6ut2z=w640-h406" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">The <a href="https://www.capetown.travel/signal-hill-noon-gun/" target="_blank">cannon </a>fires every day at noon. Yes, it's loud.</span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><br /></span></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">The journey to Cape Town from <a href="https://www.svperry.com/2021/12/whether-to-weather-weather.html" target="_blank">Knysna</a> marked the end of our stint in the Indian Ocean. We have officially ranked the <a href="https://www.svperry.com/2021/11/cashew-gesundheit-also-south-africa.html" target="_blank">Indian Ocean</a> as the third favorite of the three Oceans we have sailed in due to its usual combination of large and confused seas (we might even rank it 4th, just on principle alone). Ironically, the worst part of our leg from Knysna to Cape Town was after we had crossed the invisible line into the Atlantic Ocean. With Cape Town almost in view and most of the passage complete, I was starting to feel pretty good about having 'completed' our journey past the southernmost point of the continent. The wind had filled in nicely and we were sailing along at a nice clip after having been so light that we had to motor for a good part of the prior evening.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhWceI2he5J3JEyotsjUC80QVwMqnh4ENHIGaIdCDdS-WhxiyWCJ1Pfh7YQKw3err44o2G_2Y7kjqDd3k1S3nh2IqNSFcnHqCO3Mn1YZknLbXgJYqFS0NhYlIcyk2bCTLOjDGgJCPMQ-U0TTKC72uoU9C3SzHEUzhdgDr1_FvN6FWiiG5E1W361X7iL=s4128" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1740" data-original-width="4128" height="270" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhWceI2he5J3JEyotsjUC80QVwMqnh4ENHIGaIdCDdS-WhxiyWCJ1Pfh7YQKw3err44o2G_2Y7kjqDd3k1S3nh2IqNSFcnHqCO3Mn1YZknLbXgJYqFS0NhYlIcyk2bCTLOjDGgJCPMQ-U0TTKC72uoU9C3SzHEUzhdgDr1_FvN6FWiiG5E1W361X7iL=w640-h270" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Skate park with Table Mountain as a backdrop<br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><span style="font-family: verdana;">But as we passed Hout Bay, the winds started to pick up and kept getting progressively stronger. When Table Mountain came into view, we could see the '<a href="https://www.goworldtravel.com/tablecloth-table-mountain-south-africa/" target="_blank">tablecloth' </a>(the sheath of clouds that sometimes blankets the mountain) being pushed down its side by <a href="https://www.britannica.com/science/katabatic-wind" target="_blank">katabatic</a> winds. After breaking our <a href="https://www.svperry.com/2020/03/galle-sri-lanka.html" target="_blank">mainsail batten</a> recently too many times with strong and unpredictable winds, we decided to douse the already triple-reefed sails and motor in. </span></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">For the next hour, <i>Perry </i>was tossed around by confused seas surpassing our trip from <a href="https://www.svperry.com/2014/12/curacao-to-cartagena.html" target="_blank">Curacao to Cartagena</a>. There were sustained winds of 40 knots with at least one 57-knot gust. We broke dishes that have lived unscathed on <i>Perry </i>for nine years because of the weird way the waves jerked the boat around. Matt and Conrad were soaked by waves as they stood in the cockpit, which is unusual on <i>Perry</i>. This last battering by the local ocean was mostly just uncomfortable rather than dangerous but we were relieved as we entered the calm waters of the port just before sundown.<br /></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEj5oI_w5V1aVEqf4ZJL_gWOhhNpBk5t0XZheGzU1R6OcKfJ05qjUoWz8vfFIE94bxGvRbFI1uzK49sfTg-tyz67iOwVfSwjw4Olxv9djJq1JssuaevzzJySGl_Il__AVemn-73SkbMuxFiST4ALabtlPaLAAJrViBJgJNWYMSZM6uK2jORzGPqASQvB=s1280" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="962" data-original-width="1280" height="482" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEj5oI_w5V1aVEqf4ZJL_gWOhhNpBk5t0XZheGzU1R6OcKfJ05qjUoWz8vfFIE94bxGvRbFI1uzK49sfTg-tyz67iOwVfSwjw4Olxv9djJq1JssuaevzzJySGl_Il__AVemn-73SkbMuxFiST4ALabtlPaLAAJrViBJgJNWYMSZM6uK2jORzGPqASQvB=w640-h482" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Mark and Conrad finally together again with these guys<br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"> </span></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">As it turned out, we had bad timing, bad luck, or both. Boats that came into Cape Town earlier in the afternoon and the following morning had completely calm seas. On our approach, we were lucky enough to see a penguin and breaching humpbacks in the midst of dozens of seals and dolphins.<br /></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We have been enjoying the <a href="https://www.waterfront.co.za/" target="_blank">V&A Waterfront</a>, which has the feel of Disneyland without the rides (though there is the giant, slow-moving Ferris wheel). Shopping isn't our thing, but it is a luxury to be within walking distance of a grocery store that has pretty much everything. We have also taken advantage of a few of the many restaurants, rationalizing that we went so long without eating out that we can afford to splurge a bit. This is the kind of thinking of course that will drain our bank account and give me ulcers. But the delicacies beckon.<br /></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We are ticking boat projects from our list and at some point will rent a car to play tourist. This is wine country (and our dollar goes a long way in South Africa). Wine tasting is almost a sport here and the vineyards resemble Napa Valley. We also want to go to the top of Table Mountain, see penguins (the <a href="https://www.svperry.com/2015/04/bella-isabela.html" target="_blank">last ones we saw</a>--besides the guy en route--were in the Galapagos), and a hundred other things. One thing we are not planning to do is swim in the 56-degree Fahrenheit water.*</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">*Matt and Conrad considered doing a Great White shark cage dive, but killer whales have mostly <a href="https://boksburgadvertiser.co.za/425416/a-story-of-survival/" target="_blank">chased them away</a> from the area. <br /></span></span></p>SV Perryhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16973086223410951684noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1338862963076957389.post-15338291958026222002021-12-14T00:00:00.041-06:002021-12-14T00:00:00.196-06:00Whether to weather the weather<p><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uQkPpSF41ig/Ybcl9oxqFiI/AAAAAAAAMa0/oQKR6zC_uNwg9pL3ecWK1MYv7HXfg3JbgCPcBGAsYHg/s2588/Caracal.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1688" data-original-width="2588" height="418" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uQkPpSF41ig/Ybcl9oxqFiI/AAAAAAAAMa0/oQKR6zC_uNwg9pL3ecWK1MYv7HXfg3JbgCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h418/Caracal.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Caracal (Kruger National Park)<br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><span style="font-family: verdana;"></span></span><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Richards Bay was a joy to us after our passage from
Tanzania. We reveled in the abundance of fresh produce, good wine, quality beef, and the
friendly people. <a href="https://www.zyc.co.za/" target="_blank">Zululand Yacht Club</a>, besides
being possibly the most affordable marina anywhere, went to great lengths to
accommodate the influx of cruising yachts and even presented each International boat
with a bottle of champagne. With all the cruisers around, there were plenty of
opportunities to socialize (<a href="https://theculturetrip.com/africa/south-africa/articles/10-reasons-why-south-african-braais-are-better-than-bbqs/" target="_blank">braai</a>, anyone?). We even had enough Americans (and
honorary Americans) and turkey for a Pilgrim-sized Thanksgiving dinner. <span></span></span></span></p><a name='more'></a><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jLDsyiQlSGA/YbcnCL3WbHI/AAAAAAAAMa8/13FHvx5nCm4Q2GU7avQisvSZnGQb2l83QCPcBGAsYHg/s3496/Elephants%2Bin%2Bwater.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1848" data-original-width="3496" height="338" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jLDsyiQlSGA/YbcnCL3WbHI/AAAAAAAAMa8/13FHvx5nCm4Q2GU7avQisvSZnGQb2l83QCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h338/Elephants%2Bin%2Bwater.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Elephants frolicking and bickering (Kruger National Park)<br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><span style="font-family: verdana;"></span></span><p></p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">
</span></span><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">It was a good thing that Richards Bay was a pleasant place to be, as it became a bit of a bottleneck for cruisers headed to Cape
Town. Everyone was waiting for a decent weather window which never seemed to materialize.
The run from Richards Bay to Cape Town is one of the most challenging routes in
the world because of the <a href="https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwij7bjlz-D0AhV1oFwKHbYbAFcQFnoECBoQAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.britannica.com%2Fplace%2FAgulhas-Current&usg=AOvVaw3dco2468a6RHvOxzLjMW6W" target="_blank">Agulhas current</a> (a SW running current that can reach 6 knots), unpredictable weather patterns, and a lack of good anchorages
to stop along the way. The combination of the current and gales from the wrong direction can be dangerous. </span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Fortunately, with good weather forecasting available and
lots of wisdom (such as the locally known and colorful <a href="https://oceancruisingclub.org/home/prizewinner/378" target="_blank">Des Cason</a> who
volunteers to advise cruisers like us</span></span><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">), you have plenty of information
available to let you know when the going is good. But no amount of analysis is going to
change bad weather to good, so we (and lots of our cruising friends) waited. And
waited.</span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"></span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rnsH79gegTY/YbcogTlV4_I/AAAAAAAAMbI/wKI61PxkGOgO-07Y-Hj9vY6GoCoXj0OqwCPcBGAsYHg/s2476/Leopard.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1840" data-original-width="2476" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rnsH79gegTY/YbcogTlV4_I/AAAAAAAAMbI/wKI61PxkGOgO-07Y-Hj9vY6GoCoXj0OqwCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h476/Leopard.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Our luck at spotting leopards continues</span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"> </span></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">While we were waiting, we decided to take a short road trip
to Kruger National Park and Blyde River Canyon. We saw a lot of animals during our <a href="https://www.vw.co.za/en/models/polo.html" target="_blank">economy car</a> self-drive through Kruger. Even though there weren't anywhere near the numbers of animals compared to <a href="https://www.svperry.com/2021/10/safari-in-tanzania.html" target="_blank">Tanzania</a>, there were several that we
hadn't seen before. A highlight was the <a href="https://animals.sandiegozoo.org/animals/dung-beetle" target="_blank">dung beetles</a>, which are hilarious in
real life (especially 3 beetles fighting over one dung ball). We stayed at a campsite in the park with a resident warthog and hyenas howling at night. We also experienced a half-hour thunderstorm where we were pelted with near golf-ball
sized hail that we were certain would dent up the rental car (luckily it didn't).</span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"></span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-48BJy-ojjuA/YbcpLtCd2YI/AAAAAAAAMbQ/z0q3j4Drh68gn7ptrKTZLUaMH05N58U-QCPcBGAsYHg/s1944/Thunderbird.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1944" data-original-width="1244" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-48BJy-ojjuA/YbcpLtCd2YI/AAAAAAAAMbQ/z0q3j4Drh68gn7ptrKTZLUaMH05N58U-QCPcBGAsYHg/w410-h640/Thunderbird.JPG" width="410" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Thunderbird (ground horn-bill)</span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><br /></span></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"></span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9Vu3pBUBDuw/YbcplGXzeII/AAAAAAAAMbY/h9ul3cJkADEPPdeffadLcvbOpO9faX1lwCPcBGAsYHg/s2892/Saddle-billed%2Bstork.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2276" data-original-width="2892" height="504" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9Vu3pBUBDuw/YbcplGXzeII/AAAAAAAAMbY/h9ul3cJkADEPPdeffadLcvbOpO9faX1lwCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h504/Saddle-billed%2Bstork.JPG" width="640" /></a></td><td style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Saddle-billed stork</span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ohu901LtPNY/YbcplFvDDWI/AAAAAAAAMbY/m0aZqmF4ok0-aiGyLN3ZB3BRoU1TduSigCPcBGAsYHg/s2684/Hawk.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1792" data-original-width="2684" height="428" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ohu901LtPNY/YbcplFvDDWI/AAAAAAAAMbY/m0aZqmF4ok0-aiGyLN3ZB3BRoU1TduSigCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h428/Hawk.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"> <br /></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"></span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GKPzrfHnoj0/YbcqQbS8tcI/AAAAAAAAMbk/blHch9_KPF8E6c2dmOrVfHyX0MqDdxauQCPcBGAsYHg/s2908/Hyena.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1772" data-original-width="2908" height="390" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GKPzrfHnoj0/YbcqQbS8tcI/AAAAAAAAMbk/blHch9_KPF8E6c2dmOrVfHyX0MqDdxauQCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h390/Hyena.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Why did the hyena cross the road? Maybe he didn't...</span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AkOh7yvjt_M/Ybcq5T0Y3OI/AAAAAAAAMbw/_dtGgZ2NLBwEAmYwYvQbbDOOLpIhud9VwCPcBGAsYHg/s2812/Turtles.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1732" data-original-width="2812" height="394" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AkOh7yvjt_M/Ybcq5T0Y3OI/AAAAAAAAMbw/_dtGgZ2NLBwEAmYwYvQbbDOOLpIhud9VwCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h394/Turtles.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Love is in the air (the smaller one is the male)</span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RvCaP3JwSog/YbcqwpVJQZI/AAAAAAAAMbs/0-USe48A360glsLeE9_8IuVkDxeF4VqmACPcBGAsYHg/s3504/Greater%2Bkudu.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2336" data-original-width="3504" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RvCaP3JwSog/YbcqwpVJQZI/AAAAAAAAMbs/0-USe48A360glsLeE9_8IuVkDxeF4VqmACPcBGAsYHg/w640-h426/Greater%2Bkudu.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Greater kudu<br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-size: medium;"> </span></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><a href="https://www.nature-reserve.co.za/blyde-river-canyon-natural-preserve.html" target="_blank">Blyde RiverCanyon</a> was like a mini-Grand Canyon. We spent a day taking in its highlights and stretching our driving-atrophied limbs before heading back to <a href="http://www.svperry.com" target="_blank"><i>Perry</i></a>. As luck would have it, a weather window
opened up for the day after we returned to Richards Bay. So we set about
checking out of Richards Bay (which involved visiting four government offices and an
impressive amount of paperwork, including a sketch of our boat and a diagram of
the route we were going to take), getting diesel, shopping for groceries, and
cooking a few passage meals.</span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fyLj7BBg2vE/Ybcu2AGv5pI/AAAAAAAAMcc/WwL6bqUMcvAwcrz2UV7t4VZteYm8JN9pACPcBGAsYHg/s3504/Blyde%2BRiver%2BCanyon%2Bfrom%2Bpotholes.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2336" data-original-width="3504" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fyLj7BBg2vE/Ybcu2AGv5pI/AAAAAAAAMcc/WwL6bqUMcvAwcrz2UV7t4VZteYm8JN9pACPcBGAsYHg/w640-h426/Blyde%2BRiver%2BCanyon%2Bfrom%2Bpotholes.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eeEiN_aBBwk/Ybcu2IKjmpI/AAAAAAAAMcc/OgCARlUzWwoGYQ_s6unEBnSyk1YHnn7pACPcBGAsYHg/s3504/Blyde%2Bpotholes.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2336" data-original-width="3504" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eeEiN_aBBwk/Ybcu2IKjmpI/AAAAAAAAMcc/OgCARlUzWwoGYQ_s6unEBnSyk1YHnn7pACPcBGAsYHg/w640-h426/Blyde%2Bpotholes.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Bourke's Luck 'potholes'<br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UUkjRak-4_A/Ybcu2PB3BJI/AAAAAAAAMcc/kTOBuWiID_MOXJQAMRa3NoJKxWHvcvO8ACPcBGAsYHg/s3504/Pools%2Bat%2Bpotholes.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2336" data-original-width="3504" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UUkjRak-4_A/Ybcu2PB3BJI/AAAAAAAAMcc/kTOBuWiID_MOXJQAMRa3NoJKxWHvcvO8ACPcBGAsYHg/w640-h426/Pools%2Bat%2Bpotholes.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1qpn-ccpFyw/Ybcu2MINrsI/AAAAAAAAMcc/_D5oqCFTF5ASA5mzAQ4vJAFz0fyk8vVdgCPcBGAsYHg/s3504/Blyde%2BRiver%2BCanyon%2Bview.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2336" data-original-width="3504" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1qpn-ccpFyw/Ybcu2MINrsI/AAAAAAAAMcc/_D5oqCFTF5ASA5mzAQ4vJAFz0fyk8vVdgCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h426/Blyde%2BRiver%2BCanyon%2Bview.JPG" width="640" /></a></div></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-luJ6n6iNaRQ/YbcvIan2hmI/AAAAAAAAMck/-HwymgKhtjQbmkiAGeTcLqITUQabBeBvwCPcBGAsYHg/s3504/Three%2Brondavels%2B-%2BM%2Band%2BC.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2336" data-original-width="3504" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-luJ6n6iNaRQ/YbcvIan2hmI/AAAAAAAAMck/-HwymgKhtjQbmkiAGeTcLqITUQabBeBvwCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h426/Three%2Brondavels%2B-%2BM%2Band%2BC.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">The Three Rondavels viewpoint<br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><span style="font-family: verdana;">After buying some takeaway chicken dinners from the Zululand Yacht Club, we set off shortly after 5 p.m. for the 350-nautical mile journey
to East London. To make it to East London before the next weather front, we had to
leave right after the southerly winds had slowed, not allowing the kicked up seas time to subside. Our
passage from Richards Bay to East London was fairly miserable. </span></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Atypically, both Matt and I
got sick the first night (it may be a while before Matt will eat Peri Peri
chicken again). Other than a brief period of downwind
sailing, we had confused and large seas the whole passage. It was a relief to make it to
East London. Unfortunately, we had to wait outside the harbor for an hour while tug boats
navigated a big tanker out of the harbor. That made us two for two in having to wait for boat
traffic before port control would clear us in (we had previously waited outside Richards Bay for
two hours when we arrived to South Africa). <a href="https://web.facebook.com/ErieSpirit/?_rdc=1&_rdr" target="_blank"><i>Erie Spirit</i></a> now refuses to
follow us into a port because of our bad luck in this department.</span></span></p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">
</span></span><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">East London is a small rural area and the Buffalo River
Yacht Club was very welcoming and friendly. We got mixed messages from locals about whether
or not it was safe to walk from the yacht club to the other side of the river.
However, at least one restaurant told us they stopped delivering pizzas to the club
because their drivers kept getting mugged. We lived in Chicago for years
without ever being mugged, so while all the talk of mugging since we have
gotten to South Africa is a bit unsettling, it's hard to gauge how worried we
should actually be since half of the warnings seem to come from taxi drivers with a vested interest in keeping us from walking!<br /></span></span></p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">
</span></span><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">From East London, we headed to Knysna (pronounced
'nice-nah'), considered one of the <a href="https://www.nationalgeographic.com/travel/article/partner-content-ultimate-road-trip-garden-route" target="_blank">most scenic places </a>in South Africa. This
passage was better. Considering the constant chilly drizzle and having to
run the motor for half a day, you can see how low the bar is for a good
passage these days. We had considered skipping Knysna because the narrow entrance can
be tricky in the wrong conditions. Below is a satellite image of the entrance to the harbor on a typical day. Generally, you want to avoid the white foamy areas so you don't want to do it when it's all white foamy areas.<br /></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"></span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FQCd9bL6cLQ/Ybcrxp_c4VI/AAAAAAAAMb8/oKGY94rCMowA6y8exJ5wbUPkZel7F_szQCPcBGAsYHg/s1234/Knysna%2Bentrance%2B-%2Bsat%2Bview.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="568" data-original-width="1234" height="294" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FQCd9bL6cLQ/Ybcrxp_c4VI/AAAAAAAAMb8/oKGY94rCMowA6y8exJ5wbUPkZel7F_szQCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h294/Knysna%2Bentrance%2B-%2Bsat%2Bview.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"> </span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We took the advice of Mike at the Knysna Yacht Club and timed our journey to arrive about an hour before high tide to avoid breaking waves and adverse current. <i>Sonrisa </i>and then <i>Erie Spirit </i>led the way into the the forbidding fog. Our timing was right and we all made it through unscathed.<br /></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TCFsSPW5bcM/YbctXTDZB9I/AAAAAAAAMcI/oSQdwMP6Au4gBJYktpZftzMS0jQ4l5SAACPcBGAsYHg/s4128/Knysna%2Bentrance.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2322" data-original-width="4128" height="360" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TCFsSPW5bcM/YbctXTDZB9I/AAAAAAAAMcI/oSQdwMP6Au4gBJYktpZftzMS0jQ4l5SAACPcBGAsYHg/w640-h360/Knysna%2Bentrance.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Fog at the headlands ('The Heads'). Seeing where you're going is overrated.<br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></div><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LaHdrUCiu1w/Ybctmh1jsnI/AAAAAAAAMcM/wTvRS3DbGTgkGJCcgnRkUYcWCMXeADyzACPcBGAsYHg/s3474/Matt%2Bat%2BKnysna%2Bentrance.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2316" data-original-width="3474" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LaHdrUCiu1w/Ybctmh1jsnI/AAAAAAAAMcM/wTvRS3DbGTgkGJCcgnRkUYcWCMXeADyzACPcBGAsYHg/w640-h426/Matt%2Bat%2BKnysna%2Bentrance.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Over the hump<br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"></span></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Kynsna is a beautiful coastal town that reminds us a bit of Cape Cod. It is popular with retirees because of the reasonable cost of living and bounty of natural beauty. Everyone <a href="http://www.gardenrouteadventureguide.com/day-hikes.html" target="_blank">walks </a>and (almost) nobody gets mugged. Between the scenery, <a href="https://rove.me/to/south-africa/knysna-oysters" target="_blank">oysters</a> and <a href="https://www.sirocco.co.za/" target="_blank">sushi</a>, it will be hard to work up the motivation to leave.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OlGAcEBx-Q8/Ybcxaxl3fXI/AAAAAAAAMc4/fUfWaYjuOHs3lW0cHoLqNPyB8Yt5_lQawCPcBGAsYHg/s4128/Heads%2Bfrom%2Binside.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2322" data-original-width="4128" height="360" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OlGAcEBx-Q8/Ybcxaxl3fXI/AAAAAAAAMc4/fUfWaYjuOHs3lW0cHoLqNPyB8Yt5_lQawCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h360/Heads%2Bfrom%2Binside.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">The Heads from inside on a calm day<br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><span style="font-family: verdana;"><br /></span></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-46SYg_5cW1U/YbcxEbs64sI/AAAAAAAAMcw/e-V0gCbV7Nc_m-vMEbyYNNMr1Fn3zPixwCPcBGAsYHg/s2838/East%2BHead%2BCafe%2B-%2BMark.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2322" data-original-width="2838" height="524" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-46SYg_5cW1U/YbcxEbs64sI/AAAAAAAAMcw/e-V0gCbV7Nc_m-vMEbyYNNMr1Fn3zPixwCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h524/East%2BHead%2BCafe%2B-%2BMark.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Mussels at the <a href="https://www.eastheadcafe.co.za/" target="_blank">East Head Cafe</a><br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-o5yN7crnKIs/YbcxnMu5jRI/AAAAAAAAMc8/MXFUaXVdzyg-VNnTNSQKkBr8r0-MEJ9HgCPcBGAsYHg/s4128/Matt%2Band%2BAndrew%2Bat%2BBrewery.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2322" data-original-width="4128" height="360" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-o5yN7crnKIs/YbcxnMu5jRI/AAAAAAAAMc8/MXFUaXVdzyg-VNnTNSQKkBr8r0-MEJ9HgCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h360/Matt%2Band%2BAndrew%2Bat%2BBrewery.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><a href="https://www.oddgodfrey.com/" target="_blank">Andrew</a> and Matt enjoying craft beer at the <a href="https://knysna-gin.com/" target="_blank">Knysna Distillery</a></span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: verdana;"><br /></span></span><p></p><p></p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">
</span></span>SV Perryhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16973086223410951684noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1338862963076957389.post-64554608197626691852021-11-17T00:00:00.043-06:002021-11-17T01:48:12.007-06:00Cashew--Gesundheit! Also, South Africa!<br /><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"></span></span><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"></span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-G7Jfe1ZK8zw/YZPxfczkDxI/AAAAAAAAMUE/f7Vbp5IinW8hVbBZ776Ko8qTTkahEQg-wCPcBGAsYHg/s608/Cashew%2Bfruit%2Bwith%2Bnut.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="608" data-original-width="430" height="610" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-G7Jfe1ZK8zw/YZPxfczkDxI/AAAAAAAAMUE/f7Vbp5IinW8hVbBZ776Ko8qTTkahEQg-wCPcBGAsYHg/w452-h610/Cashew%2Bfruit%2Bwith%2Bnut.jpg" width="452" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">A cashew fruit and nut</span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"> </span></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Or in Swahili you say, 'maisha marefu' ('long life') when someone sneezes. Our last stop in Tanzania was Mtwara. We busied ourselves with our final fueling, provisioning, and other preparations to leave for South Africa (including the usual multi-step process of checking out of the country). While in line for the ATM, Matt met Maria, the co-owner of a cashew factory. She generously invited us to tour the factory.<br /></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span></span></span></p><a name='more'></a><span style="font-size: medium;"><span></span><span style="font-family: verdana;"></span></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ERzQSkNTnJs/YZP0MxUq4OI/AAAAAAAAMUo/8LZNtzoBhGcYpYyRoLdg3obqXSiqZFt9wCPcBGAsYHg/s4128/Piles%2Bof%2Bdrying%2Bcashews.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2322" data-original-width="4128" height="360" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ERzQSkNTnJs/YZP0MxUq4OI/AAAAAAAAMUo/8LZNtzoBhGcYpYyRoLdg3obqXSiqZFt9wCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h360/Piles%2Bof%2Bdrying%2Bcashews.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Cashews from the farms, drying in the sun<br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><span style="font-family: verdana;"></span></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We love both cashews and <a href="https://www.svperry.com/2017/07/more-of-waiting-in-paradise-game.html" target="_blank">factory tours</a>, so we jumped at the chance. </span></span><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We now have a much greater appreciation for cashews,
which we already loved because they're delicious.</span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">The ebullient Maria met us at Mama Cashew, which she had just opened a few weeks prior with George, her partner and husband. Maria is originally from Holland and George is from Tanzania. Together they have opened a factory that is projected to process 130,000 kilograms of cashews this year. In addition to turning out a great product, it provides much-needed employment to hundreds of Tanzanians in the area, mostly women. Many of the women are essentially* single-mothers that previously had no consistent way to support their children.</span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">*Some were married and divorced (or not divorced, but not supported) by their husbands, who commonly take multiple wives.<br /></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_QuC91YUYOc/YZP1YusFgEI/AAAAAAAAMUw/dDWzN1JbEAUCsGfZpoqWYlorMyjhfGmkwCPcBGAsYHg/s4128/Cashew%2Bfactory%2B-%2Bwomen%2Bshelling%2Boutdoors.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2322" data-original-width="4128" height="360" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_QuC91YUYOc/YZP1YusFgEI/AAAAAAAAMUw/dDWzN1JbEAUCsGfZpoqWYlorMyjhfGmkwCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h360/Cashew%2Bfactory%2B-%2Bwomen%2Bshelling%2Boutdoors.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">One of the cashew processing stations<br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><span style="font-family: verdana;">The amount of work that goes into getting a cashew from the
tree to your mixed cocktail nut tin is mind-boggling. I had read that cashews were expensive because the delicate nut had to be extracted by hand. But seeing all the steps that go into the process and the speed of the nimble fingers that extract the nut was a revelation. </span></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"></span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-poUHxI6tepk/YZP37izdBqI/AAAAAAAAMVE/8_m4Gkz5P6sDhDFPkW-zXbF-qKFAzoeqQCPcBGAsYHg/s4128/Close-up%2Bof%2Bshelling%2Bindoors.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2322" data-original-width="4128" height="360" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-poUHxI6tepk/YZP37izdBqI/AAAAAAAAMVE/8_m4Gkz5P6sDhDFPkW-zXbF-qKFAzoeqQCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h360/Close-up%2Bof%2Bshelling%2Bindoors.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Cashew cutting and shelling</span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"> </span></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">I won't describe the
whole process (though Maria spent a lot of time showing and detailing to us all the stations and steps) but there is a lot more involved than just cracking a nut. First of all, cashew shells contain <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Urushiol" target="_blank">urushiol</a>, which is the same stuff that makes poison ivy so toxic. The workers coat their hands with oil for protection but have to remember not to touch other parts of their body. The shells are heated to make them easier to open. One set of workers cuts the shell
(there are also machines that can do this part, but the machines are more prone to breaking the nut) and removes the cashew from the
shell. The workers' speed and dexterity are truly impressive.</span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"></span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ySouN6ion7o/YZP3g9iuT3I/AAAAAAAAMU8/RnNatmnP6EkYLDjDySz_rMj4TflFYmZ8gCPcBGAsYHg/s4128/Old%2Bboiler.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4128" data-original-width="2322" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ySouN6ion7o/YZP3g9iuT3I/AAAAAAAAMU8/RnNatmnP6EkYLDjDySz_rMj4TflFYmZ8gCPcBGAsYHg/w360-h640/Old%2Bboiler.jpg" width="360" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">One of the boilers that powers the steam for the ovens</span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"> </span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Down the line, another
set of workers peels the skin from the cashews. This is also intricate work
that doesn't even look easy. In between the various processes, the cashews are
carried, dried, steamed, and heated. The ovens and steamers are powered by
boilers that use the discarded shells. In the end, the cashews are sorted,
packaged and exported.</span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Rtg-HRCSoDg/YZP4mp8_FpI/AAAAAAAAMVM/ibPeBWpBMXY239TqyOvogy9hzxoRD0h3QCPcBGAsYHg/s4128/20211029_105606.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2322" data-original-width="4128" height="360" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Rtg-HRCSoDg/YZP4mp8_FpI/AAAAAAAAMVM/ibPeBWpBMXY239TqyOvogy9hzxoRD0h3QCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h360/20211029_105606.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Steamers to soften the cashew shells<br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><span style="font-family: verdana;"></span></span><p></p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">
</span></span><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Tanzania is the second largest supplier of cashews in Africa
and 60% of the world's cashews come from Africa. Unfortunately, there aren't enough processing facilities like Mama Cashew in Tanzania, so a lot of cashews (and profits) go
from the farms in Tanzania to processors in India and Vietnam. Even beyond the <a href="https://www.fairtrade.net/" target="_blank">Fair Trade</a> designation of Mama Cashew, Maria and George seem to be focused on good working conditions and improving the lives and livelihood of the workers. Her enthusiasm was contagious and we left the tour really rooting for its success. I will certainly never take cashews for granted again.<br /></span></span></p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"></span></span><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"> </span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-d0OkpM_vfyg/YZP68bVAhJI/AAAAAAAAMVY/UVWtJOw5PpcuVRAdHYKePMBPro3h9cmugCPcBGAsYHg/s4128/Mark%2Bshelling%2Bcashew.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2322" data-original-width="4128" height="360" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-d0OkpM_vfyg/YZP68bVAhJI/AAAAAAAAMVY/UVWtJOw5PpcuVRAdHYKePMBPro3h9cmugCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h360/Mark%2Bshelling%2Bcashew.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">I hope the home-schooling thing is working because cashew processing is not in this kid's future. The factory would go out of business.</span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Once we wrapped up all the chores and preparations in Mtwara (<i>Perry </i>was actually anchored in nearby Mikindani), we left for Richards Bay, South Africa on a favorable weather forecast. A few kilometers outside of Tanzania waters, a big Tanzanian Navy <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rigid_inflatable_boat" target="_blank">RIB</a> with a deck-mounted machine gun pulled up and started yelling for us to stop the boat so they could pull alongside. As we struggled to bring in the sails and slow the boat, the Navy boat bounced against us and threw their lines around our cleats. They didn't seem to understand that sailboats under sail can't just stop on a dime. The cranky yelling continued until they had gotten the documents they wanted (which took a few tries because of the windy and wavy conditions and a little vagueness--we want to see 'all your boat papers').<br /></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">As it turned out, they just wanted to ask a few questions (like 'are we carrying contraband') and see our exit documents, but their aggressive tactics left a bad taste (and a couple of small gouges on the side of the boat).</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"> </span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ePaDnL9CZ48/YZP9VuvvobI/AAAAAAAAMVk/hgjSvI-NxPonLp0rzpowto28YNX5k4n8wCPcBGAsYHg/s4128/Matt%2Bfixing%2Bbatten%2Bunderway.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2322" data-original-width="4128" height="360" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ePaDnL9CZ48/YZP9VuvvobI/AAAAAAAAMVk/hgjSvI-NxPonLp0rzpowto28YNX5k4n8wCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h360/Matt%2Bfixing%2Bbatten%2Bunderway.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">An underway (in underwear) repair of our mainsail batten</span>.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Our trip to Richards Bay was relatively fast and eventful. This seven-day passage was not the slow, flat downwind spinnaker-fueled <a href="https://www.svperry.com/2014/04/george-town-to-puerto-rico.html" target="_blank">run to Puerto Rico</a>. We reached record speeds going downwind with the combination of current and wind (20+ knots surfing down a wave), despite having our sails reefed to the size of a handkerchief. Heavy winds make for challenging gybes, and during one of them, our mainsail top batten broke. Matt replaced it, but the new one was a hollow batten instead of a solid one (which we were assured was just as strong). It too broke a couple of days later as the winds hit 40 knots and we were taking the sail down.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Luckily, we did not have to stop in Mozambique to wait out the weather as is common for this passage. We did have to motor a bit through some lulls to get into Richards Bay ahead of the next front, as well as to dodge some intense lightning storms as we closed on the coast of South Africa. There were also many more sail changes than usual. But we had favorable currents (4+ knots at one point) almost the entire way. The casualty list: mainsail batten (x2), engine room bilge pump, battery charger (we have two), laptop (we have a backup), leaky galley faucet. Also, the cutlass bearing on one of our engines started whining at us, letting us know that we should replace it soon.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We were very happy to see Richards Bay when we pulled up to the mouth of the harbor around 7 p.m. We had to wait a couple hours for shipping traffic before we were allowed to head in, so we had some dinner in the relatively calm waters outside the harbor and waited. With radio support from our cruising friends already in Richards Bay and tie-up help from Austin on <i>Enchantress </i>and Jenny and Natasha (the <a href="https://www.osasa.org.za/" target="_blank">OSASA </a>reps that have been helping to smooth the way for cruisers), we safely tucked onto the concrete quarantine dock around 11 p.m. After PCR tests and a day and a half of waiting for our clearance from the various officials, we were free to move about the country.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Richards Bay is a refreshing change for us after being away from civilization for so long. The grocery stores have just about everything (especially meat) at a cheap </span></span><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">(for us) </span></span>price and the people are friendly. We are docked at the Zululand Yacht Club, which is a lovely and welcoming place. We don't normally stay at marinas, but the price is very reasonable and the anchorage options are limited. Many of our cruising friends are here and the club has a <a href="https://theculturetrip.com/africa/south-africa/articles/10-reasons-why-south-african-braais-are-better-than-bbqs/" target="_blank">braai</a> several times a week.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We are ticking away our boat maintenance and repair list. The <a href="https://kentech.info/" target="_blank">laptop is fixed </a>and better than before, we have a new batten, the charger has been repaired (Matt replaced a couple of fuses that we didn't know existed), the galley faucet is fixed, and the bilge pump has been replaced. Having water at the dock also means that Perry has gotten the first proper wash down in almost a year. Meanwhile we are also watching the forecasts closely to find a good weather window to make our way to Cape Town, where we hope to spend the holidays.<br /></span></span></p>SV Perryhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16973086223410951684noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1338862963076957389.post-45002629006431860572021-11-01T00:00:00.042-05:002021-11-01T00:00:00.167-05:00The Many Faces of Tanzania<p><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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</p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-w_Up5FFNsoY/YXkvEqXOktI/AAAAAAAAMPU/Xh7s_L65HDMjOqK5hv3UGVl-g_fOO-O4ACPcBGAsYHg/s4128/Perry%2Bin%2BTanga%2B-%2Bsunset.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2322" data-original-width="4128" height="360" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-w_Up5FFNsoY/YXkvEqXOktI/AAAAAAAAMPU/Xh7s_L65HDMjOqK5hv3UGVl-g_fOO-O4ACPcBGAsYHg/w640-h360/Perry%2Bin%2BTanga%2B-%2Bsunset.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Tanga anchorage<br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><span style="font-family: verdana;">We met a Tanzanian woman named Happy (isn't that a great
name?). She visited Europe for the first time a couple years ago and although she enjoyed it, she explained
why she wouldn't want to live there. In Tanzania, even though people don't have
much, they will help as much as they can you if you are in need. Contrast this
with Europe, where people expect themselves and others to be self-sufficient.
If someone needs help, the government might help, but the culture is not one of
widely sharing.</span></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span></span></span></span></p><a name='more'></a><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DPvqF0zDHq8/YXkvXxjzU1I/AAAAAAAAMPc/PNbkqwoapocWONq7kbvl_OWslzXGoKDIwCPcBGAsYHg/s2576/Mohammed%2Bon%2BPerry.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1932" data-original-width="2576" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DPvqF0zDHq8/YXkvXxjzU1I/AAAAAAAAMPc/PNbkqwoapocWONq7kbvl_OWslzXGoKDIwCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h480/Mohammed%2Bon%2BPerry.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Mohammed of Koma - fisherman, teacher, community activist</span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Those weren't Happy's exact words, but it's the gist of what
she was saying. I wonder if that sentiment--that Tanzanians believe that more
fortunate people should share what they have--is the basis for one of the more
annoying aspects of visiting Tanzania for Western-minded foreigners. Does
Tanzanian culture spawn the idea that foreigners (who in the minds of many
Tanzanians are all rich; relatively speaking, they are not totally wrong when
it comes to most visitors) should share what they have with less fortunate
Tanzanians?</span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"></span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KWXEAfRMG8A/YXkvl4Q_XVI/AAAAAAAAMPg/M_lNTz4_teo-4GCBfFqd_1oGGQVavmkngCPcBGAsYHg/s2790/House%2Bwith%2Bgoats%2BKilwa.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2190" data-original-width="2790" height="502" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KWXEAfRMG8A/YXkvl4Q_XVI/AAAAAAAAMPg/M_lNTz4_teo-4GCBfFqd_1oGGQVavmkngCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h502/House%2Bwith%2Bgoats%2BKilwa.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">A house on Kilwa Kilindoni. Guard goats.</span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"> </span></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Particularly in areas visited by
a lot of tourists, like <a href="https://www.svperry.com/2021/09/seychelles-to-tanzania.html" target="_blank">Zanzibar</a> and Arusha (the starting point for most
<a href="https://www.svperry.com/2021/10/safari-in-tanzania.html" target="_blank">safaris</a> and near Mt. Kilimanjaro), the touts and beggars can be <a href="https://www.oddgodfrey.com/oddlog/tasteandforgetherest" target="_blank">overwhelming</a>.
There are more ways for people to make money off tourists than you can shake a stick at--from selling tours and knickknacks to steering people to a specific store,
bus or restaurant. Saying 'no, thank you' seems to be akin to an invitation for
the hard press. And when it becomes clear that you mean 'no', it can transition to
just plain begging for a 'gift' or 'help'. Like many countries that rely
heavily on tourism, Tanzania's tourist industry (despite its lack of restrictions
during Covid) has suffered mightily and the desperation in some people is
palpable.</span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"></span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-U0W9f0wq_nE/YXkx1Q_ONqI/AAAAAAAAMP4/6F21wagYbB0-sWx7sQZbkFBbp7fy2jBdwCPcBGAsYHg/s4128/Koma%2Bsilly%2Bpic%2Bkids.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2322" data-original-width="4128" height="360" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-U0W9f0wq_nE/YXkx1Q_ONqI/AAAAAAAAMP4/6F21wagYbB0-sWx7sQZbkFBbp7fy2jBdwCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h360/Koma%2Bsilly%2Bpic%2Bkids.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Kids having a laugh on Koma Island</span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><br />Even in the less tourist-ridden
spots, if the price isn't marked, foreigners can expect to be charged <b>much
</b><a href="https://www.sailingsteelsapphire.com/blog-1/2021/9/30/a-shocking-admission" target="_blank">more than locals for produce</a> at the local market, clothes or for a taxi ride.
Although this <a href="https://www.svperry.com/2018/11/when-in-romereach-for-your-wallet.html" target="_blank">isn't uncommon</a> throughout the world, the magnitude of the overcharging can be much bigger. Some of these guys are really shooting for the stars. Whereas in Southeast Asia, you might be asked for
two or three times the local amount, in Tanzania it is common for the starting salvo
to be ten times the local amount. On the other hand, in <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mtwara" target="_blank">Mtwara</a>, which seems to
have very few foreign visitors, there don't seem to be Mzungu (literally
'white') mark-ups. A police officer in Mtwara that Matt was chatting with did
ask whether we were rich though.</span></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"></span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Yxi80jiFCxU/YXkyfNucc4I/AAAAAAAAMQA/b7J2mZ4ksSIgTSRaZdED48sWV_10FzXngCPcBGAsYHg/s4128/Kilwa%2Bmosque%2Bwith%2Btree.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2322" data-original-width="4128" height="360" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Yxi80jiFCxU/YXkyfNucc4I/AAAAAAAAMQA/b7J2mZ4ksSIgTSRaZdED48sWV_10FzXngCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h360/Kilwa%2Bmosque%2Bwith%2Btree.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Mosque ruins in Kilwa Kisiwani</span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"></span></span><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"> </span></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">My attitude towards these tiny
'injustices' <a href="https://www.svperry.com/2018/11/when-in-romereach-for-your-wallet.html" target="_blank">has evolved</a> during our time here. Mainly, this is because the strength of the
dollar makes everything really cheap, especially compared to the crazily
expensive Seychelles. Negotiating beyond a certain point often means quibbling over
pennies. I used to feel that the fleecing of foreigners translated to a lack of
respect for us suckers (and I still feel like some places and people do get a
measure of joy from it), but really most people are just trying to make as much many
as they can and it's not all about me.</span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"></span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RjE95D4HUpY/YXkzVFy0EOI/AAAAAAAAMQM/FHYt6MLXVywkW-nGiuD5DphRnbhuQWT3ACPcBGAsYHg/s4128/Kilwa%2Bmosque%2Binterior%2Barches.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2322" data-original-width="4128" height="360" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RjE95D4HUpY/YXkzVFy0EOI/AAAAAAAAMQM/FHYt6MLXVywkW-nGiuD5DphRnbhuQWT3ACPcBGAsYHg/w640-h360/Kilwa%2Bmosque%2Binterior%2Barches.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">More mosque</span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><br /></span></span><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">It took us a couple of weeks of
day-hops to move from <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tanga,_Tanzania" target="_blank">Tanga</a> to <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mikindani" target="_blank">Mikindani</a>/Mtwara. After returning to Stone Town
and spending a couple of days in Dar es Salaam, we visited a small island
called Koma. We had heard about it from <a href="https://www.sailblogs.com/member/schoonerwindjammer/479998/" target="_blank">other cruisers</a> and friends. The highlight of the visit was Mohammed, a fisherman who has started
the equivalent of a <a href="https://www.acf.hhs.gov/ohs/about/head-start" target="_blank">Head Start</a> program for pre-school aged children. Although
he has no formal training, he has taken it upon himself to teach the young
children of Koma until they start Primary School (there is a government school on the island) at the age of seven or so. We
were able to donate our <a href="https://www.svperry.com/2014/03/homeschooling-update.html" target="_blank">globe</a> and some books and spent some time with the many
children and seeing the villages.</span></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"></span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Kpi0ssKhEqo/YXkzfUtJ_VI/AAAAAAAAMQQ/dphw7AnREokuHNq3tMuF_jlU-7oVQ9WvwCPcBGAsYHg/s3822/Kilwa%2BKisiwani%2BGereza%2BGroup.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2316" data-original-width="3822" height="388" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Kpi0ssKhEqo/YXkzfUtJ_VI/AAAAAAAAMQQ/dphw7AnREokuHNq3tMuF_jlU-7oVQ9WvwCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h388/Kilwa%2BKisiwani%2BGereza%2BGroup.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Inside the Gereza/Fortress ruins at Kilwa Kisiwani with Jemila, our guide</span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><br /></span></span><p></p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">
</span></span><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We also made a stop to see the
Ruins of Kilwa Kisiwani, which is a UNESCO World Heritage site. We hired our
required guide, who purchased our permits, and took a boat to the ruins, some
of which date back to the 13th century. We saw a lot of incredible historical places and ruins in <a href="https://www.svperry.com/2019/05/when-in-india-pay-attention.html" target="_blank">India</a> and
<a href="https://www.svperry.com/2020/01/road-trip-to-cambodia.html" target="_blank">Cambodia</a>, but it was still an interesting visit.</span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"></span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SsQutXZcU-c/YXkz1R9Q7aI/AAAAAAAAMQY/MtHVb-HiRJgnWoLslK9hmCng5-d8ZuWUQCPcBGAsYHg/s4128/Koma%2BUno.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2322" data-original-width="4128" height="360" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SsQutXZcU-c/YXkz1R9Q7aI/AAAAAAAAMQY/MtHVb-HiRJgnWoLslK9hmCng5-d8ZuWUQCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h360/Koma%2BUno.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Teaching the kids the card game <i>Uno</i></span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-t29CP6nYU68/YXkz1c_VNNI/AAAAAAAAMQY/t0mDZpi5inIyEgP_wV_1oenGwFzLI0wNgCPcBGAsYHg/s4128/Koma%2Bfrisbee.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2322" data-original-width="4128" height="360" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-t29CP6nYU68/YXkz1c_VNNI/AAAAAAAAMQY/t0mDZpi5inIyEgP_wV_1oenGwFzLI0wNgCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h360/Koma%2Bfrisbee.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Frisbee anyone?<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br />As I write this, we are in Mikindani
doing our final fuel and food provisioning and boat projects and taking care of
formalities in Mtwara. As soon as the weather forecast is favorable, we will
start making our way to Richard's Bay, South Africa. </span></span><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">By the time this post is published, we should be on our way to Richard's Bay. </span></span>The journey can take a
little over a week or as long as a few weeks, depending on the weather and
whether or not you have to stop along the coast to wait for weather. I just
said some form of 'weather' three times in a row, so it's time to go. <br /></span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-G1V-iQ2q8W0/YXk0kuIrvQI/AAAAAAAAMQg/1_PmiB7paZ8S4i-TyE0qEMx43kEmsf8OACPcBGAsYHg/s4128/Mohammed%2Bwith%2Bbooks.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2322" data-original-width="4128" height="360" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-G1V-iQ2q8W0/YXk0kuIrvQI/AAAAAAAAMQg/1_PmiB7paZ8S4i-TyE0qEMx43kEmsf8OACPcBGAsYHg/w640-h360/Mohammed%2Bwith%2Bbooks.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Mohammed with some items bought with money donated by <i>Steel Sapphire</i></span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span><p></p>SV Perryhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16973086223410951684noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1338862963076957389.post-6228284272450897332021-10-15T00:00:00.043-05:002021-10-15T00:00:00.199-05:00Safari in Tanzania<p><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<![endif]--></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"> </span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-b6G4u_13Zn4/YWbyXgKSAHI/AAAAAAAAMJk/gTMGol5HmOAP4-0dKacRQjMK8n7gt0YngCPcBGAsYHg/s1918/Crossing%2B4%2BWide.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="954" data-original-width="1918" height="318" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-b6G4u_13Zn4/YWbyXgKSAHI/AAAAAAAAMJk/gTMGol5HmOAP4-0dKacRQjMK8n7gt0YngCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h318/Crossing%2B4%2BWide.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Mara River crossing. The number of animals was mind-boggling</span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"> </span></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">As I was going through the pictures for this post, it occurred
me that it will be <i>more </i>like a boring vacation slideshow than most of our posts (which are already pretty close). Not only are there a lot of pictures--because I had a hard time choosing,
but who hasn't seen almost the same stuff in the zoo or when watching a nature documentary?</span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span></span></span></span></p><a name='more'></a><span style="font-size: medium;"> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PUXOIvCIBiM/YWbyywaLj9I/AAAAAAAAMKM/vmWYOMtg3EIAzxoMn3uezv4zoYLORuDJACPcBGAsYHg/s3504/Lion%2Bmales%2Btogether.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2336" data-original-width="3504" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PUXOIvCIBiM/YWbyywaLj9I/AAAAAAAAMKM/vmWYOMtg3EIAzxoMn3uezv4zoYLORuDJACPcBGAsYHg/w640-h426/Lion%2Bmales%2Btogether.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Two male lions in the Northern Serengeti (there were three males in this group)</span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /></span><p></p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">
</span></span><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">So, I'm sorry if all these pictures seem a touch familiar. But much like the Grand Canyon, <a href="https://www.svperry.com/2018/04/pictures-from-our-australian-road-trip.html" target="_blank">Eluru</a>, and any full moon, some things are just much more impressive in person (and in blog posts, obviously). And <a href="https://www.svperry.com/2016/09/perry-versus-volcano.html" target="_blank">nature</a> and <a href="https://www.svperry.com/2015/03/isla-san-cristobol-and-isla-santa-cruz.html" target="_blank">wildlife</a> is our favorite.<br /></span></span></p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">
</span></span><p><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GxmbpSgw0eo/YWb0EOxHJgI/AAAAAAAAMK4/PtH3Yv1D5aMbg9-julez6UG9B5n_8uGBwCPcBGAsYHg/s3504/Blood%2Blily%2Bwith%2Bcar.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2336" data-original-width="3504" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GxmbpSgw0eo/YWb0EOxHJgI/AAAAAAAAMK4/PtH3Yv1D5aMbg9-julez6UG9B5n_8uGBwCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h426/Blood%2Blily%2Bwith%2Bcar.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">African blood lilies<br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"></span></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Here's a shot of our safari car in the Northern Serengeti. Note the low sides and lack of windows. If anything wanted to eat us, we would be easy pickings. Fortunately, the lions and other animals don't seem to see the people inside the vehicles as separate. Our guide said that they do sometimes jump on the hood or roof to get a better view of their prey.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vpZbznYowRM/YWcJkalwFHI/AAAAAAAAMLE/n4kSJVWEjY4wgr-43j5GK0x9kOxquzq6wCPcBGAsYHg/s2844/C%2Blooking%2Bat%2Belephants.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2068" data-original-width="2844" height="466" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vpZbznYowRM/YWcJkalwFHI/AAAAAAAAMLE/n4kSJVWEjY4wgr-43j5GK0x9kOxquzq6wCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h466/C%2Blooking%2Bat%2Belephants.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><span style="font-family: verdana;">Matt and I were in Tanzania in 2004, so we had been on safari here before. But this trip offered lots of new experiences: several river crossings with hordes of wildebeest and zebra, many more babies of every type, leopards galore, and kills. On our last trip (and this one too), we pretty much wouldn't shut up about wanting to see a kill. If you believe every guide we have ever talked to, it is very rare to see a hunt that results in a kill. So we felt very lucky this trip to see <i>four </i>(3 croc v wildebeest and one cheetah v. gazelle*).</span></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BasYaSo74og/YWcLLdovpAI/AAAAAAAAMLQ/CMQux53pC84jZs6sHb5_TlKLhAd88EZCwCPcBGAsYHg/s3504/Lions%2Beating.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2336" data-original-width="3504" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BasYaSo74og/YWcLLdovpAI/AAAAAAAAMLQ/CMQux53pC84jZs6sHb5_TlKLhAd88EZCwCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h426/Lions%2Beating.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">The first set of lions we saw eating in Ngorongoro Crater. We missed this kill by a few hours but got a great view of the big pride eating their fill.<br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-epsEwkRzptQ/YWcL6KRG2pI/AAAAAAAAMLY/bjedgx-OMC0wjLzoWkfxeO3AbJZ-PO29wCPcBGAsYHg/s3016/Jackals%2Bfighting.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2008" data-original-width="3016" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-epsEwkRzptQ/YWcL6KRG2pI/AAAAAAAAMLY/bjedgx-OMC0wjLzoWkfxeO3AbJZ-PO29wCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h426/Jackals%2Bfighting.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">The jackals got their share.<br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /></span><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-arqbyHqGf1o/YWcMID4ttmI/AAAAAAAAMLc/QeR6rUsKWJorFrmAdWzzivvMog-PHG2kgCPcBGAsYHg/s3000/Hyenas%2Blooking%2Bat%2Bjackals.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2108" data-original-width="3000" height="450" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-arqbyHqGf1o/YWcMID4ttmI/AAAAAAAAMLc/QeR6rUsKWJorFrmAdWzzivvMog-PHG2kgCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h450/Hyenas%2Blooking%2Bat%2Bjackals.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></div><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bw4uOk7h6Ak/YWcMQlG92_I/AAAAAAAAMLg/3mAAuI90phEk5hmp-TCSjF_tJhc1QJrewCPcBGAsYHg/s2696/Hyena%2Bwith%2Bbone.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2176" data-original-width="2696" height="516" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bw4uOk7h6Ak/YWcMQlG92_I/AAAAAAAAMLg/3mAAuI90phEk5hmp-TCSjF_tJhc1QJrewCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h516/Hyena%2Bwith%2Bbone.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">The hyena also got his.<br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><span style="font-family: verdana;">We saw three wildebeest babies taken by crocodiles during one of the river crossings. As one of our guides said, 'Wildebeest are not clever.' They took forever to work up the herd mentality to actually start crossing the river. But once they started, they kept crossing, even as their young were being taken out. </span></span><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">It was fascinating, but after getting to know the wildebeest we felt kind of bad for them. </span></span>When you've seen them nursing, playing and even chasing a butterfly around a field, it's hard not to become fond of the strange-looking creatures.</span></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ahN5r79xm6c/YWcNMJKDn6I/AAAAAAAAMLs/XKzaCliGOgAC44vprbO_fsCvaR9r1_b5gCPcBGAsYHg/s3496/Wildebeest%2Bjumping.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2024" data-original-width="3496" height="370" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ahN5r79xm6c/YWcNMJKDn6I/AAAAAAAAMLs/XKzaCliGOgAC44vprbO_fsCvaR9r1_b5gCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h370/Wildebeest%2Bjumping.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Wildebeest speeding across the river<br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eVMGvTAYz3Y/YWcNctTiBeI/AAAAAAAAML0/iK445qeDdy88ZriB_-gRw9I2mgFOO3jEwCPcBGAsYHg/s3272/Crocs%2Bon%2Bshore.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1900" data-original-width="3272" height="372" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eVMGvTAYz3Y/YWcNctTiBeI/AAAAAAAAML0/iK445qeDdy88ZriB_-gRw9I2mgFOO3jEwCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h372/Crocs%2Bon%2Bshore.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Their nemesis: the crocodile<br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LSaiAAgksJs/YWcNsxcdJhI/AAAAAAAAML8/kRlmxpMhOYIwuupnyh-3_EgOfamdcroGQCPcBGAsYHg/s3484/Croc%2Bin%2Bwater%2Bnear%2Bwildebeest.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1588" data-original-width="3484" height="292" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LSaiAAgksJs/YWcNsxcdJhI/AAAAAAAAML8/kRlmxpMhOYIwuupnyh-3_EgOfamdcroGQCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h292/Croc%2Bin%2Bwater%2Bnear%2Bwildebeest.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">A crocodile surveying the all-you-can-eat buffet</span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /></span><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9CMmcdHPCLk/YWcOUgu9XGI/AAAAAAAAMME/M1RbVXe3qWcQGOOJwd02tpRGMKevLCHGwCPcBGAsYHg/s2828/Croc%2Bwith%2Bwb%2B2.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2032" data-original-width="2828" height="460" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9CMmcdHPCLk/YWcOUgu9XGI/AAAAAAAAMME/M1RbVXe3qWcQGOOJwd02tpRGMKevLCHGwCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h460/Croc%2Bwith%2Bwb%2B2.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></div><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qRS1u5KHEOk/YWcOUi9nLII/AAAAAAAAMME/T-D0T5xc-3MUtUCHzNpcUJR79nqpx5SWgCPcBGAsYHg/s2852/Croc%2Btaking%2Bwildebeest%2B2.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1744" data-original-width="2852" height="392" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qRS1u5KHEOk/YWcOUi9nLII/AAAAAAAAMME/T-D0T5xc-3MUtUCHzNpcUJR79nqpx5SWgCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h392/Croc%2Btaking%2Bwildebeest%2B2.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rPJxfkmufxs/YWcOUvBJ6gI/AAAAAAAAMME/O4u_ALa2_TMGq3vMWN2t9jEznU5a_VuDQCPcBGAsYHg/s2840/Croc%2Btaking%2Bwildebeest%2B1.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2044" data-original-width="2840" height="460" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rPJxfkmufxs/YWcOUvBJ6gI/AAAAAAAAMME/O4u_ALa2_TMGq3vMWN2t9jEznU5a_VuDQCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h460/Croc%2Btaking%2Bwildebeest%2B1.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Lots of splashing but no blood as the crocodile drowns its prey and shoves it underneath a rock<br /></span></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: verdana;"></span></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Just so you don't think we were just out for blood the <i>whole </i>time, here are a few other pictures of the wildlife. Tanzania does an incredible job of protecting its wildlife and the result is an unrivaled number of animals.<br /></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MXYS0XS1OmQ/YWcQOKW3MZI/AAAAAAAAMMY/ZJ1fFFgJyB80N9xFMUOWqfpqLoHE5wi0wCPcBGAsYHg/s3504/Three%2Bmale%2Blions.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2336" data-original-width="3504" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MXYS0XS1OmQ/YWcQOKW3MZI/AAAAAAAAMMY/ZJ1fFFgJyB80N9xFMUOWqfpqLoHE5wi0wCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h426/Three%2Bmale%2Blions.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">This is big excitement in lion watching. 2 of them actually have their heads up and AREN'T sleeping</span>.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-biNrNuw3IK4/YWcQgO_fh9I/AAAAAAAAMMs/LUDDSbir6OcApS0YKyMATGYvdsWs0_TDACPcBGAsYHg/s3504/Baby%2Bwater%2Bbuck.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2336" data-original-width="3504" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-biNrNuw3IK4/YWcQgO_fh9I/AAAAAAAAMMs/LUDDSbir6OcApS0YKyMATGYvdsWs0_TDACPcBGAsYHg/w640-h426/Baby%2Bwater%2Bbuck.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Baby water buck<br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5LE2Fbq-wiA/YWcQgDJjnyI/AAAAAAAAMMs/aepVN3B6VZc_R3ik4d64I09eGaCZu_PkQCPcBGAsYHg/s2332/Warthog%2Bclose-up.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2332" data-original-width="2128" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5LE2Fbq-wiA/YWcQgDJjnyI/AAAAAAAAMMs/aepVN3B6VZc_R3ik4d64I09eGaCZu_PkQCPcBGAsYHg/w584-h640/Warthog%2Bclose-up.JPG" width="584" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Warthogs actually have warts (OK, not really--it's just mud)<br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FhA_32scm7Q/YWcQgD57tqI/AAAAAAAAMMs/Ccv_F_hurfA5Hv9qFvvj1D6ce2v1ZtIGQCPcBGAsYHg/s2312/Impala.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2312" data-original-width="1728" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FhA_32scm7Q/YWcQgD57tqI/AAAAAAAAMMs/Ccv_F_hurfA5Hv9qFvvj1D6ce2v1ZtIGQCPcBGAsYHg/w478-h640/Impala.JPG" width="478" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Impala</span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qko2Rdj32-E/YWcQgOs6ElI/AAAAAAAAMMs/yrMJzZ8ovTQpmsCjO5vP6wyLH1LG3pPIQCPcBGAsYHg/s2644/Leopard%2Bbabies.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2124" data-original-width="2644" height="514" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qko2Rdj32-E/YWcQgOs6ElI/AAAAAAAAMMs/yrMJzZ8ovTQpmsCjO5vP6wyLH1LG3pPIQCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h514/Leopard%2Bbabies.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Baby leopards</span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5vHZAwozxtc/YWcQgAHgGcI/AAAAAAAAMMs/ikaXK-NXLQ8bBJKH6ToT9z1fmqcfysI2wCPcBGAsYHg/s2632/Kingfisher.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2052" data-original-width="2632" height="498" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5vHZAwozxtc/YWcQgAHgGcI/AAAAAAAAMMs/ikaXK-NXLQ8bBJKH6ToT9z1fmqcfysI2wCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h498/Kingfisher.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Kingfisher<br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LhN5d4LmFeA/YWcQgLY508I/AAAAAAAAMMs/pISyzuEnhgEI4Q20BOkiydk0qhYMw9jTgCPcBGAsYHg/s2908/Lions%2Bwith%2Bheads%2Btogether.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1788" data-original-width="2908" height="394" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LhN5d4LmFeA/YWcQgLY508I/AAAAAAAAMMs/pISyzuEnhgEI4Q20BOkiydk0qhYMw9jTgCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h394/Lions%2Bwith%2Bheads%2Btogether.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Lion love<br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DnIzQt824Ps/YWcQgO610gI/AAAAAAAAMMs/cjff-h6K080Sw0ta1_Otl2JxIAzXINUcQCPcBGAsYHg/s3504/Lots%2Bof%2Belephants.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2336" data-original-width="3504" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DnIzQt824Ps/YWcQgO610gI/AAAAAAAAMMs/cjff-h6K080Sw0ta1_Otl2JxIAzXINUcQCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h426/Lots%2Bof%2Belephants.JPG" width="640" /></a></div></span><p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yc9EPUcW4I4/YWcTzNeGLFI/AAAAAAAAMNQ/fBwFIiGtG9kIW9jqndraB29Ats-aaoekQCPcBGAsYHg/s3504/Lizard%2B2.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2336" data-original-width="3504" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yc9EPUcW4I4/YWcTzNeGLFI/AAAAAAAAMNQ/fBwFIiGtG9kIW9jqndraB29Ats-aaoekQCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h426/Lizard%2B2.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sgUGCfGlTJs/YWcQgIUEJdI/AAAAAAAAMMs/DXBexTBeAi8w3bx4YbaGb2RV6RWQ6xtXACPcBGAsYHg/s3504/Cheetah%2Bbaby.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1972" data-original-width="3504" height="360" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sgUGCfGlTJs/YWcQgIUEJdI/AAAAAAAAMMs/DXBexTBeAi8w3bx4YbaGb2RV6RWQ6xtXACPcBGAsYHg/w640-h360/Cheetah%2Bbaby.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Baby cheetah and mom<br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zGqwdB7rfIs/YWcQgFd5CDI/AAAAAAAAMMs/5V9x8LcSaEIuAhUv5n3ToDO9u35FGq7zQCPcBGAsYHg/s2836/Giraffes.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2092" data-original-width="2836" height="472" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zGqwdB7rfIs/YWcQgFd5CDI/AAAAAAAAMMs/5V9x8LcSaEIuAhUv5n3ToDO9u35FGq7zQCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h472/Giraffes.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-S8lhtS8JP8I/YWcQgNcecBI/AAAAAAAAMMs/JI3cWBW_eY061eWeuQxYI-AguEeAQXcbQCPcBGAsYHg/s3504/Hippo%2Bon%2Bparade.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2336" data-original-width="3504" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-S8lhtS8JP8I/YWcQgNcecBI/AAAAAAAAMMs/JI3cWBW_eY061eWeuQxYI-AguEeAQXcbQCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h426/Hippo%2Bon%2Bparade.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Love the hippos<br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6YNlcE3uGy8/YWcQgNPXwBI/AAAAAAAAMMs/CC7MbYypEW4OPE3aUoTsGL5Snb-nLqwQgCPcBGAsYHg/s3504/Hungry%2Bhippo%2Bin%2Bgroup.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2128" data-original-width="3504" height="388" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6YNlcE3uGy8/YWcQgNPXwBI/AAAAAAAAMMs/CC7MbYypEW4OPE3aUoTsGL5Snb-nLqwQgCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h388/Hungry%2Bhippo%2Bin%2Bgroup.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Hungry, hungry hippo<br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IISvhOxVSQU/YWcQgFPzwzI/AAAAAAAAMMs/KODcdL08-iosKmiyRJh1evNPPj0_twa5ACPcBGAsYHg/s3504/Flamingos.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2336" data-original-width="3504" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IISvhOxVSQU/YWcQgFPzwzI/AAAAAAAAMMs/KODcdL08-iosKmiyRJh1evNPPj0_twa5ACPcBGAsYHg/w640-h426/Flamingos.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1KH7Ofr_Jkc/YWcQgMknNZI/AAAAAAAAMMs/obp_PBs-0tYS3RuRZpEcgPS-h9aEpc1JQCPcBGAsYHg/s3504/Elephant%2Band%2Bother%2Banimals.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2336" data-original-width="3504" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1KH7Ofr_Jkc/YWcQgMknNZI/AAAAAAAAMMs/obp_PBs-0tYS3RuRZpEcgPS-h9aEpc1JQCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h426/Elephant%2Band%2Bother%2Banimals.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">There were just so <i>many </i>animals<br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xwsgc_HgOEE/YWcQgL8B-II/AAAAAAAAMMs/t29nYshKq-MY_NWYCcpz6nUgR1x2Gp0BgCPcBGAsYHg/s3504/Elephant%2Bby%2Bcar.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2336" data-original-width="3504" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xwsgc_HgOEE/YWcQgL8B-II/AAAAAAAAMMs/t29nYshKq-MY_NWYCcpz6nUgR1x2Gp0BgCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h426/Elephant%2Bby%2Bcar.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2u9lhfcFCO4/YWcQgB-S3SI/AAAAAAAAMMs/IQ3hfQIIdiwDS57gFSvDxepYdERozfIFgCPcBGAsYHg/s3504/Male%2Blion%2Bby%2Bcars.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2336" data-original-width="3504" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2u9lhfcFCO4/YWcQgB-S3SI/AAAAAAAAMMs/IQ3hfQIIdiwDS57gFSvDxepYdERozfIFgCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h426/Male%2Blion%2Bby%2Bcars.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><span style="font-family: verdana;"></span></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">The fourth and final kill may need an asterisk, because a local bus pulled in front of us just as the kill happened. It was all the more annoying because half the bus's occupants were looking at us tourists and not the cheetah killing the gazelle, probably wondering what we were so annoyed about.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FaHOHpMwOTA/YWcS4zYZDHI/AAAAAAAAMM8/WZW5S2ZmCC8ZLNnmihC50R8yB-hhQ4fMACPcBGAsYHg/s2896/Cheetahs%2Bspotting%2Bprey%2B2.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2324" data-original-width="2896" height="514" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FaHOHpMwOTA/YWcS4zYZDHI/AAAAAAAAMM8/WZW5S2ZmCC8ZLNnmihC50R8yB-hhQ4fMACPcBGAsYHg/w640-h514/Cheetahs%2Bspotting%2Bprey%2B2.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Locked and loaded<br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-u_dIGP09Bh0/YWcT8MlIvHI/AAAAAAAAMNU/fXXIoO9VAtMKJC7uCIrH4lZ7Af45uLAPwCPcBGAsYHg/s1366/fb_Bus.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="766" data-original-width="1366" height="358" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-u_dIGP09Bh0/YWcT8MlIvHI/AAAAAAAAMNU/fXXIoO9VAtMKJC7uCIrH4lZ7Af45uLAPwCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h358/fb_Bus.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">The kill (happening behind this *&%#! bus)<br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7-IIlFgQ4Go/YWcTSaihmFI/AAAAAAAAMNE/_IsrXGSn5bMCCMe7CCqpLUeAU078pqNswCPcBGAsYHg/s3216/Cheetah%2Bwith%2Bprey.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2232" data-original-width="3216" height="444" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7-IIlFgQ4Go/YWcTSaihmFI/AAAAAAAAMNE/_IsrXGSn5bMCCMe7CCqpLUeAU078pqNswCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h444/Cheetah%2Bwith%2Bprey.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Gotcha--the gazelle was still wriggling<br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><span style="font-family: verdana;">By the time of our visit, towards the end of the safari season, the predators were pretty well-fed. The lions and crocodiles were living the life but still didn't really make a dent in the huge prey populations. We were very fortunate to be able to see everything we saw. It was worth the 9-hour bus ride from Tanga to Arusha (and back) and do the kids really need to go to college anyway?</span></span><p></p><p></p>SV Perryhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16973086223410951684noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1338862963076957389.post-60876877156416587662021-09-23T00:00:00.086-05:002021-09-23T00:00:00.207-05:00Seychelles to Tanzania<p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"> </span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-o2KkRS7UReQ/YUsmgclCrKI/AAAAAAAAMF8/JqSgKfDmddE9vhP0WHVqxm_3Ov69aotegCPcBGAsYHg/s3636/Stone%2BTown%2Bfish%2Bmonger.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2316" data-original-width="3636" height="408" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-o2KkRS7UReQ/YUsmgclCrKI/AAAAAAAAMF8/JqSgKfDmddE9vhP0WHVqxm_3Ov69aotegCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h408/Stone%2BTown%2Bfish%2Bmonger.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Our six-day passage from the Seychelles to Tanzania was <a href="https://www.svperry.com/2018/05/fast-and-hard-or-slow-and-easy.html" target="_blank">bumpy and fast</a>.
The confused seas made most of the passage uncomfortable, punctuated too often by the
big bangs of the waves slamming against <i>Perry's</i> underside. So we were very happy to see <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zanzibar" target="_blank">Zanzibar</a> (birthplace of <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Freddie_Mercury" target="_blank">Freddie Mercury</a>) on the horizon, even as we put another reef in the mainsail
ahead of an imminent squall.</span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span></span></span></span></p><a name='more'></a><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KOElBIUKvZE/YUsmxhbobhI/AAAAAAAAMGE/i4G4zi5E4b4hEAVfe-G2POO-UToGXpIiwCPcBGAsYHg/s3438/dhow.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1938" data-original-width="3438" height="360" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KOElBIUKvZE/YUsmxhbobhI/AAAAAAAAMGE/i4G4zi5E4b4hEAVfe-G2POO-UToGXpIiwCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h360/dhow.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">The local dhows are strangely fast</span></span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><span style="font-family: verdana;">The anchorage off <a href="https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/173/" target="_blank">Stone Town</a> was far from flat but
was a welcome relief after the rough passage. After tossing away the
partially desiccated baker's dozen of flying fish and the baby squid that had collected on our
trampolines, we prepared to head to shore. We dragged the dinghy all the way up the
beach (the three-plus meter tides were good motivation to fix our busted dinghy
wheel--more on that later) and started the process of checking into the country
and getting a SIM card.</span></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"> </span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"></span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qOMBHlzTdlU/YUsnD_gOLoI/AAAAAAAAMGM/1FpGqRmXUuE3uwKxh9U519g7TgWpfVAGwCPcBGAsYHg/s3752/Stone%2BTown%2BIndia%2Bdoor.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3752" data-original-width="2322" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qOMBHlzTdlU/YUsnD_gOLoI/AAAAAAAAMGM/1FpGqRmXUuE3uwKxh9U519g7TgWpfVAGwCPcBGAsYHg/w396-h640/Stone%2BTown%2BIndia%2Bdoor.jpg" width="396" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Stone Town's doors are a point of pride</span></span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"> </span></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Stone Town is one of the handful of places that we had previously had the pleasure of visiting to while living on land. Usually, when returning to a location, it's
been over fifteen years and <a href="https://www.svperry.com/2015/10/lifes-short-and-fiji-is-great.html" target="_blank">some of the places</a> are almost unrecognizable. The focus
of our last visit to Tanzania 17 years ago was climbing Mt. Kilimanjaro and
going on safari. We had only stopped in Stone Town for a couple days (during Ramadan). This visit, we had time to more fully explore the narrow, ancient streets of
what seems like a really big maze (and we are not the smartest rats). We would see the same landmarks over and
over but have no real sense of how we got there until the third day or so.</span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"> </span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iRbBg3RJfog/YUsoYsvC_SI/AAAAAAAAMGY/N_zJ7TPNvtEgZRKme3U4sajlsyWUOMgwgCPcBGAsYHg/s4128/Stone%2BTown%2Bcathedral.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2322" data-original-width="4128" height="360" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iRbBg3RJfog/YUsoYsvC_SI/AAAAAAAAMGY/N_zJ7TPNvtEgZRKme3U4sajlsyWUOMgwgCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h360/Stone%2BTown%2Bcathedral.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/St._Joseph%27s_Cathedral,_Zanzibar" target="_blank"><span style="font-family: verdana;">St. Joseph's Cathedral</span></a></span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span><p></p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">
</span></span><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">The number of locals trying to sell spices, knick-knacks or
tours way outstrips the tourists, so by the end of a walk we ended up feeling a
bit drained with all the 'No thank you's'. But the friendliness of Tanzanians is real even when not trying to sell you anything. As Matt replaced the axle and fixed the flat tire on our dingy
wheel, a crowd of men gathered to 'help'. They meant well but ended up mostly
being a distraction. For no apparent reason, one gentleman picked up a hammer
from Matt's bag of tools and randomly started pounding on the axle until Matt
asked him to stop.</span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"></span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vIEuBHssq_k/YUsrANqLXQI/AAAAAAAAMGk/fnwruuDuDj04-hjBki8B1P0qVYnNayRFgCPcBGAsYHg/s3270/Stone%2BTown%2Broof%2Btops.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2208" data-original-width="3270" height="432" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vIEuBHssq_k/YUsrANqLXQI/AAAAAAAAMGk/fnwruuDuDj04-hjBki8B1P0qVYnNayRFgCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h432/Stone%2BTown%2Broof%2Btops.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">A view of the maze from above</span></span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"> </span></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">But without the help of some of the locals, we would have had a hell of a time getting a SIM card or finding the machine shop that helped us with the stubborn dinghy wheel. Google maps doesn't have an icon for "the guy on the corner selling possibly-preowned SIM cards to a non-local" or "the dude near the school who fixes bike flats for the kids".<br /></span></span></p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">
</span></span><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Tanzania is much more affordable for us than the Seychelles and
we have been able to enjoy eating out again. We were able to visit the
<a href="https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g488129-d1218633-Reviews-Forodhani_Gardens-Stone_Town_Zanzibar_City_Zanzibar_Island_Zanzibar_Archipelago.html" target="_blank">Forodhani Gardens</a> night market, which we missed the last time around because we enjoyed a <a href="https://www.emersonspice.com/restaurants/" target="_blank">fancy rooftop dinner and show</a>. Street food is
one of our favorite things and the eclectic mix of cultures and flavors makes
this one of the best eating experiences we have had in awhile.</span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We're now in <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tanga,_Tanzania" target="_blank">Tanga</a>, near the northern limit of Tanzania, saying goodbye to some of our cruiser friends (who we hope to see again in South Africa) and getting ready for a safari.<br /></span></span></p>SV Perryhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16973086223410951684noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1338862963076957389.post-81080223944441826952021-08-28T23:00:00.065-05:002021-08-28T23:00:00.194-05:00Cruising the Seychelles<p> </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1qDk9rQvA4w/YSoxLvv_jAI/AAAAAAAAMBQ/TDeopqxSlBIk2DvFm-Kexr7UPxp_IXJGwCPcBGAsYHg/s4128/Baie%2BGeorgette.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2322" data-original-width="4128" height="360" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1qDk9rQvA4w/YSoxLvv_jAI/AAAAAAAAMBQ/TDeopqxSlBIk2DvFm-Kexr7UPxp_IXJGwCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h360/Baie%2BGeorgette.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-size: small;">Baie Georgette - Our view after a long hike from Anse Lazio<br /></span></span></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Most of our time in the Seychelles has been spent on the main island of Mah</span><span style="font-size: medium;"><span>é. These last few weeks we were finally able to get over to the other two 'big' islands: Praslin and La Digue.</span></span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span></span></span></span></p><a name='more'></a><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Myh_8JOhUL4/YSoyMufCwFI/AAAAAAAAMBo/kqPJnF5cH0Mc6AuW_lmvrO2yYuCU7JUzACPcBGAsYHg/s4128/Anse%2BLazio%2Bview.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2322" data-original-width="4128" height="360" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Myh_8JOhUL4/YSoyMufCwFI/AAAAAAAAMBo/kqPJnF5cH0Mc6AuW_lmvrO2yYuCU7JUzACPcBGAsYHg/w640-h360/Anse%2BLazio%2Bview.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Anse Lazio (in Baie Chevalier on Praslin)</span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><span></span></span><p></p><p><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span>Our sail to Baie Chevalier on Praslin took about 8 hours rather than the normal 4 hours because the normally ever-present wind had died for the day. We knew this but were eager to escape the waters near Eden Marina. So we hiked up our spinnaker and sailed verrrry slowly.</span></span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DQjg4xFGTxI/YSoz8HyhnvI/AAAAAAAAMCA/B6gNPg3kVPo_e1KtXewLVDxXmZ4ngbMDwCPcBGAsYHg/s4128/View%2Bfrom%2BZimbabwe%2Broad.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2322" data-original-width="4128" height="360" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DQjg4xFGTxI/YSoz8HyhnvI/AAAAAAAAMCA/B6gNPg3kVPo_e1KtXewLVDxXmZ4ngbMDwCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h360/View%2Bfrom%2BZimbabwe%2Broad.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">The view from 'Zimbabwe' (the local nickname for Grand Fond on Praslin)</span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-size: medium;">It was nice to get back to what we think of as cruising, which involves anchoring in less crowded areas where we can explore (and fix the boat as needed). Praslin and La Digue, although chock full of tourists, did not disappoint. We found beaches with interesting surf and soft, white sand. There were stunning views and tortoises. We were again grateful to be able to spend the time to enjoy all this at a leisurely pace.<br /></span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-size: medium;">On the 'no this isn't just a permanent vacation' front, we're still doing school, laundry in a bucket and boat maintenance. Matt had to replace a seal in one of our water-maker pumps, re-bedded a trampoline eye-bolt, installed some of the boat parts I brought back with me, and has been chasing down the air that keeps building up in the port engine fuel lines (which makes itself known by shutting down the engine at inconvenient times).<br /></span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5ptOvZ9imdg/YSoz8KppeBI/AAAAAAAAMCA/bB-Wg1d0u0o5bu-xeu7zHoTqp_vJeJS7ACPcBGAsYHg/s4128/Rock%2Bon%2BBaie%2BGeorgette%2Boverlook.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2322" data-original-width="4128" height="360" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5ptOvZ9imdg/YSoz8KppeBI/AAAAAAAAMCA/bB-Wg1d0u0o5bu-xeu7zHoTqp_vJeJS7ACPcBGAsYHg/w640-h360/Rock%2Bon%2BBaie%2BGeorgette%2Boverlook.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We love the rocks in the Seychelles</span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Mark and Conrad have been enjoying the surf at Anse Lazio. It has made landing the dinghy a bit challenging at times and we did get a face full of water once. But at least we didn't suffer the fate of a recent charter boat passenger who had to be rushed to the hospital after the dinghy he was in flipped. The outboard engine prop sliced him open in a few places, but we heard that he was mostly okay after a number of stitches.</span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Hlq5TKNB630/YSo1il8DtoI/AAAAAAAAMCM/QSJ-1JV4nVMxppqEZQMtO26kqgnnTKJTQCPcBGAsYHg/s4128/Roots%2Bon%2Bbuilding%2BCurieuse.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3096" data-original-width="4128" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Hlq5TKNB630/YSo1il8DtoI/AAAAAAAAMCM/QSJ-1JV4nVMxppqEZQMtO26kqgnnTKJTQCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h480/Roots%2Bon%2Bbuilding%2BCurieuse.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Ile Curieuse: This reminded us of <a href="https://www.svperry.com/2020/01/road-trip-to-cambodia.html" target="_blank">Angkor Wat</a><br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RTNHBeFnnYw/YSo1igJ3eRI/AAAAAAAAMCM/flxaU6RwSugzM44iWLZMCjrYf5AgeSn_wCPcBGAsYHg/s4128/Tortoise%2Bby%2Bbeach%2B-%2BCurieuse.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3096" data-original-width="4128" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RTNHBeFnnYw/YSo1igJ3eRI/AAAAAAAAMCM/flxaU6RwSugzM44iWLZMCjrYf5AgeSn_wCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h480/Tortoise%2Bby%2Bbeach%2B-%2BCurieuse.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ile Curieuse is filled with tortoises<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4eG0pgJu7Ck/YSo1insrP9I/AAAAAAAAMCM/US6AUPrvAnUUTOPETSmjxWPNMub_FT6NQCPcBGAsYHg/s2982/M%2Band%2BC%2Bwith%2BCoco%2Bde%2BMer.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1956" data-original-width="2982" height="420" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4eG0pgJu7Ck/YSo1insrP9I/AAAAAAAAMCM/US6AUPrvAnUUTOPETSmjxWPNMub_FT6NQCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h420/M%2Band%2BC%2Bwith%2BCoco%2Bde%2BMer.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Up close and personal with a Coco de Mer nut<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><span> </span></span></span><p></p><p><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span>We only spent a couple nights at La Digue because the anchorage was rolly and uncomfortable (and there was no room to tie up inside the harbor). However, we were able to rent bicycles and see most of the island. We spent a long but fun day biking around the island, doing a walk from one beach to a couple others, and stopping for lunch at the first restaurant we have been to since the Maldives.</span></span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cPzlDLNQhc8/YSo35i85IgI/AAAAAAAAMCY/Yf_Grb1M9REZxERipnaJl7NUVJUMKDCMgCPcBGAsYHg/s4128/Biking%2Balong%2Bwater%2BJ.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2322" data-original-width="4128" height="360" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cPzlDLNQhc8/YSo35i85IgI/AAAAAAAAMCY/Yf_Grb1M9REZxERipnaJl7NUVJUMKDCMgCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h360/Biking%2Balong%2Bwater%2BJ.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><span>La Digue was as great as <a href="https://www.svperry.com/2021/08/around-seychelles.html" target="_blank">everyone said</a>. It is a sleepier version of </span></span></span><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Mah</span><span style="font-size: medium;"><span>é</span></span></span>. The mostly car-less roads allowed us to re-hone our bike skills without being run over, though some of the hills were a challenge for our sea-level legs. Also, it's a good thing Matt used to spend his college summers fixing bikes because we had a couple of technical glitches with the rental bikes. Tourists with busted bikes must be a common sight around the island.</span></span></span><p></p><p><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Jt9Zfj5tK-U/YSo4wIC2AjI/AAAAAAAAMCg/M0UtAbDFKfYFX3LjTPlbrV3VLBJxBcmQACPcBGAsYHg/s4128/La%2BDigue%2Btortoise%2Bin%2Broad%2Bwith%2Btruck.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2322" data-original-width="4128" height="360" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Jt9Zfj5tK-U/YSo4wIC2AjI/AAAAAAAAMCg/M0UtAbDFKfYFX3LjTPlbrV3VLBJxBcmQACPcBGAsYHg/w640-h360/La%2BDigue%2Btortoise%2Bin%2Broad%2Bwith%2Btruck.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Local 'speed bump'</span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><span>Where else can you find a tortoise in the middle of the road? Tortoises are not quite as common as pigeons in the Seychelles but there certainly is no shortage of the shelled reptiles. We hadn't been particularly afraid of them even though they come right up to you to look for food. But then we read about <a href="https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwiI4LPj6NPyAhUS6OAKHR48AOQQwqsBegQICBAB&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3D5NsaR576XqQ&usg=AOvVaw2ZwchdO99FuPNZ1RnbL3Ek" target="_blank">this</a> apparently carnivorous tortoise.<br /></span></span></span><p></p><p><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span></span></span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kUYe9XlUg7A/YSo5JDD3VVI/AAAAAAAAMCo/YgfF0yNTn5czsdHop0G_F9X0a_zyfoB8wCPcBGAsYHg/s3030/Mark%2Bon%2Bbike%2Bnear%2Btortoise.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2004" data-original-width="3030" height="424" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kUYe9XlUg7A/YSo5JDD3VVI/AAAAAAAAMCo/YgfF0yNTn5czsdHop0G_F9X0a_zyfoB8wCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h424/Mark%2Bon%2Bbike%2Bnear%2Btortoise.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Mark skirting a road tortoise - it takes a steady hand</span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span>We continue to be impressed by the friendliness of the Seychellois people and the beauty of the country. The cool nights and relative lack of mosquitos are a bonus too.<br /></span></span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span><br /></span></span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JBs89mCnl8Y/YSo53NyXcqI/AAAAAAAAMCw/xFYjHUiRS3MUQIXL_YpnRaIaW2ogFM5NwCPcBGAsYHg/s4128/Rocks%2BLa%2BDigue.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2322" data-original-width="4128" height="360" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JBs89mCnl8Y/YSo53NyXcqI/AAAAAAAAMCw/xFYjHUiRS3MUQIXL_YpnRaIaW2ogFM5NwCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h360/Rocks%2BLa%2BDigue.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">More rocks, this time on La Digue<br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2322" data-original-width="4128" height="360" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rHv_7EEv4Nc/YSo53K-CUTI/AAAAAAAAMCw/yH_tK0sO1Mogojs968boannEKKr2duXXQCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h360/Conrad%2Bbeach%2BLa%2BDigue.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="640" /></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Making the kids walk from one beach to see another beach<br /></td></tr></tbody></table></span></span></span><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OG-3DFIttgE/YSo53Dq2dmI/AAAAAAAAMCw/MHa9Pp2JIdw6IpxraQsqBaqmkcYExHQ9QCPcBGAsYHg/s4128/Sunset%2BBaie%2BChevalier.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2322" data-original-width="4128" height="360" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OG-3DFIttgE/YSo53Dq2dmI/AAAAAAAAMCw/MHa9Pp2JIdw6IpxraQsqBaqmkcYExHQ9QCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h360/Sunset%2BBaie%2BChevalier.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Green flash count: 1 (Matt, allegedly)</span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"></span><p></p>SV Perryhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16973086223410951684noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1338862963076957389.post-9976122234816694832021-08-14T23:00:00.086-05:002021-08-15T01:19:44.288-05:00Around Seychelles<p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vEq-Ee46SIc/YRe3RIA-x0I/AAAAAAAAL8E/9wK6tXv1y6ois7KQIfc9HwMnDDXLYdK1QCPcBGAsYHg/s4128/Praslin.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3096" data-original-width="4128" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vEq-Ee46SIc/YRe3RIA-x0I/AAAAAAAAL8E/9wK6tXv1y6ois7KQIfc9HwMnDDXLYdK1QCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h480/Praslin.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-size: small;">View of our anchorage at Praslin Island</span><br /></span></span></td></tr></tbody></table><p><br /><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-size: medium;">This is a bit of a catch-up post, since it's been awhile (I was in the States for about a month visiting family).</span></span></span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-size: medium;"> </span></span>We made it to Praslin, which is one of the other "main" islands that we are allowed to go to in the Seychelles (there's a quirky mix of private/public/ and marine national park islands here, so you need to to do your research or else you can get turned away or hit with a pretty hefty visitor fee). It's nice to have clearer water after the Eden Island anchorage, which has very 'nutrient rich' (aka 'poopy') waters.</span></span></p><p></p><p><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span></span></span></span></p><a name='more'></a><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-l_CiLxESRA4/YRe6K-qP3JI/AAAAAAAAL80/kLsqvkGG6Gc_vsfc0TtIdz-efbFinhnKwCPcBGAsYHg/s4128/Little%2BBig%2BBen.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3096" data-original-width="4128" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-l_CiLxESRA4/YRe6K-qP3JI/AAAAAAAAL80/kLsqvkGG6Gc_vsfc0TtIdz-efbFinhnKwCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h480/Little%2BBig%2BBen.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Little Big Ben is the best-known landmark in Victoria, the Capitol</span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-size: medium;"> </span></span><p></p><p><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-size: medium;">And we escaped the long-stay inducing, flat water of Eden just in time, too. <i>Perry's</i> bottom needs a good scrubbing and it was time to make water again. <br /></span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4pJYInQIz4M/YRe7W3ZeObI/AAAAAAAAL88/jmyx7eg_7jkXPbsMdm053ONKiPxy-ziSgCPcBGAsYHg/s3162/Mark%2Bcupcake.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3054" data-original-width="3162" height="618" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4pJYInQIz4M/YRe7W3ZeObI/AAAAAAAAL88/jmyx7eg_7jkXPbsMdm053ONKiPxy-ziSgCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h618/Mark%2Bcupcake.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-size: small;">Jen on <i>Longreach </i>made these festive cupcakes. And she's an Aussie!</span></span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-size: medium;"> </span></span><p></p><p><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-size: medium;">We had a July 4 celebration hosted on <i>Perry </i>with several other boats in the anchorage: Americans, Brits ('oppressors'), and Australians ('fellow oppressed'). Andrew on <a href="https://www.oddgodfrey.com/oddlog" target="_blank"><i>Sonrisa</i></a> organized everything and everyone contributed. We had all the fixings: burgers, hot dogs, fried chicken, corn on the cob, watermelon, and salads and desserts. It was a fun time with friends and, as with all the best celebrations, everyone ate and drank too much.</span></span></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pTF3PNAXAJE/YRe9w1OksCI/AAAAAAAAL9Q/_j9TJWP1TWYpgSJ8Cl-uRsQ3H_DzPlhUACPcBGAsYHg/s4128/Sauzier%2BWaterfall.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4128" data-original-width="3096" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pTF3PNAXAJE/YRe9w1OksCI/AAAAAAAAL9Q/_j9TJWP1TWYpgSJ8Cl-uRsQ3H_DzPlhUACPcBGAsYHg/w480-h640/Sauzier%2BWaterfall.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-size: small;">Sauzier Waterfall<br /></span></span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Before I left, we took a drive around Mahé (the main island) where we have spent most of our time in the Seychelles. Sauzier waterfall in Port Glaud is one of the sights that you need a car to reach.<br /></span></span><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jiE8w0Ek2Fk/YRe_YHl-utI/AAAAAAAAL9c/EKkElDpB2tkNqc-gvsFubyrsBPzEoR3cwCPcBGAsYHg/s4128/Gen%2Binjector.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3096" data-original-width="4128" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jiE8w0Ek2Fk/YRe_YHl-utI/AAAAAAAAL9c/EKkElDpB2tkNqc-gvsFubyrsBPzEoR3cwCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h480/Gen%2Binjector.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-size: medium;">While I was away, Matt did fun things like remove the generator injectors to have them serviced. Of course, things like that never go very smoothly and it took a couple days of effort to extract one stubborn injector. In the end, Matt prevailed and we now have a much cleaner-running generator. There was also a fuel selector valve that allowed air in the line and caused the port engine to die when Matt and the kids took <i>Perry</i> out to make water. Oh, and the kitchen faucet that sprung a leak and was letting out our precious fresh water. The fun never stops around here.<br /></span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-adbcxyveQXw/YRfAe1ugwJI/AAAAAAAAL9k/lvSOgjCmgPoqEE-g2OKq3epksFJRgGrpgCPcBGAsYHg/s1040/Perry%2Brainbow.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="780" data-original-width="1040" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-adbcxyveQXw/YRfAe1ugwJI/AAAAAAAAL9k/lvSOgjCmgPoqEE-g2OKq3epksFJRgGrpgCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h480/Perry%2Brainbow.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">There are more rainbows here than anywhere we've been. Which is just another way of saying that constant sprinkles (no, not the good cupcake kind) are a way of life here.</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td></tr></tbody></table><p> </p><p></p><p><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-size: medium;">We visited <a href="https://www.facebook.com/SMACAdventures/" target="_blank">SMAC Adventures</a> for a really fun zip-lining outing. Rather than just one or two lines, you follow a progression of eight (I think?--I lost count!) lines down the hill. 'Coming in hot' might be one of their taglines and it was a little disconcerting at first because it wasn't clear what was going to stop you at the end of the line. Fortunately, they were well-designed to slow you down at the right time (helped at times by the crew creating friction by vigorously pulling the line up and down--I hope your arm isn't getting tired, dude).</span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: verdana;"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-x5aAASaix_o/YRfCM-GlxAI/AAAAAAAAL9w/baJ4nL5R1EMAZFRDuC22kz7IMcl-hp5twCPcBGAsYHg/s1112/C%2Bzipline.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="618" data-original-width="1112" height="356" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-x5aAASaix_o/YRfCM-GlxAI/AAAAAAAAL9w/baJ4nL5R1EMAZFRDuC22kz7IMcl-hp5twCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h356/C%2Bzipline.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Conrad of the jungle</span>.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: verdana;"><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CcxRlhUAI7g/YRfCMyqjVlI/AAAAAAAAL9w/MiTwAZFtyuUQOehyiLyQs2SIeSXmeqBtQCPcBGAsYHg/s1138/J%2Bzipline.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="632" data-original-width="1138" height="356" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CcxRlhUAI7g/YRfCMyqjVlI/AAAAAAAAL9w/MiTwAZFtyuUQOehyiLyQs2SIeSXmeqBtQCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h356/J%2Bzipline.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Does this harness make my butt look big?<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fkryxNRbCjs/YRfCZ87TwjI/AAAAAAAAL90/ZuXhypGirXg7OvNsmx3Aye5TpGoVtk0RwCPcBGAsYHg/s3426/C%2Bblowing%2Bup%2Bglove.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3060" data-original-width="3426" height="572" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fkryxNRbCjs/YRfCZ87TwjI/AAAAAAAAL90/ZuXhypGirXg7OvNsmx3Aye5TpGoVtk0RwCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h572/C%2Bblowing%2Bup%2Bglove.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-size: small;">Fun with used rubber gloves. He could <b>not </b>fit it over his head.<br /></span></span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p></p><p><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-size: medium;">After Praslin, we will head over to La Digue. There are almost no cars on the island and everyone rides bikes everywhere. Everyone keeps telling us that we will love it, which is making me a little afraid that it won't live up to our expectations. There are benefits and drawbacks to visiting places where so many of your friends and other cruisers have already been.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-size: medium;">In the meantime, we are cleaning the science-project of a boat bottom. It's been over 3 months since it was last done properly. The growth comes off relatively easily but was definitely slowing us down (our trip to Praslin averaged only 3 knots with the spinnaker, mostly because of the lack of wind, but our dirty bottom certainly didn't help). Our days right now are all cold water (80 degrees is cold for us), bitey shrimp, and complaining. But there's a nice beach and clean water at the other end of the rainbow (which means it's raining again... gotta run and close the hatches).</span></span><br /></p>SV Perryhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16973086223410951684noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1338862963076957389.post-62296597625977677572021-06-17T23:00:00.007-05:002021-06-17T23:00:00.230-05:00Seychelles by the seashore<p> </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IZdVyZBWGMo/YMsurYfW9QI/AAAAAAAALy4/IjtEVt-xbzortiUx0Os7YLDzq7C9JBK8gCPcBGAsYHg/s4128/Two%2Btortoises.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3096" data-original-width="4128" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IZdVyZBWGMo/YMsurYfW9QI/AAAAAAAALy4/IjtEVt-xbzortiUx0Os7YLDzq7C9JBK8gCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h480/Two%2Btortoises.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Tortoises in the Victoria Botanical Gardens<br /></span></span></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We didn't do a lot of walking in the <a href="https://www.svperry.com/2021/03/i-dont-care-what-anyone-says-we-love.html" target="_blank">Maldives</a> or <a href="https://www.svperry.com/2021/06/chagos-to-seychelles.html" target="_blank">Chagos</a>, so all the walking we're doing here in the Seychelles has taken some getting used to (if you read that as 'there is a lot of whining going on', you're not wrong). You would think that after all these years, the transitions would be easy, but things like going on passage after being at anchor for just a week or two is still an adjustment. <br /></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span></span></span></span></p><a name='more'></a><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HlAYzPKnurQ/YMsw1WApKzI/AAAAAAAALzU/J5uzfk7v2eUVOe62U290fJG4wAtSg2V0QCPcBGAsYHg/s4128/Seychelles%2BMahe%2Bapproach.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3096" data-original-width="4128" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HlAYzPKnurQ/YMsw1WApKzI/AAAAAAAALzU/J5uzfk7v2eUVOe62U290fJG4wAtSg2V0QCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h480/Seychelles%2BMahe%2Bapproach.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Land ho! The approach to Mahé Island (the main island)<br /></td></tr></tbody></table></span></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">After a night spent in the quarantine anchorage, we moved over near <a href="https://www.edenisland.sc/seychelles/" target="_blank">Eden Island</a>, which is man-made and pretty upscale by our standards (which are admittedly low). After a long social drought where we saw <a href="https://www.svperry.com/2020/12/this-is-what-passes-for-excitement.html" target="_blank">no cruisers</a> and then just a <a href="https://www.svperry.com/2021/02/30-in-restaurant.html" target="_blank">few cruisers</a>, we pulled into a very crowded anchorage filled with <a href="https://www.sailingsteelsapphire.com/" target="_blank">old friends</a> and <a href="https://www.oddgodfrey.com/oddlog" target="_blank">new</a>. The Seychelles is a popular stopping point for yachts headed in all directions and a few boats have been here since last year.<br /></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">And we walked: formalities, groceries, boat bits and a bit of sightseeing. There are more cars and fewer motorbikes here than throughout most of Southeast and South Asia, but we walk everywhere. We might rent a car or take a bus at some point, but for now we (mostly) like the exercise and pace. <br /></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"></span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zPAb0zshX-Q/YMsy5JUGfNI/AAAAAAAALzg/nfU08klMHrUfqkcTgCnyS7xALQoVYzSeQCPcBGAsYHg/s3900/M%2Band%2BC%2Bwith%2Btortoises.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2916" data-original-width="3900" height="478" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zPAb0zshX-Q/YMsy5JUGfNI/AAAAAAAALzg/nfU08klMHrUfqkcTgCnyS7xALQoVYzSeQCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h478/M%2Band%2BC%2Bwith%2Btortoises.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></span></div><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Having dropped off our ripped head sail for repair and started the temporary import process needed if your boat stays longer than 30 days, we moved around to the other side of Mahé island. The water is cleaner and clearer at <a href="https://www.seyvillas.com/en/guide/beaches/mahe/47/beau-vallon" target="_blank">Beau Vallon</a>, so we can swim, clean the boat bottom, and run the water maker.<br /></span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-h6eZkb8vAZs/YMsy5FVycuI/AAAAAAAALzg/bJjchmWU9-QHzz-wZAr7JJUyx7KkgghVACPcBGAsYHg/s3078/M%2Bwith%2Btortoise.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3078" data-original-width="2592" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-h6eZkb8vAZs/YMsy5FVycuI/AAAAAAAALzg/bJjchmWU9-QHzz-wZAr7JJUyx7KkgghVACPcBGAsYHg/w538-h640/M%2Bwith%2Btortoise.jpg" width="538" /></a></span></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><br /> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wk7PhkjhLzc/YMs0DrG2-EI/AAAAAAAALzo/COqZBjw0d-ADiWjBnD2udvyz5e6oe34iQCPcBGAsYHg/s3144/Turtle.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3144" data-original-width="2241" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wk7PhkjhLzc/YMs0DrG2-EI/AAAAAAAALzo/COqZBjw0d-ADiWjBnD2udvyz5e6oe34iQCPcBGAsYHg/w456-h640/Turtle.JPG" width="456" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A <a href="https://www.svperry.com/2015/03/isla-san-cristobol-and-isla-santa-cruz.html" target="_blank">Galapagos</a> tortoise--my how the size tables have turned<br /></td></tr></tbody></table></span></span><br /><p></p>SV Perryhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16973086223410951684noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1338862963076957389.post-33394074675864153472021-06-08T22:09:00.000-05:002021-06-08T22:09:41.996-05:00Chagos to Seychelles<p> </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1OipMcmVlyU/YL8VmPfqD4I/AAAAAAAALvQ/rTKcPAdiw5YvBDvKtSYz7YW3J-8yUNMTgCPcBGAsYHg/s3504/Conrad%2Band%2Bcoconut%2Bcrab.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2336" data-original-width="3504" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1OipMcmVlyU/YL8VmPfqD4I/AAAAAAAALvQ/rTKcPAdiw5YvBDvKtSYz7YW3J-8yUNMTgCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h426/Conrad%2Band%2Bcoconut%2Bcrab.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">The coconut crabs have grown a bit since they became protected<br /></span></span></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We managed to be in Chagos (<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Salomon_Islands" target="_blank">Salomon Atoll</a>) for the exact dates on our permit (May 1 through May 28), which is pretty lucky given the vagaries of wind and weather. We saw exactly three boats while we were there (not counting the illegal fishing boat that we spotted several miles away): <a href="https://www.sailblogs.com/member/timebandit/" target="_blank"><i>Time Bandit</i></a>, <a href="https://www.outsidewatch.com/" target="_blank"><i>Skylark</i></a>, and <a href="http://svjeorgia.blogspot.com/2021/" target="_blank"><i>Georgia</i></a>. For about a week, it was just us and the wildlife.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span></span></span></span></p><a name='more'></a><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Nf_iZWGh9GI/YL8ZKzkfXiI/AAAAAAAALwI/CTxQOPCqSBcWUD8u1JYQ56CQi4m_NXe1wCPcBGAsYHg/s1032/Shark%2Bprofile%2B2.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="578" data-original-width="1032" height="358" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Nf_iZWGh9GI/YL8ZKzkfXiI/AAAAAAAALwI/CTxQOPCqSBcWUD8u1JYQ56CQi4m_NXe1wCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h358/Shark%2Bprofile%2B2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our resident black-tip reef sharks getting the remains of our catch.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /></span></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">The <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chagos_Archipelago" target="_blank">extreme absence of humans</a> has created a unique haven for the fish and animals (even more so than relatively remote areas of the <a href="https://www.svperry.com/2016/12/lots-of-villages-no-internet_14.html" target="_blank">Solomon Islands</a> and <a href="https://www.svperry.com/2017/08/boang-to-tabar-to-kavieng.html" target="_blank">Papua New Guinea</a>). With an already stringent permit process for visiting cruisers, Covid has shrunk the number of visitors this year to just a handful.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"> </span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Rg-ZB74bUbw/YL8cT6mkBdI/AAAAAAAALwU/NLneAPBgxeAQgJrT89QUiwSZ_1Th4QPowCPcBGAsYHg/s3096/Conrad%2Bwith%2Bbig%2Bgrouper.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3096" data-original-width="2730" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Rg-ZB74bUbw/YL8cT6mkBdI/AAAAAAAALwU/NLneAPBgxeAQgJrT89QUiwSZ_1Th4QPowCPcBGAsYHg/w564-h640/Conrad%2Bwith%2Bbig%2Bgrouper.jpg" width="564" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Conrad with his catch (coral trout)</span></span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><br /></span></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">All this meant that we got to see a flourishing bird, fish and crab population that hardly anyone can. The fish went after every lure put in front of them. We could have reached out and touched the nesting boobies if we had tried and saw more coconut crabs than we ever have.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"></span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uQ5OJ-iNxcM/YL8c8HSG26I/AAAAAAAALwc/lCpYJRmd0VMbDYqbjh4nCNMx-c-qx9zVgCPcBGAsYHg/s946/Sharks%2Bmultiple%2B2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="626" data-original-width="946" height="424" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uQ5OJ-iNxcM/YL8c8HSG26I/AAAAAAAALwc/lCpYJRmd0VMbDYqbjh4nCNMx-c-qx9zVgCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h424/Sharks%2Bmultiple%2B2.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></span></div><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">When our four weeks were up, on a wind and current forecast that was decent, we lifted anchor and headed to the Seychelles. Our eight-day passage was a mixed bag of wind, weather, and waves. There were a few squalls, 4-meter swells, bumpy current lines, and variable winds. We dove almost 200 miles south of the rhumb line (most direct route) to try and keep IN the winds and OUT of the opposing current--a strategy that mostly worked. It wasn't the fastest passage ever, but we sailed the whole time and even dusted off the asymmetrical spinnaker for an extra boost as we approached the Seychelles. </span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">The obligatory damage report: Our whisker pole got damaged during one of the bumpier parts of the passage and then a rip developed in the jib. One of the engine bilge pumps also decided to stop working, requiring that we manually pump out the stray seawater that wanders in during bigger seas. It could have been worse.<br /></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><br /></span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-K_Qfv06KjE0/YL8c8OeyFlI/AAAAAAAALwc/9gUm6mx_fHoDRWXDStlh5nFnifcD4m_DACPcBGAsYHg/s3504/Ile%2BBoddam%2Byacht%2Bclub.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2336" data-original-width="3504" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-K_Qfv06KjE0/YL8c8OeyFlI/AAAAAAAALwc/9gUm6mx_fHoDRWXDStlh5nFnifcD4m_DACPcBGAsYHg/w640-h426/Ile%2BBoddam%2Byacht%2Bclub.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-size: medium;">The 'yacht club' at Ile Boddam</span></span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">The beautiful hills of the Seychelles were a welcome sight after a week plus at sea (even the kids said, 'It's gorgeous!', which are not words you hear often from a teenager about scenery).</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><br /></span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ziQJLHKCF7g/YL8c8Gly4HI/AAAAAAAALwc/zNhKYmcQOIw3CpqSr_Whgv3uVZK_4i9FgCPcBGAsYHg/s3504/Ile%2BBoddam%2Bcemetary%2Bwith%2Bpeople.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2336" data-original-width="3504" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ziQJLHKCF7g/YL8c8Gly4HI/AAAAAAAALwc/zNhKYmcQOIw3CpqSr_Whgv3uVZK_4i9FgCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h426/Ile%2BBoddam%2Bcemetary%2Bwith%2Bpeople.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Cemetery at Ile Boddam with <i>Time Bandit</i></span></span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-i5KEhq2zOUQ/YL8c8LPNTrI/AAAAAAAALwc/59tNVN0CD0AyEGNBoy3yb2ejUQDzTpY-wCPcBGAsYHg/s3504/Ile%2BBoddam%2Bcemetary.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2336" data-original-width="3504" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-i5KEhq2zOUQ/YL8c8LPNTrI/AAAAAAAALwc/59tNVN0CD0AyEGNBoy3yb2ejUQDzTpY-wCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h426/Ile%2BBoddam%2Bcemetary.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">People are allowed to come in periodically to tend to the cemetery grounds.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TnZi6RJG3Hg/YL8c8J1TsGI/AAAAAAAALwc/DBNNFMqOt3g9sj1Q30I1hAiQNWeUDHxdwCPcBGAsYHg/s3504/Ile%2BBoddam%2Bbuilding%2Bwith%2Bstrangler%2Bfig.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2336" data-original-width="3504" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TnZi6RJG3Hg/YL8c8J1TsGI/AAAAAAAALwc/DBNNFMqOt3g9sj1Q30I1hAiQNWeUDHxdwCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h426/Ile%2BBoddam%2Bbuilding%2Bwith%2Bstrangler%2Bfig.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ruins of the settlement at Ile Boddam<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /></span></span><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LAeAW5tAB74/YL8c8BrEADI/AAAAAAAALwc/hvOxsHKGDpE9zR8EKJ-JSBgtk-1MxvZEQCPcBGAsYHg/s2828/Coconut%2Bcrab%2Bclose-up.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2172" data-original-width="2828" height="492" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LAeAW5tAB74/YL8c8BrEADI/AAAAAAAALwc/hvOxsHKGDpE9zR8EKJ-JSBgtk-1MxvZEQCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h492/Coconut%2Bcrab%2Bclose-up.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cfW7JRn5nPg/YL8c8CkD9VI/AAAAAAAALwc/yZIu46IqsGI-qUnbJHItFnr__1YFB0gxACPcBGAsYHg/s3504/Ile%2BBoddam%2Bchurch.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3504" data-original-width="2336" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cfW7JRn5nPg/YL8c8CkD9VI/AAAAAAAALwc/yZIu46IqsGI-qUnbJHItFnr__1YFB0gxACPcBGAsYHg/w426-h640/Ile%2BBoddam%2Bchurch.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The church at Ile Boddam<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7LjaDLERsMQ/YL8gXmCwh_I/AAAAAAAALwo/2H_Wle4gtdQJGReKc-lwDkXTIUjspsA8ACPcBGAsYHg/s4480/Coconut%2Bcrab%2Bin%2Bcoconut.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2792" data-original-width="4480" height="398" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7LjaDLERsMQ/YL8gXmCwh_I/AAAAAAAALwo/2H_Wle4gtdQJGReKc-lwDkXTIUjspsA8ACPcBGAsYHg/w640-h398/Coconut%2Bcrab%2Bin%2Bcoconut.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It's a <u>coconut</u> crab in a <u>coconut</u> shell. We continued to find that amusing during our whole stay.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-r-gMdlEeQ_k/YL8gXk_jmbI/AAAAAAAALwo/OYchKhQRSJ8oUqVQLjPcDERtxRPC-kzHwCPcBGAsYHg/s3984/Nesting%2Bboobies.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2712" data-original-width="3984" height="436" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-r-gMdlEeQ_k/YL8gXk_jmbI/AAAAAAAALwo/OYchKhQRSJ8oUqVQLjPcDERtxRPC-kzHwCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h436/Nesting%2Bboobies.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Boobies! (red-footed). The fuzzy one is the chick and the other one is the Mom.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WNxtZW8kQ20/YL8gXsnqb5I/AAAAAAAALwo/X_OZegVI-gcpfX8mrdhX9czFveaa63GCACPcBGAsYHg/s2223/Eel%2Bat%2Blow%2Btide.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1482" data-original-width="2223" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WNxtZW8kQ20/YL8gXsnqb5I/AAAAAAAALwo/X_OZegVI-gcpfX8mrdhX9czFveaa63GCACPcBGAsYHg/w640-h426/Eel%2Bat%2Blow%2Btide.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Eel at low tide. Watch your toes.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SLekZ6DQ050/YL8gXlBXu6I/AAAAAAAALwo/twjA1lGoLqwUC2ifOewnoohblmj9FpsMACPcBGAsYHg/s3054/Hermit%2Bcrabs.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3054" data-original-width="2736" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SLekZ6DQ050/YL8gXlBXu6I/AAAAAAAALwo/twjA1lGoLqwUC2ifOewnoohblmj9FpsMACPcBGAsYHg/w574-h640/Hermit%2Bcrabs.JPG" width="574" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hermit crab shell swap.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0FrNgOahCek/YL8gXvce1II/AAAAAAAALwo/ejHiK6jgwS83OqEwnBrHEUHe4YB78nz3QCPcBGAsYHg/s4608/Beach%2Bat%2BIle%2Bde%2Bla%2BPasse.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3456" data-original-width="4608" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0FrNgOahCek/YL8gXvce1II/AAAAAAAALwo/ejHiK6jgwS83OqEwnBrHEUHe4YB78nz3QCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h480/Beach%2Bat%2BIle%2Bde%2Bla%2BPasse.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ile de la Passe<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZYXS86XXDQo/YL8gXoUnUaI/AAAAAAAALwo/dxtYroUXIf8jzeHkzTdyu84Z75tYZNgLACPcBGAsYHg/s3402/Kids%2Bby%2Btree.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3402" data-original-width="2676" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZYXS86XXDQo/YL8gXoUnUaI/AAAAAAAALwo/dxtYroUXIf8jzeHkzTdyu84Z75tYZNgLACPcBGAsYHg/w504-h640/Kids%2Bby%2Btree.JPG" width="504" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Non-native wildlife<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kutRoYJZRMc/YL8gXl-updI/AAAAAAAALwo/Lro6dTCC098QPQKZq1B0Xne_f5CsDWS7gCPcBGAsYHg/s3906/M%2Bwith%2Bsnapper.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3438" data-original-width="3906" height="564" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kutRoYJZRMc/YL8gXl-updI/AAAAAAAALwo/Lro6dTCC098QPQKZq1B0Xne_f5CsDWS7gCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h564/M%2Bwith%2Bsnapper.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of the smaller snappers</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /></span></span><br /><p></p>SV Perryhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16973086223410951684noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1338862963076957389.post-53479517312171621462021-05-04T21:04:00.000-05:002021-05-04T21:58:52.414-05:00Gan, Maldives to ChagosPassages are not my favorite part of cruising. Too often it's a bad version of Snow White's dwarves: Sleepy, Grumpy, Queasy. For this trip, 2 new dwarves decided to join in: Squally and Lumpy (the seas). On the bright side, we had mostly decent winds, were visited by pods of hundreds of dolphins, and the boobies that took refuge on our boat at night generally behaved themselves (no crash landing or throwing up on our heads as has been reported by other boats).
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<br>We managed to just beat the setting sun and pull into the Salomon atoll during daylight after two and a half days of sailing with just a few hours of motor-sailing at the beginning and end. The ability to sail was a good thing because our starboard engine decided to overheat and develop a leak at the heat exchanger cap bolt, leaving it out of commission until we can figure out what's ailing it. Our last day was spent dodging squalls with the accompanying reefing and unreefing of sails (lather, rinse, repeat) but we averaged 7 to 9 knots of boat speed. At the end, we were rewarded by the welcome sight of the lush Chagos isles, tiny fish jumping like popcorn, and a much anticipated good night's rest. We happily fell asleep to the sound of rain that we didn't have to sail through.
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<br>The next day, we stopped by to say hi to Time Bandit, who had gotten there a couple weeks earlier, and then went off to try our luck at trolling a lure from the dinghy. About two minutes in, we had hooked a little tunny. The cruisers who raved about the fishing were not exaggerating. One of the resident black-tip sharks happily gobbled up the remains after we filleted our catch.SV Perryhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16973086223410951684noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1338862963076957389.post-4004297363106006642021-04-28T21:08:00.001-05:002021-04-28T22:40:55.709-05:00To Chagos and beyond<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LuE3Ovap3f0/YIoTq-OXN4I/AAAAAAAALr0/Fr9U3EWORowsUtKIYPeMjF3pvBTY_ptfQCPcBGAsYHg/s3744/J%2Band%2Bkids%2Bwith%2Bwall%2Bart.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3030" data-original-width="3744" height="518" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LuE3Ovap3f0/YIoTq-OXN4I/AAAAAAAALr0/Fr9U3EWORowsUtKIYPeMjF3pvBTY_ptfQCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h518/J%2Band%2Bkids%2Bwith%2Bwall%2Bart.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">And, just like that (it seems), our three months in the Maldives is over and we head for Chagos. The weather and wind predictions are about as good as we can expect for this leg of our journey. We will probably have to motor at the beginning, until our wind fills in, and there may be some squalls. But we will be happy if we get <i>some </i>wind and not <i>too </i>many squalls.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span></span></span></span></p><a name='more'></a><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"> </span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8-AgB3koo00/YIoT2GjBZ1I/AAAAAAAALr4/wzaMZM03-f4EA44OhbwZ-c9YtQDquZx5gCPcBGAsYHg/s754/Turtle.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="462" data-original-width="754" height="392" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8-AgB3koo00/YIoT2GjBZ1I/AAAAAAAALr4/wzaMZM03-f4EA44OhbwZ-c9YtQDquZx5gCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h392/Turtle.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One last turtle shot (our anchorage is lousy with them)<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><br /></span></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We will be off the grid for up to four weeks in Chagos (only email through our satellite phone) and then for another two weeks or so to get to and into the Seychelles. This will be the longest time that we have been without access to any shopping (our Pacific crossing was only 20 days!), so we are packed to the brim with food and fuel. Because most of the inhabitants were '<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/British_Indian_Ocean_Territory" target="_blank">relocated</a>', Chagos is a relatively untouched marine sanctuary that very few people get to visit. We'll try to do a blog update at some point through our sat phone email, but with technology being involved, we can't make any promises.</span></span><br /></p>SV Perryhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16973086223410951684noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1338862963076957389.post-14770982401265126222021-04-15T22:00:00.052-05:002021-04-15T22:00:00.180-05:00Hunt for the Wilderchildren<p> <br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8JJTnruZSyw/YHfpghMv2RI/AAAAAAAALpo/E34YjWF1SHY1CqnnU9X1vC5nyBcDuGN2ACPcBGAsYHg/s3264/Search%2Bfor%2Bthe%2BWilderkids.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3264" data-original-width="2448" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8JJTnruZSyw/YHfpghMv2RI/AAAAAAAALpo/E34YjWF1SHY1CqnnU9X1vC5nyBcDuGN2ACPcBGAsYHg/w480-h640/Search%2Bfor%2Bthe%2BWilderkids.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><p></p><p><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><i>Notice: Google has notified us that our email subscription service is ending in July and users will no longer receive automated notifications when we post a new blog entry. Bear with us as we try to figure out what we need to do. </i><br /></span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-size: medium;">If you haven't seen <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hunt_for_the_Wilderpeople" target="_blank"><i>The Hunt for the Wilderpeople</i></a>, I highly recommend it. This photo above is a shot from our own 'private' island (occasionally visited by locals but not since the start of <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ramazan" target="_blank">Ramazan</a>). Conrad is expressing himself using found objects, a.k.a. garbage, of which there is plenty unfortunately. <br /></span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span></span></span></span></p><a name='more'></a><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OWGnAJ_vNgo/YHfsImMcaPI/AAAAAAAALp0/IeDRVpp7PLwL_PC8yNJrjBNVi_EOW7EXwCPcBGAsYHg/s4128/Fulangi%2Bisland.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3096" data-original-width="4128" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OWGnAJ_vNgo/YHfsImMcaPI/AAAAAAAALp0/IeDRVpp7PLwL_PC8yNJrjBNVi_EOW7EXwCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h480/Fulangi%2Bisland.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We have been enjoying the calm waters and lack of mosquitoes</span></span><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"> here </span></span> (a </span></span><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">huge plus!)</span></span> before we make our final push south for Gan, our last destination in the Maldives. We want to time our departure from the Maldives to maximize our Chagos permit, which begins on May 1. Hopefully the weather will cooperate.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"> </span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9z2gMr4MR8c/YHfs2csgOqI/AAAAAAAALp8/NSBCP9PyoxYWdI5ungOahNZhe93owG-ZACPcBGAsYHg/s4128/Dhigurah%2Bclinic.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3096" data-original-width="4128" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9z2gMr4MR8c/YHfs2csgOqI/AAAAAAAALp8/NSBCP9PyoxYWdI5ungOahNZhe93owG-ZACPcBGAsYHg/w640-h480/Dhigurah%2Bclinic.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Wahoo revenge souvenir of five stitches</span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><br /> </span></span><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Matt's stitches have healed up and he has been able to get into the water again. The snorkeling and fishing here has been good and the coral is in relatively good condition compared to some of our stops up north.</span></span><p></p><p><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-grWdeMFPAk4/YHfthBYDMjI/AAAAAAAALqI/KMDhGtWHYZUrfTeh1oujIjNhBuQoyr1CQCPcBGAsYHg/s1058/Reef%2Bat%2BFulangi.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="622" data-original-width="1058" height="376" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-grWdeMFPAk4/YHfthBYDMjI/AAAAAAAALqI/KMDhGtWHYZUrfTeh1oujIjNhBuQoyr1CQCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h376/Reef%2Bat%2BFulangi.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We have seen some huge schools of parrot fish here</span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-size: medium;">As <i>Javerne</i> and <i>Marsouin</i> have moved ahead, we finally met up with Paul and Chris on <i>Georgia</i>. We knew they were here in the Maldives, but had always been just in front of them as we have moved south. We haven't seen them since <a href="https://www.svperry.com/2015/09/would-have-could-have-should-have.html" target="_blank">Tonga</a>. It's been nice to catch up and reminisce. We all did a little beach clean-up and have seen some beautiful sunsets.<br /></span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xC9SOOxeHGU/YHfuW-XAz7I/AAAAAAAALqQ/zyTQ5AZUKkojAg0JDOQ_obRFx1DPIiphgCPcBGAsYHg/s3264/Fulangi%2Bsunset.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2448" data-original-width="3264" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xC9SOOxeHGU/YHfuW-XAz7I/AAAAAAAALqQ/zyTQ5AZUKkojAg0JDOQ_obRFx1DPIiphgCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h480/Fulangi%2Bsunset.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></span></div><p><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-size: medium;">In case you were wondering, boat work continues to call. Matt had to replace a sheared off bolt (a bell housing, engine mount bolt in case you were wondering--yeah, I didn't think so), which is one of the boat jobs that sounds simple but takes multiple days, with much swearing and sweating. In the end, you have that feeling of accomplishment that you get from working hours on something, even though you only ended up where you were before the thing broke in the first place.</span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8-wnT517Pz0/YHfuW0fxyII/AAAAAAAALqQ/gKHBdKTU8wcWJ1gzDzq_XzUk1MBEOb_sgCPcBGAsYHg/s3264/Dhigurah%2Bsunset.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2448" data-original-width="3264" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8-wnT517Pz0/YHfuW0fxyII/AAAAAAAALqQ/gKHBdKTU8wcWJ1gzDzq_XzUk1MBEOb_sgCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h480/Dhigurah%2Bsunset.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p><br /></p>SV Perryhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16973086223410951684noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1338862963076957389.post-28712187761170396802021-03-22T22:00:00.081-05:002021-03-22T22:00:00.128-05:00I don't care what anyone says, we love the Maldives<p> </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MUeSH13Lei8/YFh4vTVKfeI/AAAAAAAALlk/EJu0qxdYPWg38A-opgPARUJ6bcA6PM1DQCPcBGAsYHg/s1134/Dolphins%2B2.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="592" data-original-width="1134" height="334" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MUeSH13Lei8/YFh4vTVKfeI/AAAAAAAALlk/EJu0qxdYPWg38A-opgPARUJ6bcA6PM1DQCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h334/Dolphins%2B2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Auto-color in Photoshop gave this a weird look, but it's better than the original, washed out underwater camera coloring.<br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Before we got to the Maldives, the few recent reports we read were <a href="https://www.noonsite.com/report/eight-weeks-cruising-the-maldives/?__cf_chl_jschl_tk__=7f0d25314252e8372f00ca79e56129554b264456-1616410777-0-AZyuTia4MavA5nDwuaOwnoV38TbMPbt-97jGbopFGPk7Uk01sKNI4vlX4_UL2aF3LctZhAf_XBw-DOvwwFiO990BvZLqx8Wu2rCPet8vFxV7MZyzMciaxC-LysN4cyW830dN_mUQKhc605-8TWsG9srnKYn43WNQMLfCkTyshDobbbZhDEko5sARf6CON9ZC-7XVkn5-AFMzplm5CHIjTJZDpGvQ0_Kc9P9SSVaQgZ2GwNyGYAQyBJneTghWN7CEqadqqZO09zmelHJVddzCVFhqcD2JNckIZKid3rLUn3PpfkNUdgsPYbXFNjya1vrY-8hyNY2YWePPYXeKH1l5fDiqthPZjLv_8VTj55KofxBHUAM18XnyXxPaMmDV6MiMvQ" target="_blank">not particularly positive</a>. 'It's expensive.' 'The coral is dead.' 'You can't go where you want.' Of course, the most recent reports were from cruising friends and acquaintances that were here in 2020, which was a bad time for everyone.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span></span></span></span></p><a name='more'></a><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"> </span></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"></span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NJl9j-hRHrk/YFh6amzlflI/AAAAAAAALmE/-QH2Hot_p9wI3pni-zqaTNl2Vfokba4IQCPcBGAsYHg/s1024/Javerne%2Band%2BPerry%2Bwith%2Bdolphins.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="646" data-original-width="1024" height="404" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NJl9j-hRHrk/YFh6amzlflI/AAAAAAAALmE/-QH2Hot_p9wI3pni-zqaTNl2Vfokba4IQCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h404/Javerne%2Band%2BPerry%2Bwith%2Bdolphins.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Dolphins! Photo credit: Michel Luthi of <i>Javerne</i></span></span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"> </span></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Likewise, Coronavirus made our visit to Sri Lanka <a href="https://www.svperry.com/2020/05/still-in-sri-lanka.html" target="_blank">much different</a> than it would otherwise have been. After being personally confined to Galle Port for over four months, having Perry's new paint job ruined by the concrete wall, and being in Galle for ten months longer than we had planned, we probably don't have the fondest possible memories of Sri Lanka, either (but we still liked it overall!).<br /></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"></span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DRHv5YRmg0U/YFh8me0tgII/AAAAAAAALmQ/Yo9kOwGZe1UUWidvBVD6u1u0gni7E0-cgCPcBGAsYHg/s2048/Dolphin%2Bjumping.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1592" data-original-width="2048" height="498" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DRHv5YRmg0U/YFh8me0tgII/AAAAAAAALmQ/Yo9kOwGZe1UUWidvBVD6u1u0gni7E0-cgCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h498/Dolphin%2Bjumping.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Another great shot from <i>Javerne</i>.</span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><br />Maybe that backdrop is the reason we love the Maldives so much. Or maybe it's the white sand beaches, clear water, and tons of fish, rays, sharks, turtles, and dolphins. It's true that most of the coral is dead and that we can't go to most of the inhabited islands, but we're having a great time anyway. Matt's been re-honing his pole-spear fishing skills. Even though his preferred spear tip rusted through and he's been using one that doesn't hold onto the speared fish quite as well, we've been well fed with fresh fish. <br /></span></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We spent a week in <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hulhumal%C3%A9" target="_blank">Hulhumale</a> and <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mal%C3%A9" target="_blank">Male</a> to stock up on fresh provisions and other sundries and wait for a package. One of my <a href="https://www.svperry.com/2019/08/the-simple-life-can-get-complicated.html" target="_blank">least favorite parts of cruising</a> is waiting for boat parts in remote places. And Hulhumale is not where we would choose to spend a lot of time. It's a nice enough city/island but the anchorage is hectic and the water is dirty (it was amazing how much growth was our bottom after just a week). We finally got our package (it took over a month to get here, but we consider ourselves lucky). Of course, Matt installed the new part and <i>it had an issue and didn't work</i>. Good thing our old one still mostly works.<br /> </span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PaQfg_MqtRY/YFiBJeGNtYI/AAAAAAAALmc/VU9HX9Wm3kg0QjL8A8nI_RLZLcM9cf0BACPcBGAsYHg/s858/Octopus%2Bscreenshot.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="484" data-original-width="858" height="362" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PaQfg_MqtRY/YFiBJeGNtYI/AAAAAAAALmc/VU9HX9Wm3kg0QjL8A8nI_RLZLcM9cf0BACPcBGAsYHg/w640-h362/Octopus%2Bscreenshot.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">This <a href="https://youtu.be/St4eI_hXVvo" target="_blank">octopus</a> reminded us of those martians/aliens on <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yip_Yips" target="_blank">Sesame Street</a><br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We high-tailed it out of the big city as soon as we could and are enjoying snorkeling and swimming again. Our friends Michel and Corinne on <i><a href="https://www.youtube.com/c/CatamaranJaverne" target="_blank">Javerne</a></i> got some great shots of the hundreds of dolphins that frequent our current anchorage and give it the nickname 'Dolphin Anchorage' (also, it's easier to remember than 'Mahaanahuraa'). We enjoyed swimming with them and were able to get much closer (10-15 feet) than normal--probably due to the fact that they are used to the dozens of boats a day that bring tourists to see them up close.<br /></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We happened across the octopus pictured above on one of our snorkeling outings. He was very curious and we got some good video of it <a href="https://youtu.be/St4eI_hXVvo" target="_blank">here</a>. Octopus seems to be a very popular meal for local fishermen and cruisers alike. Their inquisitive nature (the octopuses, not the people) is probably not helping them in the not-getting-killed department. After seeing <i><a href="https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwjcgd606cPvAhX79nMBHVr8DxMQFjAMegQIRRAD&url=https%3A%2F%2Fen.wikipedia.org%2Fwiki%2FMy_Octopus_Teacher&usg=AOvVaw2GEKa1rZjzVtIonXfLytfu" target="_blank">My Octopus Teacher</a></i>, we don't really feel like eating them, much less killing them.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"></span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-a6LRtAZt7FI/YFiDzpENg0I/AAAAAAAALmo/86PkI_jQF88GY5tEVH6U_zsAnUYpze6rwCPcBGAsYHg/s4776/Titan%2Btriggerfish.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2856" data-original-width="4776" height="382" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-a6LRtAZt7FI/YFiDzpENg0I/AAAAAAAALmo/86PkI_jQF88GY5tEVH6U_zsAnUYpze6rwCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h382/Titan%2Btriggerfish.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Mark took a picture of this Titan Triggerfish under <i>Perry</i></span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"> </span></span><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We have a lot of ground to cover to get to <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gan_(Laamu_Atoll)" target="_blank">Gan</a> in time to check out and position ourselves for our passage to <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chagos_Archipelago" target="_blank">Chagos</a> (our permit begins May 1 and we don't want to waste any of our allotted four weeks). So we keep moving south, swimming the reefs as we go. If you have ever found yourself wondering <a href="https://www.svperry.com/2018/12/what-do-you-do-all-day.html" target="_blank">what we do all day</a>, boat repair and maintenance are still high on the list (the other day Matt realigned the port engine and replaced a switch for our water maker). It's not all sunshine and the-ocean-is-our-aquarium, but we're not complaining.</span></span><br /></p>SV Perryhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16973086223410951684noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1338862963076957389.post-86564888926798417832021-02-28T21:00:00.039-06:002021-02-28T21:00:00.392-06:00$30 in a restaurant...<p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"> </span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7A0tbTl2V5M/YDjCd64hSsI/AAAAAAAALio/mAWDsyrgUZYT_LTEAIzeEKERHPNI5rKHgCPcBGAsYHg/s3948/Mark%2Bon%2Bdilapidated%2Bdock.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2706" data-original-width="3948" height="438" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7A0tbTl2V5M/YDjCd64hSsI/AAAAAAAALio/mAWDsyrgUZYT_LTEAIzeEKERHPNI5rKHgCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h438/Mark%2Bon%2Bdilapidated%2Bdock.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">The dodgy pier at the abandoned resort at Dholhiyadhoo</span></span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><br /></span></span><p></p><p><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<![endif]--></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"></span></span><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Sometimes we play a game at
dinner where we say how much we think our entree would cost if we bought it in
a restaurant in the States (have I mentioned that we don't have a <a href="https://www.svperry.com/2013/01/what-about-television.html" target="_blank">TV</a>?).
Yesterday, Matt made a lobster risotto and we threw out some numbers, then settled on 'Market
Price' because of the lobster. It was good but could have benefited from some white wine.<br /></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span></span></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span></span></span></span></p><a name='more'></a><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"></span></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"></span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NJKQxzUhXwI/YDjDkle-2kI/AAAAAAAALi8/iqREibp3lgkuNOUKAbLYDjf8GyvolCDiwCPcBGAsYHg/s3219/Over%2Bwater%2Bhuts%2Bfalling%2Bapart.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2251" data-original-width="3219" height="448" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NJKQxzUhXwI/YDjDkle-2kI/AAAAAAAALi8/iqREibp3lgkuNOUKAbLYDjf8GyvolCDiwCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h448/Over%2Bwater%2Bhuts%2Bfalling%2Bapart.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The over-water accommodations are now more 'in-water'<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><br /></span></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We have been having either <a href="https://www.svperry.com/2017/06/offerings-of-solomons-good-and-bad.html" target="_blank">fish</a>
or <a href="https://www.svperry.com/2013/03/lobster-dinner-lobster-salad-lobster.html" target="_blank">lobster</a> (with <a href="https://www.svperry.com/2013/08/p-town-heh-heh-its-called-pee-town.html" target="_blank">squid</a> thrown in every so often) almost every day since we
arrived in the Maldives: grilled fish, pan-fried fish, grilled lobster, fish
and chips, sushi (wahoo and tempura calamari), sweet and sour fish, fish
dumplings, fish salad, fish chowder (New England and Manhattan styles), udon
noodle soup with fish stock, fish tacos, ceviche, you name it. Between the two
wahoo that we caught trolling a lure and the fish and lobster that Matt has
speared, we are flush with fish. The kids keep asking for plain old pasta with
marinara sauce for dinner (and we did make pizza once), but we're making hay
while the fish sun is shining.</span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"></span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BItUqjkL2Co/YDjGKIVOcYI/AAAAAAAALjI/AL_YAiC164w6djfqDW5BmDKx2-lqiRYygCPcBGAsYHg/s3894/Dinghy%2Bon%2Bbeach.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2719" data-original-width="3894" height="446" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BItUqjkL2Co/YDjGKIVOcYI/AAAAAAAALjI/AL_YAiC164w6djfqDW5BmDKx2-lqiRYygCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h446/Dinghy%2Bon%2Bbeach.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4XhDJrnKHeY/YDjGKGsqtiI/AAAAAAAALjI/hJ9C4RHDpW05tmOYob_D-2YSzxXMTh19ACPcBGAsYHg/s3873/Conrad%2Bon%2Bpier.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2877" data-original-width="3873" height="476" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4XhDJrnKHeY/YDjGKGsqtiI/AAAAAAAALjI/hJ9C4RHDpW05tmOYob_D-2YSzxXMTh19ACPcBGAsYHg/w640-h476/Conrad%2Bon%2Bpier.jpg" width="640" /></a></div> </span><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"> </span></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Due to the COVID restrictions in place in the Maldives, we have only been to uninhabited
islands (except the abandoned resort that houses two caretakers), which has
suited us just fine. We have occupied ourselves with swimming and snorkeling.
Every now and then a fishing boat comes close enough to wave or shout a
greeting (one even gave us a lobster). Sometimes the uninhabited islands get
visits from resort boats bringing guests who want a 'private island'
experience. We have been lucky enough to spend some time with a couple other cruising boats, but here in the Maldives the cruising boats seem to spread out among the sprawling atolls.</span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"> </span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-d3bQaRKbKpc/YDjG6Q1un5I/AAAAAAAALjQ/mJPxXNH1JeEv9tRzrbmGlJC0ME0lGG6gwCPcBGAsYHg/s972/M%2Bdiving.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="598" data-original-width="972" height="394" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-d3bQaRKbKpc/YDjG6Q1un5I/AAAAAAAALjQ/mJPxXNH1JeEv9tRzrbmGlJC0ME0lGG6gwCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h394/M%2Bdiving.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">Matt going shopping for dinner</span></span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"></span></span><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">
</span></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">We will keep making our way south
and hope to stop at an island where we will reportedly be allowed to get some
fresh produce, which we're getting low on. Pie with canned peaches and fresh whipped cream will have to do as our fruit for now. In addition to fish-filled water and idyllic islands, the Maldives offers decent cell reception. Even when anchored in what looks
like the middle of nowhere, we have been able to get at least some Internet reception.</span></span><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"></span></span><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"> </span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1U3UQ3lO3Uk/YDjHRwigh5I/AAAAAAAALjY/jpxqaB8oCn8WwRHgn_PmE4pWNpZEeYTVQCPcBGAsYHg/s558/Trigger%2Bfish%2B2.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="430" data-original-width="558" height="494" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1U3UQ3lO3Uk/YDjHRwigh5I/AAAAAAAALjY/jpxqaB8oCn8WwRHgn_PmE4pWNpZEeYTVQCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h494/Trigger%2Bfish%2B2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-size: small;">Just a couple of the many, many fish here</span></span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ybGkF4N5-Wo/YDjH94KVljI/AAAAAAAALjg/Oi7o7TeLQdw0oyKa_YjObqEA6tvS3uYBgCPcBGAsYHg/s3216/Perry%2Bat%2Banchor.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2377" data-original-width="3216" height="474" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ybGkF4N5-Wo/YDjH94KVljI/AAAAAAAALjg/Oi7o7TeLQdw0oyKa_YjObqEA6tvS3uYBgCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h474/Perry%2Bat%2Banchor.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><i>Perry</i> anchored near sand-covered Hurasfaruhuraa. (Definitely a Barbara Walters soft-focus effect and NOT a scratched, fogged up lens.) </span></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><br /></span></span><p></p>SV Perryhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16973086223410951684noreply@blogger.com3