Baltimore, MD

At the National Aquarium, we were watching the dolphins frolicking together in the underwater observatory when all of a sudden one of the dolphins peed directly in front of the window, leaving a long yellow stream. The group of young adults next to us collectively groaned. "Did that dolphin just pee?" asked one woman. Her male companion said, "Yeah! I mean, that's just disrespectful. We didn't need to see that." The woman said, "Wow! I didn't know dolphins peed!" Nice to know the aquarium is meeting its objectives of educating the public.

Although the aquarium is smaller than Chicago's, it uses its space efficiently and there were a lot of interesting fish and exhibits. The archer fish feeding alone was worth the price of admission. The fish squirted water to knock down crickets that the docent suspended over the water on a stick. It was the kind of scene you only get on National Geographic television. Speaking of TV, the highlight of the aquarium for Mark was watching the various short videos that were part of the exhibits. That boy loves his TV.

We went to the aquarium on Friday evening because they offer drastically reduced admission. It allowed us to be out late enough to hear the start of the opening act for Ke$ha in the open air pavilion. The very first line sung had definite R-rated language, so we didn't linger. We were not out long enough to see the freakiness that reportedly converges on Fell's Point on weekend evenings, which was somewhat disappointing. Being big city folk ourselves, we were mildly curious about what passes for wild behavior in this neck of the woods.

Baltimore's Historic Fell's Point district, where we were anchored, is vibrant, young, and hip. We haven't seen this many joggers along the waterfront since we left Chicago. There's also a high concentration of museums around the downtown harbor. Unfortunately, most of the major museums are closed on weekdays in September. After striking out with the Science Museum and the Children's Museum, we visited the Star Spangled Banner museum. It was surprisingly interesting for a museum devoted to one specific, gigantic flag that was sewn for Fort McHenry during the War of 1812. This was the flag that inspired Francis Scott Key to write the words to the Star Spangled Banner, so I guess it's not just any old flag. Even with the uncooperative museum schedules, we had a very educational visit for our boat schooled kids.

We've also managed to knock off some boat work. We picked up our recharged engine room fire extinguisher that mysteriously discharged. Also, Matt rebuilt the water pump for our fridge. This time he had to take apart the whole thing and put it back together several times to get it pumping again and to fix a leak. Both problems were caused by the barnacles that seem to infest everything. The next time you grab some ice out of the freezer, be grateful that you don't have to worry about things swimming into your cooling system and making a home.

To a hammer, everything looks like a nail

Or, to a boat owner, every problem requires a complex solution. Matt is getting really efficient at taking things apart and fixing them. We have had a long string of these taking-apart-and-fixing episodes. So much so that when the running lights stopped working at the start of our overnight passage from NY to Cape May (NJ), Matt had the electrical switch panel cover taken out and had tested all the connections in less than 15 minutes. When nothing got the lights running again, and just before he brought out the snips to cut all the zip ties holding the wiring bundles together, he finally stepped back, thought for a second and realized that there was a separate breaker for the running lights that was off for some reason. After turning the breaker on, the lights started working. To be fair, while he was in the guts of the wiring he did find a loose connection, which could have been the original cause of the breaker tripping.

 
The trip through New York down the East River was memorable. We were shooed away from getting too close to the UN building, we passed under some of the most iconic bridges in the country, and we passed just under the gaze of the Statue of Liberty. Strangely, although we have done a few crossings in the "open ocean," some of the worst seas we have been in so far have been in rivers. The East River in NYC wasn't as bad as the Cape Fear River for us but the waves from one wake knocked over a bunch of things that have never fallen before, including an aloe plant wedged into a corner.

We blazed a trail to Cape May with strong following winds that eventually sped us to an average of 10 to 12 knots with a reef in both the mainsail and the jib. At one point in the middle of the night as we were surfing down a steep wave, Matt saw over 14 knots and the face of fear (well, there was at least a quick prayer to the autopilot gods). Just as we were leaving the city and passing Sandy Hook, a boat called us on the VHF and wanted to "buddy" with us to Cape May. They stayed mostly even until we were able to turn the corner at Atlantic City then we left them in the dust. We can really move when there is good wind. We got into Cape May at around 7:30 a.m., which was about 5 hours sooner than we had projected.

With the wind and chill, we were pretty cold overnight. It helped keep us awake but was pretty uncomfortable. It's time to dig out some warmer clothes. And it's time to head south. But after a nap and some chocolate chip pancakes and bacon, we're as good as new.

The anchorage at Cape May is much more crowded than when we were headed north. It looks like we're part of the big boat migration south. We will probably cocoon on the boat today. Tomorrow we'll catch the tide up the Delaware Bay and head through the C&D canal.

New York, NY

Arriving in New York City after spending a month in sleepy Cape Cod was a bit of a shock to our systems. Fortunately we were able to ease into it a bit by anchoring in Port Washington, which is just outside of the vortex of downtown.  Port Washington is probably the most boater-friendly anchorage we have encountered.

 

The city provides free Wi-Fi and there is a major grocery store, laundromat, hardware store, and West Marine within quick walking distance of the town dinghy dock. And bonus: Manhattan is an easy 40-minute train ride. We spent a relaxing first full day in Central Park with my parents, who drove here from Chicago to visit us, and aunt, uncle and cousins that I haven't seen in decades. The boys got to meet and spend some time with another young cousin.

 

We have visited Manhattan many times but adding live-aboard kids to the mix makes it a very different experience. We spent one very long day walking several miles and the kids held it together fairly well, only uttering, "I'm tired," a couple dozen times (believe me, that is pretty good). At one point, as we were walking along the bustling sidewalk near Times Square, Matt felt a hand brush his and instinctively grabbed it, assuming it was one of the kids. The stranger whose hand it actually was, jerked back just as Matt realized the mistake. That man is probably telling people the story of the weirdo that tried to hold his hand.

 

 

 

 

 

With all the goodies that my parents brought with them (including the most delicious marinated pork loin ever) and all the shopping we have been able to do with the use of their car, our food storage lockers are fuller than they have ever been. The only place we've been able to find some space are the shelves in Mark and Conrad's heads. I hope those wrappers are air tight to keep out the poop molecules. In any case, our boat is the place to be when the zombie apocalypse happens.

 

We're planning to leave Port Washington on Sunday to keep heading south. Hopefully we'll avoid any issues with transiting the East River while the UN is in session.  We've read that part of the river gets closed down, but we can't seem to find any schedule for when they might do it.  Apparently it's on a whim.  After Cape May and Delaware Bay, we'll be poking around the Chesapeake for a bit while we wait for the height of hurricane season to pass.

Copps Harbor (Norwalk Islands)

Mainsails R Not Us

One of the reasons we wanted to live aboard with our two kids was to seek adventure. Yesterday was one of the days that we accomplished that goal.

As we sailed from Fisher's Island (NY) towards the Thimble Islands on our trek to New York City, the winds proved the forecasters wrong once again by blowing a steady 30 to 35 knots instead of the 10 to 15 predicted. Matt tightened the mainsail halyard to try to smooth out the close-hauled sail. A few minutes later, as we sat chatting in the cockpit, the whole mainsail came crashing down and the boom landed on the hardtop. The only thing that saved our solar panels from sure destruction were the stainless steel handrails that we had installed. In addition to providing good handholds and strengthening the hard top, Matt wanted to protect the solar panels from the boom, so he intentionally designed them to sit about an inch above the panel level. I'm sure he feels pretty good about that decision now. The handrails more than paid for themselves today.

As it turns out, one of the shackles that holds the halyard onto the mainsail gave way. It was galvanized steel, which we have now replaced with a stainless steel model. No one was hurt and the mainsail came all the way down easily, landing neatly in its canvas cradle. It could have gotten stuck halfway, which could have resulted in damage to the sail. So going to all the expense of fixing the sail track to slide more easily was also a win. Okay, Patron Saint of Preventative Measures, we hear you loud and clear.

Even without the main we made pretty good time, 6 to 8 knots with just the jib and one motor due to decent wind and favorable current. We decided to bypass our intended anchorage and continue on to New Haven (CT) because of approaching thunderstorms. The Thimble Islands, while scenic, don't offer much protection from the southwest winds and some sailors have had trouble with their anchors holding. It turns out that the thunderstorm was not too bad and we got a much needed rinse.

Of course, there was still the issue of the halyard which was stuck up at the mast head. I went up the mast for the first time. As I was being winched up, Matt said, "If you're going to fall, try not to fall on me. We don't want the kids to be orphans." Thanks, honey.

After the storms last night and the passing of the front, we were hoping for a good wind day with forecasted NW winds.  Instead we motor-sailed to Copps Harbor in the Norwalk Islands. Wind forecasts: 0 for 3. We're now a day away from New York City and the kids continue to think only of pizza slices that have now morphed into slices as large as a bathtub.

Detour to Point Judith, RI

After a rolly night at anchor, we left Cuttyhunk for Block Island, which is normally an all-day sail. The winds were forecasted to be 20 knots at the high end. As we sailed along, we happily encountered the forecasted 20-knot winds. Then they crept higher. As they pushed into the high 20s with gusts into the 30s, Matt put a reef in the main sail.

The winds continued to climb, churning up the waves into short, steep breakers that reached five and six feet at times. We were no longer in the protective lee of Cape Cod. Matt put a second reef in the main when the gusts were topping 40 knots. The winds continued to climb and the apparent wind reached almost 50 knots at one point. Waves splashed over the boat, spraying saltwater on everything.

Matt decided that we should take a detour at Point Judith, rather than take a long tack and continue the 18 miles to Block Island. Although we are on our way to New York to meet my parents, there was no reason to push the boat or ourselves unnecessarily.

At first, Conrad and Mark entertained themselves by building a wind-shielding fort out of the cushions in the cabin and helping us dodge crab pots. Then they started to feel a little queasy and decided to lie down for most of the remainder of the voyage. It doesn't take long for us to revert back to landlubbers.

When we arrived at the anchorage, the port engine cut-off switch decided to stop working again. Then it spontaneously started working again. It happened yesterday too, but seemed to work fine after Matt removed the switch and cleaned the leads. It might be time for a new switch.

Happy cake day, Matt!

I don't think this lighthouse is the Edgartown is the smallest one in the U.S. but it is the smallest one we have seen. We held true to our pledge not to pay to climb any more lighthouses. It was a pretty easy decision because it just didn't seem worth it to pay $5 a person to climb the tiny tower when we have been to the top of some of the highest.  When it comes to lighthouses, size does matter, apparently.

 

 

While Matt went to the store, I hung out at the beach with the kids. It was warm and sunny as we walked into town but when we got to the shoreline, it was extremely windy. Also, the sun went behind the clouds soon after we arrived. I kept yelling at the kids not to go in the water because otherwise, they would have gone into the water. They have no sense. They act just like little kids.

 

 

We celebrated Matt's birthday with a fish dinner that Matt and Conrad caught and a carrot cake that I made. I have been known to bake things and leave out some key ingredient like baking soda, so this one turned out remarkably well, considering. Even if it hadn't worked out it wouldn't have been a tragedy, since Matt had already had a cake when we celebrated a bit early when his parents were in town. So this one was really just the icing on the...yeah.

 

We're headed back to Cuttyhunk today on our way to New York. It has been pleasant sleeping weather but too chilly and windy for our now thin blood. Where's that Indian Summer?

Oak Bluffs (Martha's Vineyard)

Today we took the bus up to Oak Bluffs. It has a real-life old-timey carousel where you try to grab the brass ring for a free ride, just like in The Catcher in the Rye. We figured we would let the kids ride it once and then we'd move on to something else. Matt paid to go on the ride because he wasn't sure the boys would be able to reach the rings. Well, we didn't have to worry about Conrad and Mark missing any rings. They had no trouble at all.

In fact, Mark got the brass ring, which was exciting but presented a bit of a dilemma because, of course, Conrad did not win a free ride. We decided to avoid a scene and paid for Conrad to ride again. Then Mark got the brass ring again. The second time, we didn't pay for Conrad to ride. This resulted in tears and recrimination because, of course, "It's not fair!" On the third ride, the girl in front of Mark got the brass ring, narrowly averting further disaster.

We visited the Back Door Bakery, which is famous for its gigantic apple fritters. It is also famous for selling hot donuts and fritters out the door to the back alley at night. I was not that excited about the fritters because although I like fried dough as much as the next person, I usually prefer to waste my calories on things like ice cream and chocolate. The apple fritter, although not hot, was the best fritter I have ever had. Matt said he could totally see how a slightly inebriated consumer buying a hot, gooey fritter in an alley at night could have a life altering religious experience. Upon seeing all the donuts that Matt bought (really only a dozen donuts and two giant fritters), Mark said, "Dad, why did you buy a lifetime supply of donuts?" 

The Campground section of town contains a packed together collection of colorful cottages, many of which  resemble fairy-tale inspired gingerbread houses. They are very charming but I would get tired of all the tourists walking by, staring and taking pictures. By the looks on some of the residents' faces, they seemed to share the sentiment.

 

Martha's Vineyard

 

Edgartown is another town packed with great restaurants, galleries and ice-cream shops on every corner, albeit with a distinctly high-end flavor. If it wasn't for the fact that even at 4:30pm every other person on the crowded street was busy shoveling ice cream down their throats, we'd wonder how all the shops managed to stay in business.  Tempted by the ice cream, but refusing to give in, Matt went into a bakery and was standing in line to buy something unhealthy and yummy for dessert. The woman in front of him tried to order a salad and the twenty-something behind the counter said, "I'm sorry, we stopped serving lunch at 4:00" It was 4:08 and all the salad and other lunch items were still sitting out. Matt thought, "Really?" to himself and walked out. He didn't feel like patronizing the shop after that nonsense.  At least he didn't pull out an M-16 like Michael Douglas.

 

This morning, Matt took some sausage out of the freezer to have with our chocolate chip pancakes. He laid it on the counter and left the galley to do something else. Not two minutes later Conrad suddenly looked up from a book he was reading and looked down into the galley. When he saw the sausage on the counter, he excitedly launched into a happy dance. I swear he has a sixth sense. He is also really excited to go to New York because of the fabled gigantic pizza-by-the slice he knows he can get there (we mentioned it once, in passing). You'd think we never feed the kid. Either that, or eating is the most exciting thing about living on a boat for these children.

 

 

After breakfast, we wanted to get some work done, so Matt decided to let Conrad fish off the back of the boat, thinking that he would be occupied for at least 20 minutes. As Matt was showing Conrad how to jig the line, he immediately caught a good sized black sea bass. Then literally about every two minutes, Conrad caught fish after fish. After he had caught about five keepers, I took over letting the various bass, porgies, and other fish go so Matt could put the last coat of teak protectant on the table in the cockpit. Mark even joined in the fun, though he has to work on his technique because a good percentage of his fish kept getting away. After we ran out of bait, Conrad put the empty hook in the water and managed to snag a sea robin. The fish worked its way off the hook, leaving a piece of its gut on the hook. With that piece of new bait, Conrad proceeded to catch a dogfish and bass. C'mon, kids, these fish aren't going to catch themselves. Oh wait, apparently they are.  Now if only they'd fillet and cook themselves into fish sandwiches.

 

Here comes the sun

Conrad and Mark practiced faces. This is "scared."
You can see more at kids.svperry.com.

After a serious boat rinsing yesterday, the sun finally came out today. Our solar panels made some ground on charging the batteries but they aren't going gangbusters like they were when we had the summer/equatorial sun.  We'll take that as our cue to start thinking about heading south.

Matt rode his bike to the propane place to fill our aluminum tank. While he was there he decided to buy a larger 20-pound tank (the kind you get for your grill) even though it is susceptible to rust, since we seem to burn through propane so fast.  With his backpack containing the smaller propane canister and the 20-pound tank strapped to the back, he was like a human bicycle bomb. He did his best not to make any sudden movements or dart into traffic. As it turns out, the second tank was not empty as we originally thought. Apparently, there is a valve in the storage area under the stove that we accidentally knocked and turned off when putting away a pan. So all the rearranging of the propane locker in the driving rain yesterday to pull out the spare stove wasn't really necessary.

While Matt did errands, Conrad, Mark and I hiked the Red Brook Pond Conservation Area. Although we didn't see any squirrels or rabbits "frolicking," we did see the cranberry bogs. Living aboard makes you appreciate these land-based moments with the kids.

We're planning to leave Bassett's tomorrow and not knowing if Martha's Vineyard has Wi-Fi for us, we may be without internet for awhile. See you on the other side.

50 shades of gray (weather)

The only other sailboat left in the anchorage.

There were a few hours of sunlight this morning, so we spent some time on the beach. We saw thousands of these periwinkles in the tidal pools on the beach. They're a delicacy in Great Britain and other places but these were so tiny it seems like you would need to be pretty desperate to snack on them. Apparently when they're sold as street food, they give you a pin to get the meat out. We also played monkey in the middle, which is a funny game when the kids can neither catch nor throw very well. 

As I'm writing this, we're on the boat enduring a 4-hour (going on 5) thunderstorm. The favorite pastime, the Lego, are in a timeout because of a refusal on the part of certain children to clean them up (ever). It's times like this when living aboard with kids becomes challenging. Instead, we are listening to the audiobook of Island of the Blue Dolphins. Conrad and Mark like it but we had to skip over the part where there was a human skeleton in a cave (Itsscary!! Idonwannalissen!!  Turnitoffnow!!). I guess I should appreciate this period of innocence while it lasts.

We also painted rocks. Now we know first hand why pet rocks became all the rage.

We first arrived at this anchorage over a month ago. Besides our week in P-Town, we have had a productive month of boat work and family visits. We were planning to leave tomorrow, wind and weather permitting, but we just ran out of propane (in both our tanks--it's a long story) and will stay an additional day to get it refilled here since it is relatively convenient. Luckily we were able to finish making dinner with the portable stove using one of the butane canisters that Matt bought on a whim thinking we shouldn't really need it.

Rain, rain, go away

Rainy day + new game from cousin Charlie = instant addiction

We have been living on the boat for over 8 months and, after 4 days of little to no sunshine, we had to for the first time turn on the generator to charge our battery bank. That's a pretty good run for our solar panels. But on the other hand, we feel like we have somehow failed.

Last night, Cousin Charlie stayed over on the boat and had sushi with us. Mark and Conrad were so excited. We had to keep telling Mark to stop touching Charlie and speaking to him very loudly inches from his face, so that Charlie could actually, you know, eat. Overnight there were strong storms.   Everyone except Mark woke because of the thunder and lightning and today it is pouring. But it is Labor Day weekend and there are some determined vacationers floating around on noodles in the water. In the rain.

Nana and Grandpa went home yesterday. We had a great visit with them. Unfortunately, they didn't get to go out for a sail because the weather and wind didn't cooperate (we did manage to get them soaked on one of the dinghy trips to the boat, though). They'll just have to come visit us somewhere sunny and warm.

In the next couple of days, we'll start heading south to visit some of Cape Cod that we missed on the way up. Then it's to the west where my parents will be meeting us in New York, and where I have an aunt, uncle, and cousins.