Tuesday, March 26, 2019

Another year, another haul-out

Perry about to get hauled out on the Sea-lift

We're out of the water again. This time it's at Pangkor Marina and Boatyard in Malaysia and the reason is a wobbly rudder and some planned land travel to India and Nepal.

Photo credit: Dave Deakyne of Tortuguita
The Sea-Lift machine used to lift us out of the water is similar to the Roodberg machine that raised us in Darwin, but different.
 
Mr. Beh, the Sea-Lift operator, making sure everything looks good

This time around, we tried our darnedest to keep the floors from buckling while we were in the air, as they did in Darwin. Our problem is we have escape hatches that get in the way of placing the lifting arms along the strongest part of the bottom.
 
Matt jumped in the water as well

It's a bit of a trick to place the lifting arms while the boat is in the water. In Darwin, Perry actually rested on the bottom as the tide went out (which wasn't great for our nerves when the boat banged a wee bit on the concrete ramp). Here at Marina Island, we were tied to four spots on shore. This held us mostly steady.


Mr. Beh is the veteran Sea-Lift operator that has been  running the machine since it arrived at the marina almost 10 years ago. He was sensitive to our hand-wringing. He let some air out of the inflatable tubes that cover the arms, to reduce pressure on the escape hatches. He and his team were very careful about placement of the wooden support beam that was used to spread the weight across the structural parts of the boat.
 
Photo credit: Dave Deakyne of Tortuguita

It took Matt, Mr. Beh and a couple other guys in the water to get everything lined up. It didn't help that one of the pieces of timber (about 10 feet long) being used was made of some sort of heavy hardwood that was difficult to maneuver.

After all that, when we finally got lifted, we still had some floorboard buckling (this is the thin flooring that covers the structural fiberglass in the main cabin). Although the noise and flexing were disconcerting (Mark especially was very worried), everything was okay.

As it turns out, it is a good thing we dropped the rudders (although there was only play in one, we wanted to check the other as well). The starboard rudder bearing had become unglued and even though the repair will be simple, it's definitely needed. As we disassembled everything to get at the rudder bearing, we also discovered that the rudder quadrant had a crack that requires a weld and the rudder post has a small pinhole that needs to be filled to prevent corrosion. Annoying to add to the list of repairs, but better we are finding all this out now, rather than in the middle of the ocean.

Although the rudder bearing was the main reason for our haul-out, being in a boatyard always seems to lengthen the To Do list. Things are relatively cheap here in Malaysia, which might move up the timeline for some jobs. So far, we are very happy with Pangkor Marina. The staff is helpful and friendly (and they genuinely seem to enjoy themselves). It may be the Happiest Marina on Earth.

Friday, March 15, 2019

Penang and the Dump

A view of Penang from Penang Hill
We have finally made it to Penang! We had hoped to make it here for Thaipusam in late January, then Chinese New Year in early February, but kidney stones and a slew of what-nots decided otherwise.

Penang's garbage dump is our backyard right now
After finally getting our long-awaited last package, we were able to leave Langkawi and make 2 day jumps down the coast. We are anchored at the 'Dump Anchorage' (also called the McDonald's Anchorage, which is definitely better marketing but doesn't change the fact that it's still by the town's garbage dump).

Georgetown

It smells like an ashtray when the wind is blowing our way and the (lightly treated) sewage coming out of the nearby river adds to the aroma, especially at low tide. We are a bit spoiled when it comes to beautiful anchorages, so I can't say this tops the list. And if the brown water were not enough to deter us from taking a dip, there are jellyfish sporting the longest tentacles we have ever seen.

Love the street art here

Protected and shallow, it is far from the worst anchorage though and we are in a convenient spot to explore the Georgetown area of Penang. This area of Penang is a vibrant and scenic metropolis, the likes of which we haven't seen since we visited Australia. It's also a UNESCO World Heritage site, due to its unique history as a trading post throughout the ages.  There are high-rises interspersed with charming historic buildings, McDonald's (lots), Starbucks (plenty), a bike path and wonderful restaurants. We had fantastic (and cheap) dim sum the other day.
Chulia Street has these sculptures that explain local history

There are also irate drivers, motorbikes that muscle you over when you're on those bike paths, open sewers that you have to avoid stepping into at times, and other signs of urban life. The laid back vibe that we are used to has been replaced by busy city folk and pigeons.



We'll stay here for a few days on our way down to Pangkor. Matt has been having fun doing things like fixing our freezer intake that was clogged up with barnacles (after removing barnacles from the same freezer intake just six weeks ago). Also, it seems to have gotten even hotter and more humid than before, which is not helping elevate the mood on board. Besides seeing the sights (in the form of our normal heat-stroke inducing death marches), we're looking forward to the Chulia Street night market so we can try different street food.



The tram to the top of Penang Hill was surprisingly speedy
 
Pit vipers hanging around at the Snake Temple
A hornbill from back in Langkawi. None of that in Penang--just lots of crows.



This dusky leaf monkey also lives back in Langkawi