Tun Sakaran and Sipadan

Big school of jacks (tuna)

One of the highlights of the Sail Malaysia Rally is the trip to the Tun Sakaran and Sipadan Marine Parks. I had been looking forward Sipidan Island for so long that, in hindsight, it would have to be pretty incredible to live up to my expectations. Sipidan is touted as one of the top dive destinations in the world and visitors are limited to 120 a day.

White tip reef shark

We ended up having a pretty rough day of it and conditions were less than ideal. We were on the dock in Tun Sakaran at 7:30 a.m. as scheduled. It was overcast and the wind was blowing like crazy in the anchorage and there were white caps all around us. A few boat loads of divers and snorkelers had already left. We eventually found out that our boat had broken down halfway from Semporna to Tun Sakaran and another one was being sent. While we waited for the backup boat, one of the snorkeling boats returned because the boat was breaking apart from bashing into big waves. Our backup boat finally arrived, but one of its engines was not working. So we waited for boat #3 and the snorkelers (the ones that were brave enough to get on another boat) waited for their boat.

The jacks cleaning themselves on the shark's skin

Eventually, at about 10:15, our boat arrived and we left for Sipadan. After bashing into the waves, getting soaked, for about an hour and a half, we finally arrived in Sipadan. We were able to get two dives in before heading back to the anchorage.

The visibility was not great but there was an abundance of big fish, lots of fearless turtles, and nudibranchs to boot. Our first dive was very good and the second one was okay. Our choice of dive sites was likely limited by the rough sea conditions.

Overall, we enjoyed the diving but were not overwhelmed by it. Raja Ampat still tops the list of best diving for us so far. If we had had better conditions and more dives, we may have enjoyed Sipadan more, but we are very fortunate to have gotten there at all.

Passing cookies to our friends on Berserker while ESSCOM security observes.

 

Kinabatangan River

This little guy was spotted at the Rainforest Discovery Centre

Perry is a wildlife-loving group (it makes sense because we're practically wildlife ourselves). And the last few days on the Kinabatangan River has been the best wildlife viewing we have experienced since the Galapagos. Not only have we seen many creatures that we have never seen before, there are just so many animals.

Between the muddy river water and saltwater crocodiles, we won't be getting in the water here. But there is still plenty to see.

Mangrove snake--only mildly venomous. Tried to climb onto a friend's boat.

Most of the shots here are from the river, but a few are from the Rainforest Discovery Centre near Sandakan, as well as the Sun Bear Conservation Centre--like these Sun Bears.

The smallest species of bear.

We have seen orangutans on the Kinabatangan River, but they were far away. We got better pictures of a mama and baby we spotted at the Rainforest Discovery Centre (which isn't a zoo, just some trails and a canopy walk through the jungle). 

 

 

Mark on a suspension bridge at the RDC (just before he started jumping vigorously).

Three of the pygmy elephants we saw (you can't see the baby to the left).

Another pygmy elephant. They're still pretty hefty.

Proboscis monkeys abound

They jump impressive distances, crash landing into the leaves below

We still don't have a great shot of the giant alpha male nose.

Our friend Isabelle and her cat.

The proboscis monkeys freaked out when they noticed Isabelle's 4-month old kitten. To them, she is a predator and a threat (the kitten, not Isabelle).

Macaques are like pigeons here.

When macaques aren't hanging out in the trees, they're hunting for prawns along the river banks. The naughty monkeys often steal prawns (which by the way are huge here) from the fishing traps. The macaques are seemingly easy picking for the crocodiles, but we haven't seen any casualties yet.

Darter (snakebird), a diving bird called Anahinga in some places

The variety of birds is spectacular, including eight species of horn bills and the crazy looking Bornean bristlehead. It's tough to spot all the different varieties, but the jungle is filled with their songs and we get fleeting glimpses of many birds, some clad in striking colors.

Rallying

Dragon Boat racing in the Kudat Festival

We joined the Sail Malaysia rally to cruise Eastern Borneo, which has experienced security issues in past years, including a high-profile kidnapping by Abu-Sayaff terrorists. The main draw of the rally for us was the safety-in-numbers strategy, as well as ESSCOM escorts throughout the risky areas.

It is quite a change to be in the company of so many cruising boats. Other than our buddy boat Field Trip and a boat here and there, we just haven't seen that many cruising boats for a couple years. There are many activities built in to the rally--receptions, dinners, and tours. So we have been very busy lately.

One of the ESSCOM police boats

One benefit of being able to participate in rally events is exposure to tours, cultural performances, and food that we wouldn't ordinarily seek out or have access to. We were able to be part of the Dragonboat races at the Kudat Festival (although perhaps only as comedic relief for the local crowd). Many of the dinners provided to the fleet are accompanied by dancers performing in traditional attire. We had the opportunity to taste sago grubs at a local restaurant in Kota Kinabalu (of our family, I was the only one who tried them this time; once in a lifetime was good for Matt and never was a good number for the kids).

Dancers in traditional attire at the Momogun Spice Restaurant

I was a bit cranky and tired when we started traveling as a convoy, weighing anchor at first light and motor-sailing (mostly motoring) all day. We and 22 other boats are traveling together in a relatively tight pack, with at least three ESSCOM escort boats flanking us. It was mostly uneventful, but being so close keeps you on your toes and adjustments are sometimes necessary. Part of travel through these areas also requires a night security watch that rotates through the fleet. This morning, I had just gotten back to sleep after waking up at 3:30 a.m. when one of the escort boats called at 5 a.m. to do a radio check. I was planning to wake up in half an hour anyway, but that extra sleep sure would have been nice.

Mt. Kinabalu

Conrad turned 12 during the voyage to Sandakan and had a great birthday that included birthday cake, presents, a visit from some fellow cruisers, and a movie. He was a happy boy, despite being underway the whole day.

Now that we're in Sandakan, my attitude has improved. We're really looking forward to seeing the Kinabatangan River and diving in Sipadan, arguably one of the top dive destinations in the world.

Mud pools in Pulau Tiga

Sunset near Kota Kinabalu.

Rufflesia Keithii, the World's Largest Flower

Sumangkap Gong Village

Sucking up a honey pot at the Kudat Honeybee Centre

The northernmost tip of Borneo

A Royal Birthday Celebration

His Majesty in one of his many Rolls Royces

We got up bright and early to attend the Sultan's birthday celebration. We and a few thousand other people waited around until the three Princes (the Sultan's brother) came through in their Rolls Royces (preceded by motorcycle police and trailed by special trucks with security officers sporting traditional dress).

His Majesty was the last in the parade and entered the parade grounds where there were speeches, military marching, and medals presented to the bigwigs (the hoi polloi, such as the likes of us, were not admitted to the park). There was a 21-gun salute with cannons that rattled your teeth and made babies cry.

Helicopters.

Matt stuck out in the crowd (because he's tall and Caucasian), so we got interviewed a few times and appeared in the local papers (here and here) and even the local TV station (near the end).

Girls dressed for the occasion with their lattes

The grandeur must have gone to our heads because we splurged on a sushi lunch at the top-rated restaurant in town (still pretty reasonable). Then we had high tea at the Empire Hotel. We were under-dressed for the occasion because the decision to go was last-minute. Otherwise we would have dusted off the tuxes and high heels.

Mark comporting himself as you would expect--like a crazy person.

In less hoity toity and more alarming (for us) news, we almost had a fire the other day. We were watching a family movie, when our monitor turned itself off. Matt went over to the navigation station to investigate, when a bunch of smoke started to pour out from behind it (where the wiring for various instruments and equipment lives).  He lifted the lid and saw a red hot glowing wire through the smoke.

We quickly turned off the master breaker for the boat and, when the smoke had cleared, Matt investigated. The culprit turned out to be the power wire for the router. The wire was very thin since the router doesn't pull many amps and must have developed a short. The thin wire became very hot and melted the insulation off, but because the wire was so thin, the short was still not pulling enough amps to trigger the breaker. Fortunately, only the router wiring was damaged (and a bit of the Ethernet cable it was lying against). We got a new router in Labuan, which is duty-free. This one has a shorter power cord, which we will be sure to inspect regularly.

Brunei Darussalam

Masjid (Mosque) Omar Ali Saifuddien

Despite being an oil-rich country, Brunei's capital city of Bandar Seri Begawan ("BSB"), isn't the shining Emerald City that, say, Dubai is reputed to be. It is a relatively modern city with spots of magnificence nearby (mosques, the Royal Regalia museum dedicated to the Sultan, new bridges). But the fifth richest country in the world seems conspicuously free of bling. It's also a pretty quiet place.

Kampong Ayer

Sharia Law is in effect and you are not allowed to buy or consume alcohol in public. Apparently Miri, Malaysia is where residents head for fun. The borders are reportedly clogged on pay day.

Like most of the places we have visited in Asia so far, the people are very friendly. We have been enjoying the sites around the area and will stay until the Sultan's birthday on Sunday.

Kampong Ayer (Venice of the East) is a city over the water. We have seen homes on stilts throughout the Pacific, but none as extensive or modern as this. If not for the water underneath, some of the homes resemble townhouses in US suburbia.

School on the water

We also visited the Royal Regalia Museum, a sort of shrine to all things relating to Sultan Haji Hassanal Bolkiah Mu'izzaddin Waddaulah ibn Al-Marhum Sultan Haji Omar Ali Saifuddien Sa'adul Khairi Waddien Sultan and Yang Di-Pertuan of Brunei Darussalam (the current Sultan) and his kin. You have to remove your shoes and cannot take pictures except in the lobby. His Majesty is a handsome and accomplished man who has gotten a lot of pretty cool gifts from other countries.

Soldiers practicing for the Sultan's Birthday Celebration.

The Sultan's birthday (he's 72 this year) is a big deal in Brunei. Every business has a huge banner announcing the date. The borders are closed and civil servants are required to remain in the country. The celebration parade is over early but businesses cannot open until noon.

Temburong jungle canopy walk

Keep your hands inside the boat--there are crocs!

We took a tour to Temburong National Park. From BSB, we took a speedy water taxi, car, and zippy longboat through mild rapids to the park. There we climbed to the top of the jungle canopy on a walkway (seemingly sturdy enough but disconcertingly high and exposed). Brunei hasn't had to sell logging rights so its jungles are more pristine than many in Indonesia and Malaysia. We had hoped to see proboscis monkeys but struck out (our guide thought that the woman in the group ahead of us, who for some unknown reason was howling resoundingly and extensively, may have scared them away). Maybe she was trying to call them, Tarzan-style?

Really long longboats carried us through the river.

 

The tour included a swim in a waterfall with cleaner fish. If you stay in one place any length of time, they start 'cleaning' you. Basically, they are eating bits of dead skin from your body. It doesn't really hurt but it does feel like they are biting you--because they are. I was not a big fan of the sensation and declined to stay in one spot too long (which did not include screeching and flailing--that's how I remember it).

After a delicious lunch at the Freme Rainforest Lodge, we did a fun zip line over the river. Mark and Conrad's Nana and Grandpa had already gone rain forest zip-lining a few years back, while in their 70's. Thinking back on all the places we have visited and things we have done in our five-plus years on the boat, many were trails that they had already blazed. Happy birthday (in advance), to our adventurous Nana!