Thursday, August 18, 2016

Rethinking chili as a passage dinner (Fiji to Vanuatu)

Mystery Island, pre-cruise ship

As we were leaving Fiji to head to Vanuatu, we overheard a conversation on the VHF radio between an approaching freighter and the Port Authority about a possible tsunami warning. We had cell phone service just long enough to find out that a 7.2 magnitude earthquake had hit just south of Vanuatu (the direction we were heading). We were right at the pass out of the lagoon, heading towards the ocean, which would have been a bad spot to be if a tsunami had come.

Obligatory no-pants fish picture...

Out in the open ocean, we would most likely float right over a tsunami wave without even noticing it. Similarly, a lagoon like the one we were leaving offers some protection to boats anchored well within it. As for us, we were smack in the middle of a channel with open ocean in front of us, but a rapidly shallowing bottom under the boat and reef or land on either sides. A tsunami in that spot would have been the proverbial irresistible force meeting the immovable object.
Catherine from The Southern Cross and Mark reading
the Memorial plaque in Anelghowhat
We called our friends on The Southern Cross, a few miles behind us, to make sure they knew about the situation and then decided to keep going. At 6.5 knots of motoring, we had no chance of outrunning a tsunami, and we were just as close to safety in front of us as behind. We never saw a tsunami wave (the warning was cancelled) but Perry got a good knocking around anyway, from the confused seas on top of a ten-foot swell combined with higher-than-forecasted 30 knot winds. We took a bow wave that washed into the cockpit, which has only happened once before. On the plus side, we were making good time, averaging 9 knots.


Produce for sale in Anelghowhat

The conditions remained rough for the rest of the day.  Fortunately, before we left, we pre-made chili to have for dinner underway. Unfortunately, Conrad upchucked said chili 30 minutes after eating it and didn't make it out of the main cabin (think floorboards with gaps around the edges, filled with chili remains). This was the second time Conrad couldn't keep chili down on a passage, so we should probably rethink it as a go-to meal for awhile, despite his request for more of it the next day.
This huge canoe was built to prove a point in the dispute with
New Caledonia over two nearby islands. It was never used when
the Vanuatan government decided not to press the point with France

Eventually, the wind backed around and calmed a bit. Conditions mellowed and we even caught two yellow-fin tuna. The remaining two days were pleasant, and even relatively fast. Three days after leaving Fiji, the high hills of the Vanuatan island of Aneityum greeted us and even provided a much-needed rainfall to rinse the salt from our decks.
A plane about to take off from Mystery Island. We got blasted
when the plane turned around and throttled up.

We have been resting and enjoying the sights. And doing a bit of floorboard removal and deep cleansing as well (otherwise known as Operation De-Chilify).  The people in the main village of Anelghowhat are friendly and welcoming, though in general more reserved than the native Fijians. We met some of the friends that Field Trip made during their visit here earlier this year and scored some pamplemousse, which we haven't seen since French Polynesia. 
Much of the village income comes from visiting large cruise ships. One of them is scheduled to arrive/invade this Sunday.  We are interested to see what happens to the sleepy, adjacent Mystery Island when the ship disgorges 3000 Australian "marshmallows" (a term used by a fellow cruiser to describe the cruise ship tourists: soft, plump, white and easily burned) onto its tiny shores. 
A beach goes all the way around Mystery Island
 

Tuesday, August 9, 2016

Lazy days in Port Denarau and Musket Cove

Conrad at Big Bula Water Park. Photo
courtesy of Marie-Claude Osterrath
Blog-writing on Perry is one of the casualties of being back in civilization. After spending weeks without seeing any other cruisers (other than our friends on Amelie IV), Port Denarau and Nadi were a bit of a shock to our systems. There is always something to do.


Riding the Ferris wheel at the Bula Festival in Nadi
Port Denarau offers lots of convenience to cruisers, including $1 buses to Nadi, convenient propane refills, laundry, showers, and grocery stores carrying products we hadn't seen in Fiji yet. It is also the most expensive place we have visited in Fiji. That really only means that prices are about average for a big city in North America (if you factor in the conversion rate for U.S. dollars).

The finest technology.

Mark and Conrad got to ride a really long time because
there were so few takers. Hmm, should we be on this thing?

Fire dancing at Port Denarau

Candy floss, as they call it here, as big as Mark's head.
And Mark doesn't have a small head.
We picked up some packages with boat parts and replacement phones. After hearing horror stories from other cruisers about packages containing incorrect parts or being held up in customs, it was a pleasant surprise to have everything in order. It was also a great place to be for Conrad's birthday. We visited the Big Bula Water Park with our friends on Amelie IV.

Matthew, Meghan, Mark and Conrad at Big Bula Water Park.

Double digits and one to grow on
We have been in Musket Cove for a few days. They are very cruiser-friendly and the boys have been having a great time playing with all the kids at the beach and pools here. In addition to Meghan on Amelie, we caught up with our friends on Rehua. Despite the rain, there have been a lot of opportunities to socialize, including the Island Bar. You can see a fun video on Rehua's site showing the kids playing in the pool in the pouring rain. Conrad also tried scuba-diving for the first time and he can't wait to go again.
 
Cloud Break is one of the world's top surf spots. If the rain
ever stops, we might let the boys try a tamer spot.

Partial answer to the question of what do we eat? Homemade
buns (and fries, not pictures), New Zealand beef, and crispy cheese
 chips. Yes, those are beets--so Australian/Kiwi.

What's in the hole? Back in Vukavu.

Digging in the sand never gets old.


Conrad, Mark, Aeneas, and Tyrii with coconut boats. Photo
courtesy of Audrie Vueghs.

The boats are sea worthy! Photo courtesy
of Audrie Vueghs.

Musket Cove

 
We're preparing to head out to Vanuatu within the week, if the wind and weather hold out as predicted.