Wednesday, August 30, 2017

Boang to Tabar to Kavieng

Canoe race in Takuu

After Boang, we spent a few days in Tabar. The villagers were very welcoming but were somewhat used to yachts coming and bringing lots of goods.

A big yellowfin (Matt's straining under the weight)
After engaging in some trading for very welcome grapefruit, the 'askems' started snowballing. It started as some lopsided trading (the villagers got lots of much-needed and relatively pricey clothing and we got lots of inexpensive produce--mostly cheap and plentiful sweet potatoes) and ended up with outright requests for just about anything they could think of, including cigarettes and whiskey. At a delicious celebration feast/potluck, which featured music and dancing, we were somewhat inundated with requests which sort of left a bad taste in our mouths. It's hard to tell whether we are helping or not by visiting these places and participating in/ donating to the economy.

Canoe biter in Nuguria
Traditional clothing during the Takuu Book Week Celebration

Currently, we are in Kavieng. The resort we are anchored off of is relaxed and welcoming and has all manner of birds (talking and non-talking) running about the grounds. The kids are very impressed with the avian life. We may be here awhile as we wait for a new anchor chain (our old chain has badly rusted in less than half the lifespan of better quality links). In the meantime, we are enjoying a bit of civilization. Now that we have Internet, we can show you some of the pictures we have been taking in Papua New Guinea.
A fun tree in Nuguria
Fish smoking in Boang (Tanga Islands)
A pet lorikeet in Boang.  This picture is also notable for the fact that
both kids are actually wearing pants.
Giant clam--the diving has been good in PNG.
Dancing in Tabar.

Saturday, August 19, 2017

Takuu to Nuguria to Boang

Our friends on Field Trip have a knack for making connections at the villages. Sarah, an elementary teacher in her former life, visits the schools and offers help. Mark on Field Trip usually offers assistance to fix whatever needs fixing. We were lucky to piggyback on their efforts in Takuu and Nuguria. Both of these islands have been extremely welcoming and generous. At Takuu, we were the honored guests during a "Book Week" celebration where the whole village turned out to watch the school children perform modern and traditional dances and stories. In Nuguria, Conrad and Mark enjoyed helping to give a joint presentation about American culture and our boat travels to the whole school. We were inundated with gifts of lap laps (the local version of a sarong), necklaces, food, and other local items. We made new friends and got a deeper connection than we normally do when spending just a few days at a place. Both places are more Polynesian in culture and are part of the Autonomous Region of Bougainville.

Leaving Nuguria, we used a period of favorable wind to head east to the Tanga Islands. Our short overnight trip to Boang netted us a 50-lb wahoo and 60-lb yellowfin tuna. We broke our streak of Solomons doldrum fishing and actually landed both fish (and without losing a gaff!). Matt struggled a bit to fillet the fish because they were too long to fit on the transom. Boang is a more traditional Papua New Guinea Melanasian village. The villagers have been very welcoming but they don't get many cruisers that visit (only 1 boat in the last 20 years or so), so we have had a lot of canoes that want to just hang out around the boat. With no television and no Internet, we're apparently the most interesting show around for the moment. We chat with them as well as our limited Pigin and their limited English allows, but eventually we leave them to go do other things. This doesn't deter them and they simply continue to hang out around the new 'water cooler' in the area (a place to meet and chat).