Tun Sakaran and Sipadan

Big school of jacks (tuna)

One of the highlights of the Sail Malaysia Rally is the trip to the Tun Sakaran and Sipadan Marine Parks. I had been looking forward Sipidan Island for so long that, in hindsight, it would have to be pretty incredible to live up to my expectations. Sipidan is touted as one of the top dive destinations in the world and visitors are limited to 120 a day.

White tip reef shark

We ended up having a pretty rough day of it and conditions were less than ideal. We were on the dock in Tun Sakaran at 7:30 a.m. as scheduled. It was overcast and the wind was blowing like crazy in the anchorage and there were white caps all around us. A few boat loads of divers and snorkelers had already left. We eventually found out that our boat had broken down halfway from Semporna to Tun Sakaran and another one was being sent. While we waited for the backup boat, one of the snorkeling boats returned because the boat was breaking apart from bashing into big waves. Our backup boat finally arrived, but one of its engines was not working. So we waited for boat #3 and the snorkelers (the ones that were brave enough to get on another boat) waited for their boat.

The jacks cleaning themselves on the shark's skin

Eventually, at about 10:15, our boat arrived and we left for Sipadan. After bashing into the waves, getting soaked, for about an hour and a half, we finally arrived in Sipadan. We were able to get two dives in before heading back to the anchorage.

The visibility was not great but there was an abundance of big fish, lots of fearless turtles, and nudibranchs to boot. Our first dive was very good and the second one was okay. Our choice of dive sites was likely limited by the rough sea conditions.

Overall, we enjoyed the diving but were not overwhelmed by it. Raja Ampat still tops the list of best diving for us so far. If we had had better conditions and more dives, we may have enjoyed Sipadan more, but we are very fortunate to have gotten there at all.

Passing cookies to our friends on Berserker while ESSCOM security observes.

 

Kinabatangan River

This little guy was spotted at the Rainforest Discovery Centre

Perry is a wildlife-loving group (it makes sense because we're practically wildlife ourselves). And the last few days on the Kinabatangan River has been the best wildlife viewing we have experienced since the Galapagos. Not only have we seen many creatures that we have never seen before, there are just so many animals.

Between the muddy river water and saltwater crocodiles, we won't be getting in the water here. But there is still plenty to see.

Mangrove snake--only mildly venomous. Tried to climb onto a friend's boat.

Most of the shots here are from the river, but a few are from the Rainforest Discovery Centre near Sandakan, as well as the Sun Bear Conservation Centre--like these Sun Bears.

The smallest species of bear.

We have seen orangutans on the Kinabatangan River, but they were far away. We got better pictures of a mama and baby we spotted at the Rainforest Discovery Centre (which isn't a zoo, just some trails and a canopy walk through the jungle). 

 

 

Mark on a suspension bridge at the RDC (just before he started jumping vigorously).

Three of the pygmy elephants we saw (you can't see the baby to the left).

Another pygmy elephant. They're still pretty hefty.

Proboscis monkeys abound

They jump impressive distances, crash landing into the leaves below

We still don't have a great shot of the giant alpha male nose.

Our friend Isabelle and her cat.

The proboscis monkeys freaked out when they noticed Isabelle's 4-month old kitten. To them, she is a predator and a threat (the kitten, not Isabelle).

Macaques are like pigeons here.

When macaques aren't hanging out in the trees, they're hunting for prawns along the river banks. The naughty monkeys often steal prawns (which by the way are huge here) from the fishing traps. The macaques are seemingly easy picking for the crocodiles, but we haven't seen any casualties yet.

Darter (snakebird), a diving bird called Anahinga in some places

The variety of birds is spectacular, including eight species of horn bills and the crazy looking Bornean bristlehead. It's tough to spot all the different varieties, but the jungle is filled with their songs and we get fleeting glimpses of many birds, some clad in striking colors.

Rallying

Dragon Boat racing in the Kudat Festival

We joined the Sail Malaysia rally to cruise Eastern Borneo, which has experienced security issues in past years, including a high-profile kidnapping by Abu-Sayaff terrorists. The main draw of the rally for us was the safety-in-numbers strategy, as well as ESSCOM escorts throughout the risky areas.

It is quite a change to be in the company of so many cruising boats. Other than our buddy boat Field Trip and a boat here and there, we just haven't seen that many cruising boats for a couple years. There are many activities built in to the rally--receptions, dinners, and tours. So we have been very busy lately.

One of the ESSCOM police boats

One benefit of being able to participate in rally events is exposure to tours, cultural performances, and food that we wouldn't ordinarily seek out or have access to. We were able to be part of the Dragonboat races at the Kudat Festival (although perhaps only as comedic relief for the local crowd). Many of the dinners provided to the fleet are accompanied by dancers performing in traditional attire. We had the opportunity to taste sago grubs at a local restaurant in Kota Kinabalu (of our family, I was the only one who tried them this time; once in a lifetime was good for Matt and never was a good number for the kids).

Dancers in traditional attire at the Momogun Spice Restaurant

I was a bit cranky and tired when we started traveling as a convoy, weighing anchor at first light and motor-sailing (mostly motoring) all day. We and 22 other boats are traveling together in a relatively tight pack, with at least three ESSCOM escort boats flanking us. It was mostly uneventful, but being so close keeps you on your toes and adjustments are sometimes necessary. Part of travel through these areas also requires a night security watch that rotates through the fleet. This morning, I had just gotten back to sleep after waking up at 3:30 a.m. when one of the escort boats called at 5 a.m. to do a radio check. I was planning to wake up in half an hour anyway, but that extra sleep sure would have been nice.

Mt. Kinabalu

Conrad turned 12 during the voyage to Sandakan and had a great birthday that included birthday cake, presents, a visit from some fellow cruisers, and a movie. He was a happy boy, despite being underway the whole day.

Now that we're in Sandakan, my attitude has improved. We're really looking forward to seeing the Kinabatangan River and diving in Sipadan, arguably one of the top dive destinations in the world.

Mud pools in Pulau Tiga

Sunset near Kota Kinabalu.

Rufflesia Keithii, the World's Largest Flower

Sumangkap Gong Village

Sucking up a honey pot at the Kudat Honeybee Centre

The northernmost tip of Borneo